[ghisino]

So, i've ticked and objective and need to plan a next.

For various reasons that would take too long to explain, for the next 3 to 6 months i'd go with a kind of objective i've not trained for in the last years...

i want to improve the level at which i consistently get an easy tick. Let's say no more than 3 individual tries for a boulder problem, onsight sport (second go/flash only for very tricky stuff with truly hidden holds or crazy beta).

"consistently" means that this should be the grade at which i perform on fairly bad attempts : bad conditions, unbrushed holds, tired after a long day(or night), slightly overtrained, slightly heavier than ideal, didn't rest enough from previous attempt, didn't look at it carefully enough from the ground....you get the picture.

In brit terms, the grade i'd be comfortable and and reasonably safe ground-up tradding, knowing that i have very little trad experience.
Or the boulder grade on which i can reasonably highball.

or if you want to be statistical, the grade at which 90% of my attempts end with a success under the previously stated "rules".


it applies to outdoor climbing and maybe even more to plastic : i slightly err on the "weak bastard" side, ie my performances on actual rock can be relatively impressive when compared with my indoor sessions and viceversa (though i'd say that 80% of it is tactics&motivation rather than a true gift/feel for the rock)


I am aware that this is a "bad" objective in many ways and a possible source for paranoia, frustration, plateauing, wars and riots.
And i'm usually better off at more focused, specific objectives (eg trip to a place where 99% of the routes/boulders are in the same style)
so, one of the things where i'd like comments is if you know more "positive" objectives that will result in a grester consistency as a side-effect. (Aiming at some ambitious multipitch stuff maybe???)


the other thing i'm asking is if you have any idea of how pursuing such a thing in a "structured" manner, other than sheer volume of climbing in the most varied styles (with a few hard tries thrown in from time to time just to keep my current "max" levels)


cheers
g

[shark]

Well done on ticking your objective.

In short you want to be more of a better, more consistent all-round climber - "a machine".

This suggests to me a comprehensive 6 month training programme of the sort I did last winter which was put together by Tommy.

The structure was broadly aimed to begin with focussing on Aerobic Capacity (AeroCap) then Anaerobic Capacity (AnCap) sessions at developing a solid training base which is then de-emphasized to focus on the Aerobic Power sessions at the end. AnPower sessions were included throughout. In addition you should include any strength/finger work that addresses specific weaknesses relative to your grade. The combination of good capacity and power should give you depth and the reserves to be more consistent and have more good goes in any given day on diverse routes or problems.

Customising and putting the programme together effectively and following it is much easier said than done.

More info here:

The Science behind Training – Dave Binney
Designing Periodised Training Plans – Tom Randall