[rginns]

Ok, so I've built a board and been using it pretty regularly if only for short bursts.
The problem is this, I find it fairly difficult to warm up gradually due to only getting short bursts and the nature of it being a 40 degree board.
I've since noticed a dull ache in my middle fingers of both hands after being on the wall. I've injured these fingers previously so I think its just scar tissue or niggling the old injury and I don't think it's anything particularly to worry about.

I've started massaging my fingers after which is helping a bit, but does anyone have any tips on how to avoid this, or strategies for afterwards?

[lukeinaz]

.... I find it fairly difficult to warm up gradually due to only getting short bursts and the nature of it being a 40 degree board....

A proper WU will go a long way in preparing your fingers for the intense pulling to be had on a 40 wall.  Buy a (another) nice set of jugs to get fully warm.  I find a good 20 min WU of lots of easy moves/rock rings is mandatory for such fingery climbing.  Some days it takes much longer.

[erm, sam]

Hello! Listen to your self:

I've built a board and been using it pretty regularly

I've since noticed a dull ache in my middle fingers of both hands after being on the wall

I've injured these fingers previously

I don't think it's anything particularly to worry about

Of course it is something to worry about! Steep increase in volume and difficulty (assumption) combined with insufficient warming up? Injury is on its way.

I have some massive jugs on my board made from 3"x3" wood that are super for training warming up on. If i keep my feet on the ground it is pretty simple to spend 5 minutes using the holds with varying amounts of weight taken by the feet to start getting the blood flowing etc. I then move to short links on the jugs and then longer ones, with varying rests between.
Also I use a pull up bar to get things going sometimes before going on the board.
Sometimes I start warming up and a finger is sligthy achy from a previous session so I stop and do something else. Often the next evening it is fine to train on again.

Think about icing after every session also. I think 10 mins with your fingers sat in a bowl of ice water post session will make a big difference to your injury proofness.

Above all take it easy, you will get maximum benefit from your board if you are still training on it in 4 months - 1yr, not if you go mental now and then spend 2 months rehabing a cod finger.

Or maybe it is just me that gets all keen and then gets all injured and then gets all keen again and then gets injured and then gets keen and then blah blah

[shark]

.... I find it fairly difficult to warm up gradually due to only getting short bursts and the nature of it being a 40 degree board....

A proper WU will go a long way in preparing your fingers for the intense pulling to be had on a 40 wall.  Buy a (another) nice set of jugs to get fully warm.  I find a good 20 min WU of lots of easy moves/rock rings is mandatory for such fingery climbing.  Some days it takes much longer.

 

You need to warm-up properly not just for injury prevention but also to get the most out of your session. Get a warm-up routine going you like.helps. If you dont have  a juggy circuit how about 50 dwarf press-ups (press-up balanced on your knees) and a bolton complex with light dumbells. Deadhang progressively smaller holds with feet on to get your fingers recruited. Lots of options.

[rginns]

Hello! Listen to your self:

I've built a board and been using it pretty regularly

I've since noticed a dull ache in my middle fingers of both hands after being on the wall

I've injured these fingers previously

I don't think it's anything particularly to worry about

Of course it is something to worry about! Steep increase in volume and difficulty (assumption) combined with insufficient warming up? Injury is on its way.
I have some massive jugs on my board made from 3"x3" wood that are super for training warming up on. If i keep my feet on the ground it is pretty simple to spend 5 minutes using the holds with varying amounts of weight taken by the feet to start getting the blood flowing etc. I then move to short links on the jugs and then longer ones, with varying rests between.
Also I use a pull up bar to get things going sometimes before going on the board.
Sometimes I start warming up and a finger is sligthy achy from a previous session so I stop and do something else. Often the next evening it is fine to train on again.
Think about icing after every session also. I think 10 mins with your fingers sat in a bowl of ice water post session will make a big difference to your injury proofness.
Above all take it easy, you will get maximum benefit from your board if you are still training on it in 4 months - 1yr, not if you go mental now and then spend 2 months rehabing a cod finger.
Or maybe it is just me that gets all keen and then gets all injured and then gets all keen again and then gets injured and then gets keen and then blah blah

Not particularly an increase in difficulty, but definitely an increase in volume. I know a thorough warm up is a pre-requisite to avoiding injury, it's just how to effect that warm up - I think adding more massive jugs particularly for this purpose will help. I think my fingers are still catching up with the board to a certain extent.

I hadn't thought of icing, so I'll give that a go.

Does anyone massage as a routine after training? For me, it seems to help a bit, I presume it's helping increase blood flow which seems to be the crux of the matter.

[SA Chris]

Massage who?

I generally just warm down at the end of the session and get some clothes on as I gets cooler, rather than head straight off the board  out into the cold wet night and drive home. Obviously less of an issue with a home board, but I think going straight from intense session to couch is a bad idea.

I usually reserve finger massages for the next day if they are feeling a bit tweaky after an intense session.

[slackline]

I generally just warm down at the end of the session and get some clothes on as I gets cooler, rather than head straight off the board  out into the cold wet night and drive home. Obviously less of an issue with a home board, but I think going straight from intense session to couch is a bad idea.

Wot no pub session?  Maintain gentle exercise raising the arms and gripping a cool glass to soothe the swelling of the joints. 

[SA Chris]

Such pleasures are sadly denied me these days slackers. Tend to avoid it before driving anyway.

[slackline]

  forgot your a recent member of the Parent Club.