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the etiquette of bouldering (Read 5337 times)

iwasmexican

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the etiquette of bouldering
October 21, 2011, 09:03:51 pm
so today and yesterday i had two rather annoying things happen to me:

one was trying world line at queens crag, just as we got there it started drizzling but luckily most of the holds on it stayed dry enough to climb it, and eventually i got through the roof and past the difficult climbing to the easy top out, but as i hit the very last hold before mantelling on a massive foothold it turned out to be completely sodden and i fell off. should i take the tick?

and the next day we went to kyloe, and ended up trying cubbys lip, and eventually again i got past all the hard climbing and just had to cut loose to swing my feet around to the massive footholds that basically represent the finish, but i managed to dab ever so slightly on the way over, and completed the problem.

now in both of these cases i have no doubt in my mind that i could have completed them if neither of these things had happened, but should i still take the tick?

Duma

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#1 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 21, 2011, 09:10:45 pm
You're clearly worried about them, so no. Whether you're sure you could have done them is irrelavent.

grimer

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#2 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 21, 2011, 09:11:48 pm
Yes, but just don't tell enyone what happened.

iwasmexican

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#3 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 21, 2011, 09:23:26 pm
You're clearly worried about them, so no. Whether you're sure you could have done them is irrelavent.

i fucking hate climbing sometimes :)

Duma

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#4 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 21, 2011, 09:36:10 pm
Why? Great problems, and now you get to do them again!

yorkshireman

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#5 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 21, 2011, 10:34:00 pm
i fell off the same place on cubbies and did it next go so dont worry you will do it next time.i personally am my own worse critic so any slight dab and i will do the problem again regardless what others think.end of the day fella it what you are happy with not what others think ;)

Percy B

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#6 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 21, 2011, 10:43:32 pm
Its your choice - I did Brad Pitt on new years eve about 5 or 6 years ago after many, many years of failed attempts. However, the inch of powder snow on top of the boulder meant that I blew the top-out, even though the hard climbing is over. Am I bitter - yes. Do I take the tick - no. Have I ever been back on it to finish it off properly - no. Do I care - no. Its a shit problem anyway..... ;)

fried

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#7 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 22, 2011, 07:58:36 am
Reminds me of a mate, who when ever he saw a pretty girl in the street, would cover his eyes for a few seconds, then say "done 'er"  :P

andyd

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#8 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 22, 2011, 08:52:08 am
I popped off the jug at the top of fight on black at widdop. It was wet/icy. It's not ticked.you won't feel good about it until you get it clean.
Duma's got the right idea.

Pebblespanker

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#9 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 28, 2011, 01:21:59 pm
The Purists View

Dab = no tick
Failure to top out where the problem goes to the top = No tick

I reality its your choice but like the guys say if you are questioning the ascents then you already know the answer. Didn't we had a dab thread on here at some point including some folks who had posted videos with dabs then claimed the tick?? Just decide on your own code of ethics but in the end you are potentially just bullshitting yourself as mate used to say

Wipey Why

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#10 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 28, 2011, 02:26:13 pm
you are potentially just bullshitting yourself

Nail on the head

iain

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#11 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 28, 2011, 03:02:28 pm

Part of the difficulty of Cubby's can be keeping feet/arse off the floor, (and I wouldn't normally say this but harder for the tall that one.)

When I first 'did' it I managed to dab my hand after I'd swung my feet round  :shrug: :slap: I had witnesses and none of them said anything so I took it at the time, but it kept niggling so I went back to clear my conscience.

magpie

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#12 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 28, 2011, 03:09:55 pm
I wouldn't but purely because I know it would annoy me rather than what others might think, I'd rather do them again properly so there was no doubt in my mind.

I think if you have to ask the question then you know the answer, if you thought it was ok to take the tick there wouldn't be any point in asking. :)

Jaspersharpe

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#13 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 28, 2011, 03:29:53 pm
A few years ago in Font I fell / jumped off the 2A finish of Barre Fixe at Elephant four or five times because it was damp / I was pumped / I was on my own with one pad and thought I was going to land on my back on the boulder under it. It's a shit problem and was ripping my skin to bits and I eventually gave up.

As I was on my own and had done all the hard climbing at least four times in a row I suppose I could have justified it to myself as good enough, not told anyone and taken the tick.

But it would have felt totally wrong and done my head in forever. As it is, I doubt I'll ever go back for the tick as there are thousands of better problems to do in Font. Do I care? No (even though Lagers went and crushed it a day later). Never worth lying to yourself.

I think if you have to ask the question then you know the answer, if you thought it was ok to take the tick there wouldn't be any point in asking. :)

 :agree:

mrjonathanr

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#14 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 28, 2011, 03:42:52 pm
Never worth lying to yourself.

Absolutely not unless you have a truly terrible memory.

I usually reserve my lies for people who've no idea what actually happened. It's much more rewarding.

leeroy

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#15 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 29, 2011, 01:22:54 pm
I think if you have to ask the question then you know the answer, if you thought it was ok to take the tick there wouldn't be any point in asking. :)

Bang on.
However its a shame that dabbing the floor in a way that doesnt help you at all on the problem is considered enough to prohibit a proper ascent. Its not that i disagree and when i repetitively dabbed on the end of Zippys Traverse at stanage my conscience wouldnt let me take the tick until not even a single blade of grass was grazed. Although this was the "correct" way to do the problem it certainly wasnt the most effecient or enjoyable, personally i would rather have spent my energy on another problem rather than trying to avoid dabbing on something that i had effectively done several times.

In this case though it is clear that you are fully capable of doing both problems again and therefore you should enjoy coasting them when fresh next time :)


Jaspersharpe

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#16 Re: the etiquette of bouldering
October 29, 2011, 03:22:52 pm
The dab thing can be mainly remedied by not climbing shitty arse dragging traverses in the first place.

 

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