[ali k]

Thinking of heading down to check out Cuenca at the end of this month (October) for a long weekend.

Just wondering if anyone's been and can recommend it. All I'd heard was that it's a whole load of pockets and a lot of it's drilled/chipped/sika-ful so wasn't too inspired but I've seen some photos recently that make it look pretty nice.

Is end of October a good time to go? Is there plenty in the shade if too hot? What's the best topo/guide? And of course the usual recommendations of must-do routes 7a-8a 

Cheers in advance 

[SA Chris]

Found lots of drilling, chipping, sika courtesy of the guy who ran the refugio when we were there, but saying that loads of good quality routes too. Quite a lot of pocket pulling but quite friendlly. Far from the best place I've been to in Spain though, but we found it good as you can get to most crags without needing a car.

We were there in march and it was baltic cold in the shade, but OK in the sun. crags face all directions. No idea on guides and route names, we just scribbled topos out of guide in refuge each day.

[richieb]

I really enjoyed Cuenca. Didn't encounter that many drilled routes, or I just didnt notice. I remember lots of good orange rock 7a/b face climbing type stuff.  As Chris said plenty of options for sun and shade and loads of sectors within walking distance.
I do remember the sector immediately behind the refuge with the barking dogs had the worst crag toilet scene I've ever witnessed. Pretty grim stuff.
Also some of the crags had bee hives at the base, we had to run away at least once. 

There is a super steep crag in the other valley (the one east of the town from memory) with some bonkers looking hard routes. Maybe this is where most of the chipping drilling etc has gone on?

Dont have the guide but i remember this crag in particular was pretty good..


Paul Tatt at Cuenca by richiebetts, on Flickr

[jakes]

There's a Desnivel guide:

http://www.rockrun.com/products/Cuenca.html

No idea how good it is/or isn't.

[dpb]

I've climbed in Cuenca 5 or 6 times (a good friend is married to a Spanish girl whose family live there) and am quite fond of the place.

You'll certainly manufactured holds - a few routes are completely manufactured.  This is because Cuenca was developed early on in Spanish climbing and so chipping etc was not frowned upon. The sector above is Fortin and the route a great 7b+ called Cria Cuervos.  There is a route coming out from the back of cave/pen that it pretty much nothing but chipped/sika'd holds.  Aprender a aprender is good 7b on the right hand side of this sector and there is a great, super steep jug fest on the far left called F. Tinnunculus.

One of my favorite sectors is Sombretivo.  Amor al sikadur (7b+) and Dos Pegues (7c) are both very good.  The left hand side of Rincon de Ermita will be a great place to be October and has some good routes in the 7's to 8a. 

Most of the climbing on vertival/overhanging walls and pockets and edges.  I climbed there in October 2 years ago and it was too hot in the sun but great in the shade.  As Chris says, you'll find rock facing in all directions so you'll def be able to climb and can walk to most sectors from the city as a nice warm up.  If you do have a car the walk ins will be very short. 

The guide is http://www.outside.co.uk/shop/Cuenca+Sport+Climbing

You can find updates to the guide here http://climbermania.com/actualizaciones-y-croquis/guia-cuenca/actualizaciones-guias/cuenca/ downloadable as PDF's.  This site (in spanish) also has a route database (buscador de vias) in which you can search for routes by quality (calidad (and rated from 1 to 4 stars)).

[ali k]

That's what I wanted to hear...a bit of love for the place! 

Barring any major hiccups with the weather I reckon I'll go and check it out then. Unless it cools down drastically in the next few weeks I think we'll be seeking the shade, so which sectors are best for that?

Oh, and with probably only four days climbing any more recommendations of must-do routes/sectors would be fantastic!

[SA Chris]

Bear in mind that it is pretty high up compared to a lot the Spanish coastal crags, so is a lot cooler. We had snow when we were there.