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This weekend, sport climbing on Welsh slate? (Read 2616 times)

gremlin

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This weekend, sport climbing on Welsh slate?
August 25, 2011, 08:59:14 pm
I was thinking of going down to North Wales (Australia?) and doing some slate sport routes this weekend.
Can anyone give me a heads up on what to expect?
What's parking like? Is it likely to be busy (bank holiday weekend)? Is it worth going at all?
Also, what length of rope is required and how many QD's should I take?

Ta.

remus

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Havent really done enough to help with most of your queries, but Ive never had a problem parking by Bus Stop. Might be worth getting there in reasonable time (before 10) given its a bank holiday but it shouldnt be a big problem.

TobyD

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Can anyone give me a heads up on what to expect?
Is it worth going at all?
Also, what length of rope is required and how many QD's should I take?

some great, atmospheric routes dotted around in a wierd, oddly beautiful environment; yes it is worth going! Looning the Tube is a good starter (with a couple of bits of gear) and the surrounding sporty things are good entertainment. G'day Arete is  an excellent 6c, as is the other 6c on the same level. I doubt the Gday arete level would be busy: you have to walk up a few steps to get there! (it's well worth the stroll!) There's a decent 6b ish thing up there too, and proabably a whole lot of other stuff i havn't done. For all mentioned routes, a 50 would be fine, and i'd take a small rack with you to maximise route choice - as even pretty much sport routes sometimes benefit from a wire / cam or two.

tomtom

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I've not been to Australia (in N.Wales..) but really liked stuff in Vivian.. theres the Dervish etc.. which will get traffic - but last Tango in Paris is a great E2 with piss easy gear, Psychotherapy is good to warm up on down below, and on the much under-rated Concience slab just around the corner from the Dervish area is the superb 'Is it a crime' and 'Never as good as the first time'. the LH one (is it a crime?) has one or two of the best moves I've ever done on Slate on it. Mind you thats not saying much.. (2-3 bolts on each).

You can also see if its dry from the window in Petes if it rains..

BUT, all the honey pot parking sites (esp in the pass) will be horribly busy I expect. Prepare for caravan rage.

Paul B

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I'm expecting the slate to be very busy this weekend (as it seems to have been the last few times I visited). The fact is that apart from Portland, there's nowhere else in the UK that offers so much (bolted) stuff in the lower grade ranges. This attracts crowds and the area's above looning get pretty busy anyway.

Despite this I'm thinking that Twll Mawr will stay relatively quiet.

When toby says wires, he means small wires and RPs/Offsets. I can second his suggestions and add Horse Latitude and Gerbil Abuse (see the slate wiki) to the list. The direct versions of looning might also be worth a look and there's quite a long route on the upper tier above this (you'll se it as its very popular) which is worth a look. State of the Heart, Nurenburg level is also VERY good (although a little stiff if you're a little short).

Pantontino

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Australia will probably be busy (apart from the East Braich as Toby said).

I would probably opt for the rainbow walls lower area/rainbow slab/Collossus area. You can park (for free) in the lay-by at the Nant Peris end of Llyn peris and walk in via the main path which zig zags up to Twll Mawr, just break off left at the first sharp right bend and walk across the plateau past peppermint tower - this takes about 20-25 minutes

Lots of good routes to do here with a decent spread of grades from F6a/E1 upwards. The big routes on the colossus wall will probably be seeping this weekend, but plenty of other quick drying things to go at.

al123

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defiantly avoid bus stop quarry and seams the same slab!! both can be busy with the top rope brigade! pretty much goes without saying but just incase.

Hoseyb

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I'm going to be out somewhere on slate on Saturday, Probably Rainbow as Mr P say's. spect you've already left, but post if you want a guide of sorts, and If i'm still awake I'll pm you


hosey

gremlin

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Thanks, for the offer mate.
Sadly, I bailed due to the bad weather.
Hopefully will get down there sometime soon (if it ever stops pissing it down).

 

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