[GCW]

I've used Anasazi Pinks for years, then swapped over to the Verdes when 5.10 changed things.  I've always liked them, but the durability of my last few pairs of Verdes has been pretty crappy- the upper tends to fall to bits pretty disappointingly.  It wasn't as much of an issue when I could get them for 60 quid, but now they are £100 I'm loathed to spend that much for something of poor build quality.

I still have the Boosters and Dragons for other use but want something less aggressive for grit etc.  I'm a bit out of touch, so any recommendations for an Anasazi Pink-like boot are well appreciated.  Obviously I know fitting is important etc, but which boots should I be looking at?

[galpinos]

Whites?

[Steve R]

Might be worth looking at these if you can find a place to try on (size same as 5:10s)?  Same vibram rubber as Sportiva shoes.  Impressed with build quality.
 http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/tenaya-masai-p-1203.html
 I've got a pair of these and a pair of  'inti' s - the velcro ones.  Feel similar (but better imo) to anasazi velcros for good allroundederness....  Early days but I can't really fault them so far.

[GCW]

Whites?

I did think that, but are they any less likely to drop to bits?

[Paul B]

No I don't think so and although they perform admirably on grit I wouldn't pick them as a first choice.

My last pair lasted shockingly. As my feet swelled up (it was hot in France) all of the glue holding the rubber onto the upper gave up leaving me with a painful boot that twisted uncontrollably. They're still the best UK limestone shoe (IMO).

[cofe]

Although they're now almost trashed, after about 2 1/2 years, I think my first pair of whites are the best shoes I've owned (and I love Pinks). Note that 95% of my climbing is on grit. I'm now trying to break a second pair in, while hoping my first pair last a little longer.

[GCW]

My last pair lasted shockingly. As my feet swelled up (it was hot in France) all of the glue holding the rubber onto the upper gave up leaving me with a painful boot that twisted uncontrollably.

I had the same thing.  I bought a fresh pair of Verdes, the first time I wore them half the toe box came away.

Sounds like you've done OK Cofe, I've had 3 pairs of Verdes now and they've all been the same.

[Paul B]

My recent pair won't even make a year (and its not the rubber thats in the worst state, the uppers are mauled), in fact I'd doubt if they've lasted 6 months (I started wearing them when the limestone dried out).

[cofe]

I've heard worse things about the greens to be honest, which is why I've avoided them, even though in principle they sound spot on. I'm just hoping these new whites will be good, so I don't have to fork out again. I don't really know what the other alternatives might be.

[John Gillott]

Might be worth looking at these if you can find a place to try on (size same as 5:10s)?  Same vibram rubber as Sportiva shoes.  Impressed with build quality.
 http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/tenaya-masai-p-1203.html
 I've got a pair of these and a pair of  'inti' s - the velcro ones.  Feel similar (but better imo) to anasazi velcros for good allroundederness....  Early days but I can't really fault them so far.

Anyone else got any views on these (and for that matter where it might be possible to try a pair on in either London or Sheffield - a quick search of the usual suspects hasn't come up with anything)? I like the sound of a smaller heel cup on a shoe very similar to a lace up anasazi.

[lagerstarfish]

I scored a couple of pairs of unused pinks off ebay a couple of months ago - worth having a flick through every now and then just in case

[Grubes]

Might be worth looking at these if you can find a place to try on (size same as 5:10s)?  Same vibram rubber as Sportiva shoes.  Impressed with build quality.
 http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/tenaya-masai-p-1203.html
 I've got a pair of these and a pair of  'inti' s - the velcro ones.  Feel similar (but better imo) to anasazi velcros for good allroundederness....  Early days but I can't really fault them so far.

Anyone else got any views on these (and for that matter where it might be possible to try a pair on in either London or Sheffield - a quick search of the usual suspects hasn't come up with anything)? I like the sound of a smaller heel cup on a shoe very similar to a lace up anasazi.

they sell tenaya shoes at rokt in Brighouse (near Huddersfield) I know Nik at work bought a pair to try out. I think hes in font at min so doubt he can give his opinion

[GCW]

Ah, I shall question said Hairy Dwarf upon his return.

[yorkshireman]

was in the same boat a few years back,years of 5.10 pinks,didnt get on with verdes and had become used to a flat non aggressive boot-tried boosters(too aggressive),verdes(hate onyx rubber),velcros(same with the rubber) and ended up with some scarpa vapour lace ups which are really good boots and can be used as a good all round boot,comfy and pretty wide fitting and dont stretch too much.i also have a pair of instinct lace ups which work really well in font and outside and some instinct slippers which have the best toe of any boot ive ever used but the heel is too soft.i love the scarpa instinct and vapour boots,not too aggressive,comfy and about the cheapest of the top shoes.hope it helps you 

[shark]

Whites?

I did think that, but are they any less likely to drop to bits?

I've had a few pairs and they been durable. What I don't like is how quickly they lose the lateral toe stiffness at which point they start to feel like Verdes so not a problem for you.

[Jim]

love my verdes, tried to try on some white a while ago but couldn't get them on properly due to my bunion. Velcro's at decathlon are £80
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/climbing-shoes-slippers-clothing-sports.html

[Fultonius]

Whites?

I did think that, but are they any less likely to drop to bits?

I've had a few pairs and they been durable. What I don't like is how quickly they lose the lateral toe stiffness at which point they start to feel like Verdes so not a problem for you.

True - they're great for sensitive little edges and dinks for about....2 weeks!  The worst thing is, that the sizing is so hit and miss that I've ended up with a pair of boats!  Partly my own fault for not trying 15 pairs on... I want a pair that feels like brand new blancos , but for at least a few months...

In fact, now I'm started - the lateral stiffness has got so bad on my last 2 pairs that I have genuinely struggled to stay on some pretty big footholds. First the edge of the shoe feels like it's bending, melting and rolling off the holds, then my foot starts to move ever so slightly in the shoe and finally BAM I'm off!

I actually think that might be the last pair of whites I buy...

[Muenchener]

Might be worth looking at these if you can find a place to try on (size same as 5:10s)?  Same vibram rubber as Sportiva shoes.  Impressed with build quality.
 http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/tenaya-masai-p-1203.html
 I've got a pair of these and a pair of  'inti' s - the velcro ones.  Feel similar (but better imo) to anasazi velcros for good allroundederness....  Early days but I can't really fault them so far.

Anyone else got any views on these (and for that matter where it might be possible to try a pair on in either London or Sheffield - a quick search of the usual suspects hasn't come up with anything)? I like the sound of a smaller heel cup on a shoe very similar to a lace up anasazi.

I can comment on the durability as my wife has a pair. She bought them as her first ever rock shoes over two years ago. They survived about a year and a half of beginner footwork before needing a resole, and resoled they are still going strong, so build quality seems to be just fine. I can't say anything about performance.

[Gritlad]

anyone have any thoughts on evolv shoes for the grit??

[nik at work]

Fear not intrepid boot purchasers, via the wonders of interwebology I can communicate with you across GREAT distances with my thoughts on Tenaya bootage.
The fit to me feels very much like an old 5.10 pink but a bit stiffer. I think this stiffness is down to the thicker rubber, which is, well, thicker. They seem to fit fine and the rubber appears to be reasonably sticky (I'd say probably not 5.10 sticky but not awful either). They seem relatively hard wearing also.
Having said that I still put on my worn in dragons as boot of choice, for me the rubber on the Tenaya's is just a bit too thick and they feel a bit clumsy and lack precision. I use them predominately indoor and they are fine. The heel is certainly neater than the Verde, but not as fly as the Dragon. Some would describe it as somewhere between the two.
Overall not a bad boot I'd say they seem well put together and pretty tough (and are quite a lot cheaper than 5.10), my main gripe is the lack of sensitivity but as you are so tall you can barely see your feet let alone sense what they are doing that shouldn't be an issue...

[robertostallioni]

and they feel a bit clumsy and lack precision.

Yes, thats exactly what they looked like. 

Cheaper than Solutions though if there's a nail to be knocked in. 

You back for Sunday worship at Chapel?

[andy_e]

Pontas lace-up?

[wiain]

Anyone else got any views on these (and for that matter where it might be possible to try a pair on in either London or Sheffield - a quick search of the usual suspects hasn't come up with anything)? I like the sound of a smaller heel cup on a shoe very similar to a lace up anasazi.

I have a pair on test that are half-way broken in and I've been moderately impressed. They were praps a bit insensitive at first but then so were all the new Anasazis I've had until they broke in a bit.

As far as I know noone in the Sheffield area stocks them yet but CragX were seriously considering it so that may change.

[Wipey Why]

I had a similar problem with the Greens. They were lovely fresh out of the box and would proceed to get softer and softer. After a few pairs of them I swapped to Miura Velcros. They seem to be more hard wearing and a pretty good all round shoe. 

[ShortRound]

Another vote for the Scarpa Instinct lace ups. They look fairly aggressive but are surprisingly comfortable. Definitely worth trying some on at least.

I'd advise against the evolv pontas lace ups. The rubber on the end of the toe is really thin and I kicked through two pairs in the space of 6months. This may say more about my footwork than the boot but I've not destroyed either my instincts or vapour velcros in twice that time.

[Richie Crouch]

I have briefly tested a pair of the Tenaya Masai and thought they were like a better fitting version of the Verde with a much snugger heel.

Worth trying on if you can find them somewhere close to home G.

[abarro81]

I've been using instinct lace-ups and really like them. I've not used them on grit, but they've done well on both Euro and UK lime. Notably more sensitive than the Magos. However, I wouldn't necessarily get them if you want something long lasting - the quality of the build seems fine, but I go through the rubber quicker than either the old scarpas or 5.10s

[Fultonius]

I've been using instinct lace-ups and really like them. I've not used them on grit, but they've done well on both Euro and UK lime. Notably more sensitive than the Magos. However, I wouldn't necessarily get them if you want something long lasting - the quality of the build seems fine, but I go through the rubber quicker than either the old scarpas or 5.10s

Good to know. I tried the instinct lace-ups in the shop and they fitted really well. In the end I got Magos as they were £30 cheaper. I find they fit really well, the rubber is actually pretty grippy, but I do really struggle on anything that requires sensitivity. They're just a bit "clumpy". Also, some of the toe rubber is "peeling back" which is a bit of a pain in the ass!

I think instincts might by my next weapon of choice.   

[GCW]

OK, a couple of things to look at then.

I'm quite disappointed that I even need to look elsewhere, but it's not been a one off problem. 

[webbo]

Katana lace ups.

[Dolph]

I would advise a serious look at the Tenaya Masai, I know I would say that as I'm sponsored by them, but they really did win me over when I was testing them out. They edge way better and the heel is very snug. They might feel stiff and clumsy at first but after they are worn in they climb really well, i can do anything in them that i can do in my old 5.10 Velcros (and yes i have tested). If i was totally honest the feel on slopey holds is different because the rubber is different, they are just as grippy but they dont tend to creep slowly like the Stealth, the creep is much faster. I had worn 5.10 boots for years and found them great but I had loads of problems with stiching and glue coming away, eye holes pulling and the rubber going through fast etc. I have found no problems with the Tenayas and found they literally last twice as long. I'm only on my second pair and I ware them all the time!

I do sometimes use a 5.10 Dragon but that is only because Tenaya have not sorted a down point shoe out. But they are working on one and I'm looking forward to seeing it.

[nash1]

Sportivas are the way forward, pricey but worth it. A two boot quiver of Miura Velcros and Solutions is perfect for pretty much everything, and they don't smell either which is nice...

[Paul B]

Adidas buys Fiveten errr, I'm not really sure how I feel about that.

[north_country_boy]

they are just as grippy but they dont tend to creep slowly like the Stealth, the creep is much faster.

I'm no scientist but that sounds to me as if they aren't as 'grippy'? 

[Fultonius]

they are just as grippy but they dont tend to creep slowly like the Stealth, the creep is much faster.

I'm no scientist but that sounds to me as if they aren't as 'grippy'? 

I think you'll find they're just as grippy, as long as you have the ability to slow time down.... 

[lagerstarfish]

they are just as grippy but they dont tend to creep slowly like the Stealth, the creep is much faster.

I'm no scientist but that sounds to me as if they aren't as 'grippy'? 

As Yoda says

grip or grip not, there is no try

I'd be interested in letting someone else quantify Creep - you know, what angle, how fast, what temp

[Johnny Brown]

I've had a few pairs of Tenayas for years since they first got imported by Lyon. The rubber is harder than stealth, so not as sticky on natural smears, but better on quarried edges. It may be better on limestone but I'm not convinced rubber is so critical on lime. Build quality is good, and the uppers don't stretch at all in my experience, so maybe buy them a bit bigger than 5.10. Soles were a bit on the thick side, I ended up carving the edges down with a knife. Only boots I've ever climbed 8a in though.

[GCW]

There can be no higher recommendation than that, JB!

[Johnny Brown]

Though the only boots I've climbed 8A, E7 etc in were Anasazis. And I've never had any Blancos which I suspect would do anything Masais would do, and better.

[GCW]

Worth a look though, so I'll look into them.

[TonyS]

Hi JB,
 
Tenaya has swaped hands (management buyout of sorts) since they were brought in by Lyon and they now only use Vibram rubber.  The sole thickness of which is 4mm.

Worn them a lot since I started working them and have not noticed the sole being thinker than any other shoes I have worn / worked with.

GCW,

There are not that many stockist in the UK as yet but I have been speaking to quite a few who say they want to come on board.  Crag X , Derby CC, Climbers shop, Newcastle CC, so if any of those are near you ask when they anticipate getting them in.  Hope that helps

T

[Paul B]

The guy from cragx was testing a blue pair at the Foundry the other night, I made him aware of the interest on this thread and others that tried the shoes on seemed fairly impressed.

[GCW]

Thanks Tony, very helpful.

[Johnny Brown]

The rubber on mine is vibram too - the comments above stand. Maybe the soles weren't any thicker on mine, but the edges were oversized and needed taking back a bit. IE 5.10s are like buying a sportscar, getting these to perform is more like souping up a Nova.

[Paul B]

Maybe not the Verde's but certainly these:



have something Blanco about them...

If the Matador is too sharp and the Corona too soft for you, check out the new Habarero Lace. Thanks to the inspiration of Markus Bock, one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, we developed this high end shoe for (almost) everyone.

That's amazing, because Markus focused on the crucial features that helped him climb his hardest Frankenjura projects. Given a straight last shape, your foot-power is pooled to the big toe and the strong mid-sole supports extra traction for nasty Frankenjura pockets. The speed-lace is incredibly comfortable, while super sensitive and precise footwork doesn´t lag a step behind.


As for a good high end shoe, the profiled bonus toe rubber is a must-have and a guarantee for pain-free super-tech toe-hooks. The lo-stretch synthetic upper will prevent the shoe from growing and the leather inner sole will stop the wicked side effect of odour contamination typical for synthetic shoes.

So, as mentioned, with these features the Habanero Lace is not only suitable for high end climbing but also brings great fun for climbs beyond the 7th grade.

[abarro81]

Heason has them and think he quite likes them for when you want something really stiff

[Johnny Brown]

I wouldn't buy anything that doesn't lace right down to the toe. That's the whole point of laces for me - changing the size of the toe box.

[Ru]

As for a good high end shoe, the profiled bonus toe rubber is a must-have and a guarantee for pain-free super-tech toe-hooks.

Is a super-tech toe-hook a toe hook?