[buster martin]

Apparently if you want the 8a tick you can use the arête until the double undercuts but then you have to go out right.
Not sure though it does seem a bit of an eliminate but that’s what I was told at the crag by someone else trying the route…
The way I got to the twin undercuts is by going off the jug to a small but good pocket round the arête with left hand then get feet high and go to small sidepull on the face, left foot high to pull yourself in to the arete  and then go up to the pinch with left, feet high in the break then I get the first undercut as an intermediate then go again to the second then feet high on good foot holds to clip, hope that makes sesnse to you!
I tried not using the arête for that section but the only hold is the small side pull unless you go further right and follow the line in the guide book?
good luck with the route!

[Duma]

Dont remember using the arete to get to the undercut, but then I don't rember the sequence to the underut at all so no suprise there...
I didn't use the arete above, but only because the easiest sequence for me didn't use it. A mate was trying it around the same time and used the arete sequence - certainly didn't look any easier!
Pitcairn on here ( Iain) has done it as well and might remember more than me.

[Nick S]

Thanks, that does make sense. The sequence with the pockets/pinch on the arete is more or less what I was trying. I couldn't work out a body position enabling me to bump my left hand up, though I did manage to get into the undercuts if I started from the pinch. It was a little damp so perhaps that may make a difference, and there are a lot of permutations for feet there that I haven't tried.

I can't see how you would get into the undercuts without the arete, and while I have no real idea of how hard the moves on an 8a are supposed to feel, I can't imagine how I would do it like that, whereas with the arete I can at least see how it would be done.

Going up and right after you get the twin undercuts seemed the logical thing to do to me (at least that was the way the chalk went), I couldn't see how it would be possible to continue up the arete but hey ho.

[J_duds]

Realm of chaos - was on it yesterday and the top section between the last bolt and belay was loose - I pulled off a large block narrowly missing my partner below, our ropebag wasnt so lucky!  Several blocks and holds on the same level seem loose and have hollow sounds so take it easy at the top! Spoils some nice climbing below! Perhaps the belay should be lower?
cheers john