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Round the back of Suckers wall - caley (Read 2871 times)

dunnyg

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Round the back of Suckers wall - caley
September 13, 2011, 02:02:41 pm
In the total climbing guide, was having a play round the back of suckers wall today, (pg 118), and did problem 1 + 2.
Are the descriptions mixed up? I did problem 1, starting at the big undercut/pocket, LH up for a little sidepull/edge, RH up to another edge, then top.

I then tried a line a bit to the right, starting from 2 pockets, up for a big side pull and up to the top.

Im a bit confused, as the descriptions seem to be mixed up a bit? Dont think the 2nd one i did was 7b as it says in the guide. Anyone clear this up for me?

cheers

Will Hunt

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#1 Re: Round the back of Suckers wall - caley
September 13, 2011, 02:06:56 pm
I think you're right, Huw. I've tried those before and there was something mixed up. Think it was either the grades or the descriptions or both. I made a note in my book but I haven't got it right now. Someone might have more info...

tomtom

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#2 Re: Round the back of Suckers wall - caley
September 13, 2011, 02:09:35 pm
I thought this thread was a suggestion for an illicit meeting up at the Crag ;)

Wheres Stallioni when you need a good double entendre..

sjw

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#3 Re: Round the back of Suckers wall - caley
September 13, 2011, 04:44:05 pm
We thought they were the wrong way round, descriptions and grades. That's what especially like about that guide, it doubles as a puzzle book.

andy_e

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#4 Re: Round the back of Suckers wall - caley
September 13, 2011, 05:06:38 pm
And it's great for those training to be English teachers, what with all the mistakes to spot!

surfchimpster

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#5 Re: Round the back of Suckers wall - caley
September 13, 2011, 05:32:00 pm
The descriptions are correct but the photo puts em in wrong place i think..

This one is the first one ..

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__suckers_7#photo;n=0

The next one slightly to the right starts off the the same undercut/pinch and goes up to 2 v small edges then a snap to the top and is great is one of my favs here abouts and is about 7b

hope this helps .. sorry no guide on me

tommytwotone

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#6 Re: Round the back of Suckers wall - caley
September 13, 2011, 06:32:23 pm
Wheres Stallioni when you need a good double entendre..

I'm sure he'll be along in a minute, eager to give you one...
« Last Edit: September 13, 2011, 06:44:32 pm by tommytwotone »

dunnyg

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#7 Re: Round the back of Suckers wall - caley
September 14, 2011, 12:00:39 am
Yeah, thats the one i thought was the easier one. Tried the 7B, but the second hold you go to, i can just about hold, but cant move off.

Did a line a bit to the right of this, starting off 2 low down pockets, not brilliant but usable, then a big move up slightlt  left to a gaston sidepull, then up to the top. Think the guide might have got confused with this one too. Will get some finger strength then get back on that 7B!
Out of interest, on the 7B do you go up right then right again, or 2nd time go with left,  then top?

surfchimpster

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#8 Re: Round the back of Suckers wall - caley
September 14, 2011, 11:48:18 am
sit start..left hand pinchy undercut.. right hand up to good crimp...left hand up to first v small crimp ( Left heel behind flake keeps you in ) then right hand up to even smaller crimp out right.. remove heel .. pop for the top with right .. very satisfying

webbo

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#9 Re: Round the back of Suckers wall - caley
September 15, 2011, 09:14:12 am
Isn't the one off the pockets v6 in the guide.

highrepute

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#10 Re: Round the back of Suckers wall - caley
September 15, 2011, 11:24:23 am
I understood

v6 for the pocket problem, the one on the right.

And Font 6b+ for the one on the left with small crimps.

The v8, or Font7b is an eliminate on the 6b+.

but in both the rockfax and new guide it's v. confusing

 

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