[roberth]

I am getting to font 6a using technique and determination, but I want to get to the next level. I have found "9/10 climbers" and "Bounce" very inspirational, and think I can improve even though I am nearly 43. I Thought I would post and record my goals, using the method from "59 Seconds", and see what people think:

Goal: I want to climb Font 7a by May 1st 2012.

I can do this by improving a number of factors:
1. I want to reduce my weight from 87kg to 80Kg, which will be about 8% body fat. I can do this because I got to 83kg before, and I have enough fat to get rid of. I will use the myfitnesspal app, monitor my weight once per week, and create food rules to help improve what I eat.
2. I want to improve my climbing power by 100% from my current level (5 pull ups etc). I can do this because I am fairly weak as a climber, and know good techniques to improve. I will use a pull up bar to improve pull ups, lockoffs and L hangs, using extra weights on a harness.
3. I want to increase my finger strength by 100% from my current level (15 seconds on large edge etc). I can do this because I used to have stronger fingers, and know how to get better. I will use my fingerboard at least once per week, and will choose fingery problems at the climbing wall.
4. I want to improve my climbing effectiveness to 7a. I can do this because I have been climbing 10 years and have the potential to climb much better. I will train at the climbing wall more often (4 times a week rather than 2 times), and will expect to "fail" during training, pushing myself out of my comfort zone.

I have created sub goals for each task for 1st December and 1st February, and written in some rewards for each step, including getting a new road bike if I manage to get to Font 7a.

The benefits of achieving my goal would be:
1. A real sense of achievement, which I got when I managed to climb La Marie Rose (Font 6a)
2. A healthier stronger body
3. More choice of climbs at walls and outside

All thoughts and comments welcome, and I will try to post with my progress.

[slackline]

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[Oldmanmatt]

Rob, I'm 41...
I had a 7 year layoff of hard climbing. I started up again after introducing my (then) 4 year old to the noble art (or should that be knobble), 2 years ago. I train 3 times a week (although the Friday sesh is mainly with the kids)...
I started serious training a year ago and I've reached a point where I'm pushing F7a+ and falling off F7b... I'm pretty sure I'll be able to crack F7c before age gets me! I lost 10kg, just be adjusting my diet and starting the training. I'm actually climbing better now than I was in my early 20's. Just don't hit the training too hard, build it up slowly. Injury is to be avoided, by us seniors...

[mr__j5]

Well I am 39, can only do about 5 pull-ups, hang a board edge for about 15s and only climb twice a week, but this year I climbed by first 7a's on grit, limestone and at font.

On average though, I'd call myself a 6b+ climber.

So it must be possible to achieve.
Just by dropping the weight will increase all the other factors.

[erm, sam]

Two thoughts:
Don't expect your finger strenght to increase as quickly or a linearly as your arm strength will. Be flexible on the targets if anything gets tweaky.

Also, if you are psyched to climb Font 7a so you can have a new road bike you are doing the wrong sport!

[Nibile]

yes, you can.
build it up slowly, avoid injury is a primary rule: if you're injured you can't improve.
remember that tendos are many weeks behind muscles in terms of strength gains, so be wise and give them time.
go climb outdoor a lot: if you start training and increase your climbing time as much as you can, you'll tick 7a sooner than you think, but try as many 7a's as you find. you'll be surprised how big a difference can make a problem that suits your strong points.
last but not least:
WELCOME TO YOUR PERSONAL NIGHTMARE.
you are in good company.
 

[Big Dave]

Good luck achieving your goal, take it one step at a time, 6a to 7a is a big jump but no reason you can't do this in 6 months if you get out there climbing regularly.

[Big Dave]

...also, if you're after that elusive 7a tick, then there are some problems that tend to be easier than others at that grade.

[webbo]

I'm older than anyone else whos posted and my advice is to give up now because no matter what grade you climb it will never be enough.Save yourself from pain,frustration and chronic injuries.
I would try chronic alcholism as its probably less harmful to your body.

[a dense loner]

word on the street is you are trying chronic alcoholism webbo

a few people have said this because its the best advice you can get, don't get injured. steady is not the same as slow

[tomtom]

Wow, a nearly postive comment from Dense.... he must have found a fiver on the way home... 

Of course you can given time... but it wont happen overnight.. if you want to be grade focussed then I would pick a 7A that plays to your strenghts - whether that be lank, strength, cunning, jumping ability or some other advantage - work it - it may take 5-10 visits.. get the tick, then work sideways at other 7A's until you've got a few then step up...

I worked through these grades in a very focussed way at the Cliff, by picking off Belly Slap (6C+ - now given 7A) then Crux low trav (7A - easy) then Demon Wall Roof (7A+) in that order.. over the space of 12-18 months... but I didnt spend a year workign on 3 problems alone, in the meantime started to snaffle a few other 7's high 6's etc..

But now I am a chronic alcoholic. So Webbo has a point, you could cut out the middle man and head to the pub instead

[tc]

I was a chronic alcoholic. Now I'm old, like Webbo. What was the question again?

[a dense loner]

i'm positive in the right places i don't give praise at the drop of a hat like most people for things that shouldn't be praised. i don't wad people cos they've found the ability to walk upright and have opposable thumbs. if someones a wanker i will point this out, if somone bores me i will point this out, and if someone lies about problems they've done i'll point this out. can anyone see any form of pattern emerging?
apart from me being a wanker i mean...

[Pebblespanker]

Robert it can be done but heed the sage advice and go steady. I'm 48 and have managed to literally claw my way up to 6c+ after a 10 year layoff doing nowt much but slob on the sofa, drink,    and eat pies. If I can do it you most certianly CAN do it dude but at our advanced age you need to be mindful that the body is a bit slower to respond than that of a young fella - well mine is and the other half certainly says it takes longer to react lol! I have a 7A project in Scotland I am near to finishing just need to link all the moves ...   

One bit of advice I feel comfy giving is be fecking careful on the wall with fingery problems - most of my issues have come from tweaky plastic not rock - try to avoid the climbing wall 'lurch' type approach to movement, wierd finger positions and go for the 'styling' like a smooth frenchman approach - good smooth style should help avoid some potential injuries; lurching and shock loading aging tendons and joints is really asking for it when pushing grades. Also be careful on the board, when doing maximal hangs I always load my fingers gently never suddenly. Climbing outside is deffo the best bet as is the sound advice about find a problem that suits your strengths

Also bear in mind I have a tweaky left ring finger mid joint thanks to not doing the above and leaping about like a geriatric monkey on crystal meth! 

[i.munro]

Found myself in a similar situation after a few years of minimal climbing to do a Phd & decided I was going to try give myself a 7A as a 50th birthday.
Well it arrived but about 18 months late (still haven't managed a second though).

I'd add to what's been said. Pick something that you don't need a spotter to work on. You need to be able to get on there whenever you're free & conditions are good.