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PercyB - Rowtor Info. (Read 3091 times)

Nigel

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PercyB - Rowtor Info.
December 06, 2002, 03:18:59 pm
Hoping you might be the man to ask as everything else there seems to be yours! Do you know anything about the sit-start to the B5 (in Peak bouldering guide) mantle up the centre of the Dissolution block? Starts matched on a finny jug in the low break and then levers up to a small R-hand crimp, whereupon it busts a big move up and left into the original problem. Cheers.

P.S. Domes sit-start looks way cool! Also, has that problem through the big roof just below Domes, from the "T-Crack" style juggy undercuts to the pocket on the lip and then top-out been done? Can't find that either. Ta.

Percy B

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#1 PercyB - Rowtor Info.
December 07, 2002, 12:23:59 pm
Sit start on the Dissolution block was done a while back, although I don't know who did it first. Good problem though, with some very sharp little crimps as I remember!

Big high roof below Domes has been looked at by many strong folk, but the landing puts most off! I heard a rumour that Pat King had done it, although I'm sure he would have told a few more people if he really had done it as its an awesome line! I reckon, unless anybody knows otherwise, its still unclimbed........... :shock:
The high arete on the left of the roof has been done at about V5 by me, and is quite good and exciting - especially the top!
Its about time somebody dispatched the sit-start to Domes though. Its 'only' V10 and needs a second ascent. I know a few people who've had a look, but so far there have been no takers!

Nigel

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#2 PercyB - Rowtor Info.
December 07, 2002, 04:48:27 pm
Cheers for the reply - good to know that its been done before, I would have been dismayed if it hadn't! Good problem, sharp crimps sounds about right!

I can't believe that roof hasn't been done! The landing is a bit awkward, but what a line, I'll try it next time I'm there. I'll try Domes sit-start aswell, I just hope the starting ledge is dry, it was wet on Thursday. Good effort, it looks amazing...

Nigel

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#3 PercyB - Rowtor Info.
December 11, 2002, 04:48:49 pm
Percy, I was at Rowtor again the other day and noticed that your "sharp crimps" description of the "sit-start" problem on the Dissolution block matched a lot better with the problem which starts sitting at the RH end of the block, just left of the R arete. There is always chalk on this and it was obviously done ages ago.

The problem I did started directly beneath the mantle problem in the centre of the block, between Dissolution and Raw Power, and only has one tiny sharp crimp (right hand). There wasn't any chalk on it at all when I did it, that's the reason I was curious about it. I thought V8+ was about right. Are we on about the same problem?

Sorry to bother you again (I've just got an inquisitive disposition!)...

Percy B

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#4 PercyB - Rowtor Info.
December 11, 2002, 07:40:02 pm
Aye. Thats the one. There is an easier version which takes the crimps on the RH end of the wall, but the direct further left has also been done. I think V8+ sums the whole thing up pretty well, and it does have an excedingly sharp grip on it! :o

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#5 PercyB - Rowtor Info.
December 16, 2002, 02:39:36 pm
Im heading off to rowtor and eagle on thursday any body about who knows the area very good? Would be good go there with a local?

James are you about?

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#6 PercyB - Rowtor Info.
December 16, 2002, 04:05:56 pm
Yeah, Im around.  We can get on that route if you like, I will get the beta off dan or you can go for an  onsight .  I will be finished school at 12.40 at the latest.  Give me a ring and we'll sort it out.
Cheers

James

 

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