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Tarn/Boffi/Jonte - route recommendations (Read 2254 times)

AJM

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Tarn/Boffi/Jonte - route recommendations
October 03, 2011, 08:55:07 pm
Anyone got any good ones...? Say 6c-7b, although outrageously soft 7b+s will also be considered  ;)

Off to the area for a week on Saturday, much psyche  ;D

Things on the list already from last time:
Mac du Mal - Boffi
French Kiss - Boffi
Finishing off all those 6cs at Boffi like Damned and Club des Ex
Something multipitch at the Jonte - the 6c-7a jobbie on the huge perched block maybe
Not climbed at Tarn yet but everyone raves about that Tresor du Zebra...

Suggestions welcome...!

shark

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Mac du Mal is good - two options on the crux direct or out right and back left IIRC. The hardest bit is deciding which to commit to. Sac of Glue to the right is quite tough/cruxy/I failed to O/S it. Looked at French Kiss but it catches the wind and my partner wasn't up for belaying me on it. Damned itself is a soft 7b though there is a spicy bit high up. I think Boffi is ok for a day for a bit of peace and to commune with the pterodactyls but Tarn is world class and where you should spend your time.

AJM

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The only downside of the Tarn is that a chunk of it's debolted and a chunk of the rest now banned. Which means that it also spreads the lower grades (which by Tarn standards 6c-7b seems to be!) out a bit more, there's less concentration of them. Still going to spend a day or two obviously, there is some ace looking stuff to go at!

I really rated the climbing at Boffi as well as the setting and the quiet - at my grades there's that whole host of good 6cs round Damned, plus the 7a+s I've listed look cool too. Didn't do a bad route there really. And the Jonte is somewhere I want to explore more too...

Ruarl

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#3 Re: Tarn/Boffi/Jonte - route recommendations
November 13, 2011, 04:42:43 pm
Get yer ass back to Cantobre and get spanked again!

Got your copy of the new book yet?

AG

AJM

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#4 Re: Tarn/Boffi/Jonte - route recommendations
November 13, 2011, 09:17:40 pm
Get yer ass back to Cantobre and get spanked again!

Got your copy of the new book yet?

AG

I have, yeah. Very nice. I do want a rematch with Cantobre, but I need to get a bit better first I think - really wasn't my style...

We had a great trip there in the end, got loads of good routes done. Already planning to go back in April sort of time next year! Interested?

Saw some nice photos of Siurana that Piers took a while back - good trip?

AJM

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#5 Re: Tarn/Boffi/Jonte - route recommendations
November 13, 2011, 09:24:11 pm
Slightly more on topic, some actual route recommendations for future visitors:

The 6cs at Zebra are good - Tarn is business and Time is money
Mac du Mal and French Kiss are both good
The 6cs and the 6c+ at Damned - Damned, La Lune et le Teton, all those ones.
Self Control at the Tarn is good.
Couiles de Cul is fun too, and quite gentle for it's grade if rather runout on the easy ground at the top.

 

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