[cha1n]

Hey

I did Entorse a few days ago but went to the chalked hold slightly left rather than straight up. Has anyone done both ways, does it effect the grade much? I didn't find it very hard, probably had around 5 attempts.

I was pretty disappointed to find it that it was  7A+ instead of 7B like it gets in my guidebook. Luckily, I did Smash at Roche aux Sabot so I still did my first 7B ever (even if it is a dyno!)..

[a dense loner]

unfortunately entorse is one of them annoying desperate for the small, easy for the tall probs. for entorse i'd realistically say font 6b+ , maybe 6c if i was in a giving mood, for those people that are 6ft or over since the only climbing involved on it is the mantle. i don't know about any holds to the left on the topout so can't really comment

[cha1n]

I found a picture.

I did it like so:



Funny, because I found the setup moves harder than the jump because I was matching the arete to move my right hand up and that was quite balancy.

Like I said, it felt easy but then so did Smash and that took about 5 attempts too and everyone seemed adamant that Smash was solid 7B so who am I to dispute a grade I've never achieved (or attempted) before!

[ghisino]

I was pretty disappointed to find it that it was  7A+ instead of 7B like it gets in my guidebook.

given this statetment i'd suggest you ask the same question on bleau.info 


btw, i'd call it a valid ascent (and an eliminant saying you have to go straight up would be silly unless climbed as a game)

[a dense loner]

yeh thats not an eliminate, i was struggling to picture a hold somewhere out left.... thats just the top of the boulder. did you do the arete on its other side? good value for 7a

[cha1n]

Ah, OK. It's just all the youtube videos I could find of people climbing it were going above their head to the sloper whereas it seemed logical to go to the left hold to me.

Never tried the other arete unfortunately as I was sort of having an easy day but watching a few people on Entorse got me interested because the start looked balancy and after doing Smash the day before, the 'dyno' looked more like a 'pop' to me!

[dave]

I seem to remember the arete on tother side being a path compared to entorse.

[a dense loner]

same old story i'm afraid dave. theres only one tricky move on it n guess what, its just out of reach for the average guy