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Ironing out muscular imbalances- Wrists (Read 2240 times)

jakes

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Ironing out muscular imbalances- Wrists
October 13, 2011, 02:00:30 pm
Since starting back at Uni a year ago, and so spending more time at the computer, I seem to have developed tendonitis in my wrists. Compared to other people in a similar situation at work (i.e. similar length of time spent on computer etc.) I seem to be more prone to developing wrist pain. My hypothesis is that this is due to muscular imbalances from climbing.

Before anyone suggests it, I have suitable wrist support- similar to the things suggested here: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17818.25.html

The tendonitis is manageable now by spending more time in the lab and not stressing them. However, I'm going to be spending a considerable amount of time at the computer in the course of the next year or so. Due to this, I was wondering whether anyone had advice for ironing out muscular imbalances that can cause/make you more prone to tendonitis i.e. exercises that help prevent re-occurence?

Johnny Brown

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Yoga.

jakes

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Whilst I'm sure doing Yoga is advantageous to climbing, I was hoping for suggestions of exercises that are a little more focused. I guess the OP should have been a little more precise in this manner.

What I was hoping for was to be enlightened on the type of muscle imbalances that can make you more prone to wrist tendonitis and therefore any focused exercises that can target those weak/seldom-used muscles.

For example, does anyone recommend trying reverse wrist curls? Or are these likely to make it worse...

Like I mentioned in the OP, they're manageable at the moment. What I'm hoping for is to do some exercises now so that I don't need to visit a physio in a few months time!

shark

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The wrist strengthening DB complex at 2:40 could be useful

« Last Edit: October 13, 2011, 05:04:07 pm by shark »

Johnny Brown

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Whilst I'm sure doing Yoga is advantageous to climbing, I was hoping for suggestions of exercises that are a little more focused.

Sorry if the one word answer seemed facile. It wasn't. I'm not sure yoga is directly advantageous to climbing, what it is extremely useful for is ironing out muscle imbalances. The whole point is to create a flexible, balanced physique. You do a lot of exercises where your wrists are load bearing whilst moving, plus a few where the wrists are flexed under muscle tension/ compression. I had a fair bit of wrist pain/ instability when I started, never bothered me since.

A targeted curl with a dumbell work, but in my experience its a bit like that game where you try to twat a gopher with a golf club. Soon enough it'll pop up elsewhere.


BB

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its a bit like that game where you try to twat a gopher with a golf club. Soon enough it'll pop up elsewhere.

Did anyone else read "golfer" for "gopher" and wonder how assaulting someone on the 18th tee could possible help?!

 

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