[Fultonius]

Right folks, off to El Chorro in October but not sure which shoes to take,as I don't really ever climb the lime.

I've got the choice of:

5.10 Dragons. Super Small so only good for super steep routes (too painfull on anything under 15 degrees)
5.10 Anasazi White. I'm pretty sure I'll take these as I find them quite good all round. Will they be too stiff?
Evolve Pontas Velcro. Comfy, soft.
Scarpa Magos. Like climbing in clogs but powerfull. I'm more prone to mistakes with these on.

Any other thoughts?  What's your favourite?  Grades Easy to F7c.

[tommytwotone]

I think it was Carlise Slapper who said that you can climb pretty much anything in a pair of 5:10 Velcros...my experience would tend to agree with this theory!

NB as long as that "pretty much anything" doesn't involve too much heelhooking.

[Nibile]

can't you bring them all? not much more room needed.
anyway I'd say Dragons and Whites.

[Paul B]

can't you bring them all? not much more room needed.
anyway I'd say Dragons and Whites.

No nibs Ryanair have a strictly one pair only policy 

[Will Hunt]

Don't forget a comfy pair and a small trad rack for the long classics. Zeppelin is a stunning line and must be done if you can get through the tunnels when the guards are off duty.

[Drewski Rootbitch]

... if you can get through the tunnels when the guards are off duty.

I think the guards are there to shoot the people who take trad racks to Chorro

[robertostallioni]

Unless you're climbing on the walkway, you'll be ok in wellies.

[Will Hunt]

Downturned wellies mind.

[Fultonius]

Unless you're climbing on the walkway, you'll be ok in wellies.

Cheers for the advice, I'll get some of these:



Fuck yeah, composite toe and everything - 8a Flash IS ON!

[robertostallioni]

Guapa.

[Will Hunt]

Guapo 

[Fultonius]

How funny. I just searched for threads on Best Scarpas for Lime and found this thread, that I had no recollection of starting!

And.

I'm asking the same thing, 6 years later, for the same destination!  Off to El Chorro with the missus. I currently have:

Boostics - great when it's edgy but I think possibly too stiff?
Instinct slipper  - I'll probably take these
Styx - could be ok? Haven't worn them in ages.

What's the best of the current range for 7s to low 8s on lime?  Instinct VS/VSR?

[p.s. I never did get through the crippling pain of the dragons, pretty much gave them away in the end]

[Paul B]

My VSRs have become my boot of choice. I wore them all summer on the lime and used an end of life pair to do a 7 pitch route the other day.

If you find them a little soft (if you're not a waif?) then I assume the VS or the lace-ups would be a good choice.

[Duncan campbell]

I really like the sportiva otakis - for me they are really comfortably and yet also perform as good or better than any other shoe I’ve used.

This year I have used the same (sized) pair to climb up to 8a in Spain, 7c+ at malham ( probably a more stern test of a shoes ability. Done loads of trad up to E5 and used them on 500m long 7b+ routes in taghia. After which they were uncomfortable but not that bad considering I’d consider them my performance shoes.

To me they felt like a cross between whites and miura vs if that means anything to you...?

[Fultonius]

To me they felt like a cross between whites and miura vs if that means anything to you...?

Ha, unfortunately for me that means a cross between a shoe that doesn't fit (muira) and one that falls to bits and goes all soft and noodly withing a month.

Joking aside, if I can find a pair I'll give it a shot since I didn't finally manage to get a pair of sportivas to fit last year (tc Pro).

Paul, I'm 76kg and generally used to stiff shoes, but I'm keen to embrace something that relies aittle more of foot strength to gain some more sensitivity.

How much softer is a VSR than the old orange Instinct Slippers? I find then great when I want some more feel instead of pure edging power.

[Nutty]

Are the VSRs softer than the Instinct S? Both use XS Grip 2 (rather than the XS Edge of the VS and lace), but the VSR sole is 3.5mm vs. the 3mm of the Instinct S? I've only used the Instinct S of the two, so can't compare myself.

[Duncan campbell]

To me they felt like a cross between whites and miura vs if that means anything to you...?

Ha, unfortunately for me that means a cross between a shoe that doesn't fit (muira) and one that falls to bits and goes all soft and noodly withing a month.

I meant in how they climb; they were better all-rounders than the miura vs (which I found very aggressive and painful) but have more power in the toe than whites. Plus they have a long window of being good to climb in.

Fit wise they are wider than both whites and miuras and way more comfortable