[Richie Crouch]

I have briefly tested a pair of the Tenaya Masai and thought they were like a better fitting version of the Verde with a much snugger heel.

Worth trying on if you can find them somewhere close to home G.

[abarro81]

I've been using instinct lace-ups and really like them. I've not used them on grit, but they've done well on both Euro and UK lime. Notably more sensitive than the Magos. However, I wouldn't necessarily get them if you want something long lasting - the quality of the build seems fine, but I go through the rubber quicker than either the old scarpas or 5.10s

[Fultonius]

I've been using instinct lace-ups and really like them. I've not used them on grit, but they've done well on both Euro and UK lime. Notably more sensitive than the Magos. However, I wouldn't necessarily get them if you want something long lasting - the quality of the build seems fine, but I go through the rubber quicker than either the old scarpas or 5.10s

Good to know. I tried the instinct lace-ups in the shop and they fitted really well. In the end I got Magos as they were £30 cheaper. I find they fit really well, the rubber is actually pretty grippy, but I do really struggle on anything that requires sensitivity. They're just a bit "clumpy". Also, some of the toe rubber is "peeling back" which is a bit of a pain in the ass!

I think instincts might by my next weapon of choice.   

[GCW]

OK, a couple of things to look at then.

I'm quite disappointed that I even need to look elsewhere, but it's not been a one off problem. 

[webbo]

Katana lace ups.

[Dolph]

I would advise a serious look at the Tenaya Masai, I know I would say that as I'm sponsored by them, but they really did win me over when I was testing them out. They edge way better and the heel is very snug. They might feel stiff and clumsy at first but after they are worn in they climb really well, i can do anything in them that i can do in my old 5.10 Velcros (and yes i have tested). If i was totally honest the feel on slopey holds is different because the rubber is different, they are just as grippy but they dont tend to creep slowly like the Stealth, the creep is much faster. I had worn 5.10 boots for years and found them great but I had loads of problems with stiching and glue coming away, eye holes pulling and the rubber going through fast etc. I have found no problems with the Tenayas and found they literally last twice as long. I'm only on my second pair and I ware them all the time!

I do sometimes use a 5.10 Dragon but that is only because Tenaya have not sorted a down point shoe out. But they are working on one and I'm looking forward to seeing it.

[nash1]

Sportivas are the way forward, pricey but worth it. A two boot quiver of Miura Velcros and Solutions is perfect for pretty much everything, and they don't smell either which is nice...

[Paul B]

Adidas buys Fiveten errr, I'm not really sure how I feel about that.

[north_country_boy]

they are just as grippy but they dont tend to creep slowly like the Stealth, the creep is much faster.

I'm no scientist but that sounds to me as if they aren't as 'grippy'? 

[Fultonius]

they are just as grippy but they dont tend to creep slowly like the Stealth, the creep is much faster.

I'm no scientist but that sounds to me as if they aren't as 'grippy'? 

I think you'll find they're just as grippy, as long as you have the ability to slow time down.... 

[lagerstarfish]

they are just as grippy but they dont tend to creep slowly like the Stealth, the creep is much faster.

I'm no scientist but that sounds to me as if they aren't as 'grippy'? 

As Yoda says

grip or grip not, there is no try

I'd be interested in letting someone else quantify Creep - you know, what angle, how fast, what temp

[Johnny Brown]

I've had a few pairs of Tenayas for years since they first got imported by Lyon. The rubber is harder than stealth, so not as sticky on natural smears, but better on quarried edges. It may be better on limestone but I'm not convinced rubber is so critical on lime. Build quality is good, and the uppers don't stretch at all in my experience, so maybe buy them a bit bigger than 5.10. Soles were a bit on the thick side, I ended up carving the edges down with a knife. Only boots I've ever climbed 8a in though.

[GCW]

There can be no higher recommendation than that, JB!

[Johnny Brown]

Though the only boots I've climbed 8A, E7 etc in were Anasazis. And I've never had any Blancos which I suspect would do anything Masais would do, and better.

[GCW]

Worth a look though, so I'll look into them.

[TonyS]

Hi JB,
 
Tenaya has swaped hands (management buyout of sorts) since they were brought in by Lyon and they now only use Vibram rubber.  The sole thickness of which is 4mm.

Worn them a lot since I started working them and have not noticed the sole being thinker than any other shoes I have worn / worked with.

GCW,

There are not that many stockist in the UK as yet but I have been speaking to quite a few who say they want to come on board.  Crag X , Derby CC, Climbers shop, Newcastle CC, so if any of those are near you ask when they anticipate getting them in.  Hope that helps

T

[Paul B]

The guy from cragx was testing a blue pair at the Foundry the other night, I made him aware of the interest on this thread and others that tried the shoes on seemed fairly impressed.

[GCW]

Thanks Tony, very helpful.

[Johnny Brown]

The rubber on mine is vibram too - the comments above stand. Maybe the soles weren't any thicker on mine, but the edges were oversized and needed taking back a bit. IE 5.10s are like buying a sportscar, getting these to perform is more like souping up a Nova.

[Paul B]

Maybe not the Verde's but certainly these:



have something Blanco about them...

If the Matador is too sharp and the Corona too soft for you, check out the new Habarero Lace. Thanks to the inspiration of Markus Bock, one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, we developed this high end shoe for (almost) everyone.

That's amazing, because Markus focused on the crucial features that helped him climb his hardest Frankenjura projects. Given a straight last shape, your foot-power is pooled to the big toe and the strong mid-sole supports extra traction for nasty Frankenjura pockets. The speed-lace is incredibly comfortable, while super sensitive and precise footwork doesn´t lag a step behind.


As for a good high end shoe, the profiled bonus toe rubber is a must-have and a guarantee for pain-free super-tech toe-hooks. The lo-stretch synthetic upper will prevent the shoe from growing and the leather inner sole will stop the wicked side effect of odour contamination typical for synthetic shoes.

So, as mentioned, with these features the Habanero Lace is not only suitable for high end climbing but also brings great fun for climbs beyond the 7th grade.

[abarro81]

Heason has them and think he quite likes them for when you want something really stiff

[Johnny Brown]

I wouldn't buy anything that doesn't lace right down to the toe. That's the whole point of laces for me - changing the size of the toe box.

[Ru]

As for a good high end shoe, the profiled bonus toe rubber is a must-have and a guarantee for pain-free super-tech toe-hooks.

Is a super-tech toe-hook a toe hook?