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Trick arete, Earl (Read 4597 times)

rginns

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Trick arete, Earl
September 05, 2011, 02:51:25 pm
Ok, I found this impossible. I know I'm a bit shit, but I expected to at least be able to pull on.

Is there a special trick to this?

Oh, and the problem from the Jug to the top on 'low block' (right of trick arete) is graded 6b in the total climbing guide - is it just me or is this massively overgraded?

Stu Littlefair

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#1 Re: Trick arete, Earl
September 05, 2011, 03:26:11 pm
Is there a special trick to this?

Is this a trick question?

SA Chris

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#2 Re: Trick arete, Earl
September 05, 2011, 03:39:55 pm
Is that a rhetorical question? Is this?

rginns

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#3 Re: Trick arete, Earl
September 05, 2011, 04:28:32 pm
Sorry, I should have been more precise:

what is the trick...? ;)

fatneck

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#4 Re: Trick arete, Earl
September 06, 2011, 12:23:10 pm
I think the trick for me was not to use the obvious hold for the right hand (I think...) Remember it took a while to suss but was piss once sussed, but that's Earl in a nutsack isn't it!? Regarding the 6b thing, I thought it was undergraded!!!

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#5 Re: Trick arete, Earl
September 06, 2011, 12:25:19 pm
It's nails.

SA Chris

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#6 Re: Trick arete, Earl
September 06, 2011, 01:09:47 pm
Is that the sit, left on arete slap for lip, match, grind out a mantle? Always thought it was steady away.

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#7 Re: Trick arete, Earl
September 06, 2011, 02:23:03 pm
No, it's morel like:  Pull on, fall off, pull on, fall off, pull on, fall off, move on.

rginns

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#8 Re: Trick arete, Earl
September 06, 2011, 04:43:17 pm
Is that the sit, left on arete slap for lip, match, grind out a mantle? Always thought it was steady away.
On low block? No, I think you're referring to the 6a to the left, good problem actually.
 I'm on about the 6b on the right, from jug to top, mantle mantle.

hmm, trick arete did feel nails though

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#9 Re: Trick arete, Earl
October 03, 2011, 11:36:32 am
Some strong lad doing it in here, Rick:





As an aside, is the big flatty in for Trick Arete?  the ACD guide seemed to suggest this was a seperate problem and TA only used the arete?

SA Chris

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#10 Re: Trick arete, Earl
October 03, 2011, 01:01:04 pm
Which big flatty?

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#11 Re: Trick arete, Earl
October 03, 2011, 01:33:17 pm
Up on the left.  When I say big flatty, it's more of a sloper thing IIRC.

SA Chris

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#12 Re: Trick arete, Earl
October 03, 2011, 02:07:22 pm
Ah OK. Pretty sure that's out. I've done it using the footledge down and left before too, it's quite a bit easier using that.

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#13 Re: Trick arete, Earl
October 03, 2011, 03:04:54 pm
Oh dear Big Frank, back around :lol:

SA Chris

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#14 Re: Trick arete, Earl
October 03, 2011, 03:23:28 pm
I'm confused. Not the one he stands on, the big ledge to the left.

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#15 Re: Trick arete, Earl
October 03, 2011, 04:14:49 pm
Ah, I was referring to the second hold he uses for his left hand.

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#16 Re: Trick arete, Earl
October 10, 2011, 11:19:03 pm
Surely on a problem like this you use all the available holds. This is the way I've always done it.
Comments on YG ( http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=earl__trick_arete#comments )
There was a video of Jon doing it using the same holds I used.


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#17 Re: Trick arete, Earl
October 11, 2011, 07:53:53 am
I completely agree. It seems to be historical confusion.

 

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