[Bonjoy]

Come to think of it, have you put up any problems which AREN'T eliminates dense? 
I love big fat orange wedge pinches.

as for the capitulating to my work demands on the phone we're not in china so i like to go to work in the morning knowing i'm coming back in the evening by lunch time, since i've got coffee to drink indoors

 

[leeroy]

It was seeping quite badly from the break down yesterday. The starting hand and footholds of most problems were affected, but everything was still climbable with careful towel use. Really nice holds and moves on good solid rock.

There were a significant number of tick marks left on problems too. 

Is it time to start a Conies Dale conditions thread?

On that note, anyone know what its like at the moment?

[Ru]

Very wet below the break yesterday (almost running water in the center), and some seepage above that. Having said that, virtually every problem (possibly except the 7c+) was climbable with diligent towel use, as long as you didn't mind climbing with spooge covered feet.

I didn't try the 7c+ - what's the sequence on this, does it use that collection of gash brushed slopers?

[dave]

Checked this crag out today, ideal conditions. Almost totally dry, shady, cool, nice breeze, lovely stuff.

On pb.info it mentions some project traverse, I assume this has been done since that topo was written, any ideas? I thought it was ok starting up one of the 6bs and finishing up lamprecht, which seemed to be what the line on the topo indicates.

Also did a traverse starting wi the first move of the 7c+ then shuffle left across lamiche into toutts. Felt a bit harder than the other traverse. Conie Ferrino?

[Bonjoy]

Don't think the trav mentioned as a proj has been done. Not sure we actually ever tried it, just spotted the line. How hard was it?

[dave]

Did it second go after sussing out where the hold were in the blank bit - main problem being you can't reach them from the ground to check. Probably 7a+ish. Could call it Conie Whitehouse, since it has the potential to go on longer than you'd like (possibly finishing up conie island elephant...)

The other one felt 7a+/bish, hard to say.

[Moo]

Hi folks just wanted to bring to your attention that the farmers have been having some problems with walls being knocked over on the walk in to conies.

We went there yesterday to avoid the crowds and as we were walking along the crag side of the wall a young farm lad hurled abuse at us under the mistaken impression that we had crossed a wall without using a stile. I managed to calm him down ask what the problems had been and he replied using many vulgarities that people 'Like us' (I assume he meant people carrying pads) have been crossing the walls and knocking them over.

He explained that it's ok to cross the first field using the stile which is half way up the wall on the far side, then through the fence at the top of the hill in the second field before crossing at a stile which is in the bottom right hand corner of the third field as you approach it before walking along into the little valley.

He was very very upset by our presence as apparently they have had a lot of sheep escaping through these walls onto the crag side which they don't own.

[Jim]

I've only been the once, but to cross the wall by the crag, there was no obvious style that I could see. Also parts of that wall only needed to be breathed on before collapsing, not that this is anyway an excuse

[sidewinder]

Also only been the once, but again found no obvious way over the wall by the crag.  When I went the approach valley also looked a little like the sheep version of an elephant graveyard (avoidance of paying for removal of fallen stock?).

[Duma]

Highrepute put this on the other thread, not yet sure if its the correct approach but thought it should be here too:

Is this the approach you describe?

This avoids climbing over any walls without stiles but does include crossing a fence.

conies by jamesofhighrepute, on Flickr

[abarro81]

Went here yesterday. Fun venue for 6s and low 7s, in a different setting to the usual peak lime - feels a bit more rural. Some grade adjustments needed - I would suggest:
Yeboah - 6c/+ not 7a
Toutts - 6c/+ not 7a
Simpson - 7a not 7a+
Iommi - 7a+/b not 7b+
Musselbrook (original)  - 7a+ not 7b
Whitehouse - 7a not 7b (there are 7b routes way harder than this)

Conie the tiger, conie soprano, mu little conie, and conie jaa : didn't do but logic suggests they will all need a downgrade too given the constituent parts.

Linking Yeboah or Toutts into Lamiche staying below the big jugs is fun, and about 7a+ and 7a respectively


Has anyone done Beak Forest? Is the best way to take the small but ok RH slot, get LF out left and do a big press up to the slot via the poor slopers, or is there better beta?

[r-man]

You could add your votes to pb? It will automatically adjust grades:
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/155-conies-dale#.U7qv27FR5aH

[abarro81]

Will do

[r-man]

 

[dave]

Whitehouse - 7a not 7b (there are 7b routes way harder than this)

Don't know where 7b came from, I said 7a+ ish.

[highrepute]

I can claim some responsibility for the gentle gradings here, not that I agree with all of Alex's grades, but I'm probably too generous with my grades.

Whitehouse is the only one that surprises me on that list. I remember finding that one really hard.

[JamieG]

I think Conie's feels soft for a peak limestone crag, but more in line with the grit grades in general. Although I appreciate it is a different style of climbing with different strengths required etc etc

[Wood FT]

just want to say that I'm a font 7a climber, I did a font 7a there, and it felt font 7a.

cheers.

[Three Nine]

I can claim some responsibility for the gentle gradings here, not that I agree with all of Alex's grades, but I'm probably too generous with my grades.

Whitehouse is the only one that surprises me on that list. I remember finding that one really hard.

I onsited/flashed Whitehouse and I do not flash 7B. I've had to try harder on route 7bs. I thought was 7A at most.

[Three Nine]

Also -

I did Toutts into Lamiche without going to the jugs on Toutts, called Conie Hancock.

ps. look at me

[Three Nine]

Who cares anyway, we had a nice enough time there.

[highrepute]

I hope your grade outrage didn't ruin your enjoyment of what is a very nice little spot with some fun climbing!

[haydn jones]

Did montana into lamiche, can't see this being claimed anywhere? would be surprised if this was a first ascent, but i'll claim it if no one else is

[highrepute]

can only be claimed if you have a good conie pun.

[haydn jones]

I named it Big fat Conie :D