[Fultonius]

Thought I'd kick it off this week as I've had an awesome week of training - psyched!

STG: 1. Make it to October in 1 peice, no injuries and no knee probelms.
         2. F7b Onsight in El Chorro and F7c quick redpoint.

LTG: Find some new F8a projects and start working them. Complete one by April. E5 Onsight by next June.
VLTG: Fr8a+ Redpoint, 5+ Fr8a repoints. Boulder 7C/+

Wt:76kg - seem to have stabilised at this and it's easy to maintain.

M: Warm up. (6a followed by 6a+) 6b+, 6b+ x3 laps no resting, 6c up - 6a down - 6b up, 7a up - 6b down - 6c up(fail). Trying to maintain efficiency/footwork. Stopped early as climbing again tomorrow. 120mish total height

T: 6a, 6a+, 6b+, 6c, 7a(Up)-6b(down)-6c(up)(failed on last up), 6c+-6a-6c(o/s), 6c-5-6b(fail near top of last up)), 7a (tired, failed 2/3 height). 150m ish total

W: Dumby session, working consolidated (font7b+/fr7c+ traverse) and had a few laps on the first half of my project, suffix.

T: rest.

F:Ratho. Onsighting practice on 20-25m routes - 6a+, 6b, 7a+, 7a+ (roof) fail/1st redpoint, 7a+ fail(passed the 7a section), 7b - got past the 7a+ l/o but failed short of top out. 6a+. 180m.

S:6a to 6c+ Marathon! 15 routes, mainly >6b all onsight. ~300m ish. Felt tired, but good.

All in, my body has responded much better to this training volume than I expected. 24hour recovery feels like it's improving a lot! Shame I've got 2.5 to 3 weeks on an oilrig to lose all those gains... 

[i_a_coops]

sounds like a hardcore week Fultonius! good to know there's light at the end of the rehab tunnel.

M
T - Indoor bouldering on slopers, dodgy foot coping with falling off - YYFY. Sadly I am weak as piss and failed on everything harder than V3.
W - rest
T - Cheesewring again, I love this place. Sorted out Rampage, got shut down on another 7b though before running out of skin
F - Anstey's - onsighted a 7a linkup, got shut down on The Lynch ('7b+' hand jamming, eek), then wobbled my way up More Steam, Bigger Women after about a million redpoints. Despite only being 7b it feels like the hardest slab/wall route I've ever done, so dead chuffed. ALSO I had to crimp a couple of the holds, and my dodgy finger didn't complain! YYFY
S
S - Indoor bouldering on slopers, managed up to V5 this time.

[webbo]

Mon.Nothing.
Tue.Rockcity 3 redpoint attempts on blue v8 hit the last hold 3 times but fail to hold it.Pleased with this despite failing.
Wed. Elbow op goes well according to surgeon however my left eye feels like someone stabbed me in it.
Thu. Feeling fine go for a walk 6 miles 1 and half hours.
Fri. Turbo 10 min warm up 5x5 min on 1 min off 10 min warm down.
Sat. Turbo 10 min warm up 6x5min on 1 min off 10 min warm down.
Sun.Right foot hurts probably from cycling shoe. Walk 10 miles 2hrs 40 mins.

I suppose I'm not doing too bad following my op but my elbow still clicks and I still don't have any more movement.

[shark]

Thanks Fultonius

Weight 11.5-6

M. Shed. Evening. Oak circuit 3 sets, good progress
T.  Noon. Big fingerboard session, good progress. Eve Edge belaying Poppy quick dabble on campus board but tired. 
W.
T.  Shed. Eve. Oak circuit 3 sets awesome progress
F.  Foundry. Eve with kids. Bouldered on wave and did one set of old AnCap circuit on 40 deg board
S. AM Park run with Poppy
S. Malham. Hot and dripping. Saw a multicoloured woodpecker on walk in. Oak soaked. 1 x F&E. O/S Dead End Job. Two goes working Main overhang for first time in the sun - hard work on the tips.

Following the 3 hard week, 1 easier week pattern I will mainly be having an easier week this week.

Bit gutted that the Oak was wet but was to be expected. Have Main Overhang as an alternative to go on which was more sustained and much better than I was expecting.   

[Luthor]

STG  - ...
MTG  - ... new goals needed
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     -
Tue     - Edge: Routes
Wed     - Burbage: Bouldering after work. Repeated banana finger direct.
Thurs   - Works: Lunchtime circuits
Fri     - rest
Sat     - Works: Bouldering
Sun     - rest

[fried]

Monday - Indoor, third session in 6 days and I'm not falling apart - progress
Tuesday - work
Wednesday - work
Thursday - work
Friday - work
Saturday - good indoor session/ weights even try some pull-ups for the first time in about 2 year manage 5, but still not falling apart.
Sunday - 150 press ups.

STG - 150 press ups per day this week.

Weight 74.7kg

[andybfreeman]

Goals as before.

I'm just back from a week in font.

It wass pretty warm but we managed to climb every day except last sunday when we were rained off.

Highlights for me include Onde Du Choc 7B (at last!), Le Grande Marche 7A+ and Le Lepre Directe 7A. I also laid soem demons to rest by spanking the 6C at elephanty that had strained my tendon last trip. Got close but no cigar on L'Ange Naif (i'd been trying with taped tips on my right hand to protect skin on the crimp and I had meant to get back there yesterday but ferry times and walk ins meant that we went to cuvier instead)

An awesome week and a great way to say goodbye to climbing mates before i leave for oz. The only downside was that  the volume of cheese, beer, pastries and wine consumed have combined to ruin my good work in weight management! Back on the diet this week

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (5 done)
5 x 7A (2 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder thera-band work
Work on knee and up running mileage again (update: knee is feeling good, just need to slowly increase the milleage).

M: rest
T: BM: max hangs, core & 5m run
W: bouldering at NCC
T: rest
F: Bouldering at NCC
S: 3xDB complex & 5m run
S: Bouldering at Secret garden, Mother Cap and Pet.

Trying to focus on climbing more at the moment as I'm feeling fairly strong but think I'm poor on technique, so a good week although elbows are feeling a bit dodgy as usual.

[heelhookofglory]

Oops think I missed a week!

M: Rest
T: Shoulders and Elbows pre-hab
W: Bouldering at AW Stoke
T: Rest
F: Weights: Arms / Abs
S: 11.5km MTB ride. Weights: Back / Shoulders

M: Weights: Legs / Shoulders / Abs
T: Weights: Chest / Back / Abs
W: Rest
T: Weights: Legs / Shoulders / Arms / Abs
F: Weights: Chest / Back / Abs
S: 23km MTB ride
S: Weights: Legs / Arms / Chest / Abs

Having re-injured an A2 I'm having ~4 weeks off climbing. Also using this time to build up some psyche ready for winter season. It's bloody killing me already though, I want to climb. Having to cross-train to stay sane.

Non-climbing week 1 of 4 done.

[Muenchener]

STG:  Frankenjura 6b
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M: yoga
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. In which I continue to get up cruxy routes in the 6bish range, but burn out at ten metres on anything vaguely pumpy. (STG: burn out at eleven metres!)
T:
F: Wall, Thalkirchen: bouldering & 2-finger pocket ladders on system board for Frankenjura trip in 2 weeks
S:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen: family session with kids, and still sore from bouldering Friday. Got a few routes in nevertheless.

[duncan]

Goals

M - Arch - easy circuit
T - Tentative deadhangs
W - sore shoulder(s)
T - Arch brief play
F - Shoulder stability
S - Family stuff, Shoulder stability
S - Lad's 2nd birthday party, short run.

Busy week for work and family life.  Just getting some training done is a small success.  Rib tweak seems to have more-or-less gone, so shoulder exercises can resume.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Same

M: Nowt
T: Bouldering @ Curbar - Good session except for slipping off the sloper on Early Doors with my heel already in place and landing flat on my back with the mat 6" away from me and my spotter looking on in amusement... After an agonizing 10 mins the pain subsided enough for 3 ascents of strawberries, the trackside crack problem, the 7a eliminate of said problem, UGE 3 times and the Green Mile...
W: Nowt
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Sessioned my mates beastmaker while supposedly socialising...

Overall a shit week trainingwise... Work, weddings and social engagements just got in the way!

This week: Train, T,W,T,F and climb @ The Tor on Sunday....

:D

[nai]

Goals: Same

 slipping off the sloper on Early Doors with my heel already in place and landing flat on my back with the mat 6" away from me

Ouch.  Find it easier on that to keep feet directly beneath rather than throw the heel up.  Less scary too.

[nai]

stg (sep/oct) - this n that
mtg (winter) several blocs up to 7c with Brad Pit the main aim
ltg - 8a & E4 next summer

m
T - max hangs
w
T - met up with tomtom for some boulderisation, he kindly belayed me on the Rasp too.
f
S - max hangs, good session.
s - had to call off a planned session due to a bulbous lump appearing in forearm which causes discomfort when loading back2.

And it was all going so well...  Arm feels ok on easy stuff (e.g. Curse, Lost in France & other BN eliminates) so looks like trad and easy stuff for a while.

[shark]

s - had to call off a planned session due to a bulbous lump appearing in forearm which causes discomfort when loading back2.

And it was all going so well...  Arm feels ok on easy stuff (e.g. Curse, Lost in France & other BN eliminates) so looks like trad and easy stuff for a while.

Bummer. That would have been your 7th max hang session in 13 days which with hindsight was pretty hardcore even if you had building up to it. When getting gains its soo tempting to go to do what turns out to be be too many sessions to press home the advantage. Hope it heals quick. 

[TobyD]

M Ansteys Cove; retro flashed how the mighty fall, fell off the crux of just revenge 4 or 5 times; 2 consecutive laps on not just empire to finish off
T Chudleigh; 1 E3 6b, awesome old school trickyness.
W Portland; fell off OS on a 7b+ next to finishing jug, looking at belay. Fell off next 5 times in same place. Hmmm.
T 30ish miles on bike
F nowt
S Wall; 20 or 30 moderate problems, and 10 ish routes 7a-b
S nowt, unless you count a 2 hour walk.

[nai]

Bummer. That would have been your 7th max hang session in 13 days which with hindsight was pretty hardcore even if you had building up to it.

Oops, I guess so, the danger of fitting in quickies around life I suppose.  And (wrongly) having it in your head that you need to do four sessions a week 

[shark]

Oops, I guess so, the danger of fitting in quickies around life I suppose.  And (wrongly) having it in your head that you need to do four sessions a week 

I think you are on the money having 4 sessions a week as a minimum you just needed to mix up the type of sessions

[tommytwotone]

A late update...

M: At physio getting dodgy hip looked at
T: Board session eve, good psyche and climbed well
W: Nowt, was going to wall but sacked it as ended up being too busy
T: Nowt, works night out, too many free beers
F: Nowt, out for dinner
S: Early start and off to Rubicon, then over to the Tor. Did what I assume is the "direct" version of A Bigger Prize, also made progress on Basher's Problem.
S: Wall session inc. 5 mins skipping to warm up and then down

Good to feel the hip's getting better, definitely not as bad now. Just a case of managing it in the short term I guess.