[Johnny Brown]

So what could I learn from the current crop of 'rock-celeb tutors'?

1. How to stand on a mat and curse in a camp voice, inbetween taking ages to figure out a simple sequence.

2. How to wear unfeasibly tight t-shirts with unfeasibly large logos whilst 'having it' in non-stop party stylee.

3. How to justify outrageous grades, by rendering your critics bored speechless, with a judicious mix of mathematics and a charisma bypass.

4. How to climb like a frog with CJD.

But seriously... anyone beyond a certain point is only going to benefit from learning technique. Only Dawes is really going to teach you anything in this area. Most of the others are just strong - and at the end of the day that just comes down to putting the time in down the wall - no thanks.

[dave]

cheers, thats the funniest post i've read in a long time.

and if this don't make you laugh/cringe then nothing will:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=10602

[a dense loner]

it's ok sayin that if ure already a weapons grade cat   . wotever that may be?

[Bonjoy]

So what could I learn from the current crop of 'rock-celeb tutors'?

1. How to stand on a mat and curse in a camp voice, inbetween taking ages to figure out a simple sequence.

2. How to wear unfeasibly tight t-shirts with unfeasibly large logos whilst 'having it' in non-stop party stylee.

3. How to justify outrageous grades, by rendering your critics bored speechless, with a judicious mix of mathematics and a charisma bypass.

4. How to climb like a frog with CJD.

But seriously... anyone beyond a certain point is only going to benefit from learning technique. Only Dawes is really going to teach you anything in this area. Most of the others are just strong - and at the end of the day that just comes down to putting the time in down the wall - no thanks.

   The first two are easy, the third i have an idea, the fourth could be one of a few.

[a dense loner]

dave, uve made my day!  

[Bonjoy]

:worthy:

[dave]

maybe they should have amasterclass called "how to look tanned and intense on easy problems"

http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?text=adrian+berry
http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?text=gresham

[Bubba]

You're only jealous of those hunky bodies  :wink:

[erm, sam]

How many people watching? That looks boring as fuck. I think a few hours in a bouldering session would be interesting and fun. But a whole week watching a baldy climb lame routes would be terrible.
Oh, just realised I have crossed the line into armchair commentator territory. What do I know what they got up to, maybe they found it fullfilling and rewarding etc.
I guess I think bouldering is sufficiently technique focused to benefit more from coaching than route climbing, when just doing a load of intervals for a month would ramp your grade loads..

[Johnny Brown]

But you get to hang with your hero!! Those guys are sooo coool!

[a dense loner]

in the first photo is he being spotted by mulder n scully. i want to believe!

[Bonjoy]

What exactly is the difference between demoing something and climbing it? Is it something like vogue-ing?

[Doylo]

They should become a pop act, could be the new Right Said Fred maybe!

[a dense loner]

gaskins shud have somethin to say about their tans, i reckon.

[Paz]

I wouldn't do a course as I don't regard the tutors as any better than me, just a bit more naturally talented and stronger cos they've spent 10 maybe 20 years longer training.  They're just climbers same as I am.

[account_inactive]

Dense loner

Ok you're probably right these people that I train would have climbed 7a if I wasn't there but that's not the point.  As with all sport science things there is no real right or wrong, just quicker ways to get to the same point.  It would most definitely taken longer than 6 months.  Plus I do this for a living and can spot talent a mile off, these guys are not what you would class as being top class climber potential.  Unlike the 2 of the british juniors that I have been involved in training.
Some people don't have the time to get to know better climber to gain useful information.  Come on just think about it, punter goes to stanage and tries to get beta of some wanna be pro and told to fuck right off.  As much as you would like to think that information is shared between climbers you are wrong.  In France that kind of information is shared so that the whole community improves not just individuals.  
Coaching will in the end help the standard of climbers whether you want it or not.  Plus just because someone is better that you does put them in a better position to train.  A large number of coachs are not as good as their atheletes.  
NOTE: Get tan and shave head, pose at Stanage and demo routes

[Bonjoy]

I can't speak for anyone else but in my experience (16 years of), i've never come across any climber who would tell a novice to 'fuck off' if they were aproached for assistance, infact the vast majority would be more than happy to give what help they could.

[nik at work]

Have to say that my experience of bouldering at Stanage (or anywhere else for that matter) is wildly different to that. Whenever I have asked for beta/help/info at a crag I have always been given info/guidance/a guided tour etc etc and I have always reciprocated when asked (although I certainly don't class myself as world class...). It doesn't seem to matter who you ask in my experience from unknowm punter, through shy and quiet beast to rock god superstar, they are all helpful.

As for the original question. Would I pay for coaching in climbing? No, it is a hobby and I do it for fun, not to get to the next grade so coaching would be wasted on me. If I was sponsored/competing maybe I would look for coaching as career development I suppose.

[a dense loner]

thought u said u'd been trainin these people for a yr tho, not 6 mths. i agree the idea is to get better faster. i'm not sayin the way forward isn't coachin. just that i wouldn't pay for it.
when u say u do this for a livin n can spot talent a mile off. i wud like to think that i do it for a livin as wel, i just don't get paid. anybody can see potential.
when u go on about stanage n punters bein told to fuck off. is this from experience or myth? personally i would never tell anyone to fuck off if they asked for beta, i would simply give them the beta. oh n i have been to stanage quite a bit. think it gets an undeserved bad press.  
NOTE i have a shaved head, pose at stanage n demo routes if asked, i just don't have a tan  :wink:

[account_inactive]

I think it depends who you are and who you ask.  I have never been treated like that but I do have friend that have.  I think that sort of attitude is more likely to happen at the wall.  Sorry should have got my facts straight.
Sometimes its hard to forget that for most people getting better is not the main thing in their climbing.  I have a huge problem with assuming that better=harder.  Especially as I'm not climbing at the moment!