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Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free (Read 107937 times)

duncan

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Great stuff again jwi.

Yossarian, the SE Diedre of the Fleischbank is in Extreme Alpine Rock (Im Extrem Fels). I can scan the pages if you like. Herman Buhl mentions it several times in Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage including his solo and seems to have enjoyed it.

Yossarian

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TBH alpine limestone has always filled me with dread vs granite. I think if we were to consider it there are plenty of lower stress / easier access routes around Europe that we ought to try first!

jwi

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duncan

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TBH alpine limestone has always filled me with dread vs granite. I think if we were to consider it there are plenty of lower stress / easier access routes around Europe that we ought to try first!

My limited experience of the Alpine limestone classics (eg Yellow Edge, Sella Towers and Piz Ciavazes) is the climbing can resemble a bigger Stoney Middleton with better views.  Some of the less celebrated modern sport routes are (whisper) much better...

lukas_s

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Anything specific you want to know? I have climbed quite a few routes on that face. Its quite a big wall with a lot of routes in very different styles. The most famous route on the east face itself is the South-East dihidral (Südostverschneidung) (as already mention an "extreme rock route") - and its really good as well. But theres also a lot less well known routes, from old classics to modern sportroutes and scary trad-climbs from the 80s.
The first UIAA 7, Pumprisse, in the Alps is also on Fleischbank (though not on the east face, but on the "Fleischbankpfeiler"). Thats also where "Des Kaisers neue Kleider", the famous Glowacz route is. .
I think the route Buhl solod was the "Wiesner/Rossi" (Südost-Wand) but not 100% sure.

jwi

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I have compiled a list of Twenty-five routes well worth doing in the Verdon, and some practical advice on gear/raps etc, might be of interest in this context?

SA Chris

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Good article.

Interestingly

Quote
Il giochi de prestigio is Italian for “a game of prestige”, i.e. stage magic. (In English as well has French prestige has lost its original sense of ‘conjuring tricks’, if I am not mistaken).

is true apart from resurrecting it for the film title, which i think caused a bit of confusion.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Prestige_(film)

A bit like the "III" being dropped from the film version of The Madness of King George, so audiences didn't think it was a sequel..


jwi

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good knowledge!

Yossarian

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I have compiled a list of Twenty-five routes well worth doing in the Verdon, and some practical advice on gear/raps etc, might be of interest in this context?

That’s brilliant! Haven’t been to Verdon since the late 90s but that brings it all back (mostly in a good way)...

SA Chris

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It is an amazing place. Did a 2 day hit when passing, L'Eperon Sublime and La Demande, first experience of multi-pitch sport.

jwi

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The second volume of Mussato's œuvre Itinéraires d'un grimpeur gâté (itineraries of a spoiled climber) has recently been published. The first volume is a great classic with 104 routes where the criteria for inclusion is very close to OP

Inclusion criteria are great climbs of ~8 pitches or longer with minimal death potential.  I'm not keen on freezing in a storm or being hit by lumps of rock or ice and crevassed approaches void my BMC insurance (plug for sponsors).  BHAGs could stretch as far as E6 trad. and 7b-ish sport.  Routes should be mostly free, a little sneaky cheating is acceptable. 

Philippe Mussato himself has put up hundreds of multipitch routes in all grades up to 8b+ in the area, including famous routes like Ali Baba in Aiglun.

In Mussato's books routes of a wide span of difficulties between 5c and 8a+ are included, most of them at least 8 pitches and nothing with glacier approach. All routes are in the French alps (if the Calanques are a part of the alps...). Every route mentioned has a usable topo and detailed approach and access descriptions. Around a third of the routes in the book are partly or entirely on natural protection, the rest are fully or almost fully bolted.

Volume 2 contains 132 routes. Like in the first volume, for each route a grade E1-E4 details how far it is between the points of protections and a grade F1 (12 mm stainless bolts) to F6 (no fixed gear) gives information of the quality of fixed gear.

So far I have only really used volume 1. I have only done a handful of routes of the selection in the second volume, most have been very good and one of which I do not think should be included in a book of this type, but I'll report back when I have used the book more. (I would trust Mussato's opinions over mine anyway)

duncan

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Thanks jwi.

When Graham Hoey was promoting his Gritstone guidebook the second half of his talk consisted of adventures on some of the routes in Musatto's vol. one. I'm afraid to say I found this more inspiring than his gritstone exploits!

cheque

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for each route a grade E1-E4 details how far it is between the points of protection

It’ll never catch on.

Johnny Brown

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Book sounds great.

Quote
for each route a grade E1-E4 details how far it is between the points of protections and a grade F1 (12 mm stainless bolts) to F6 (no fixed gear) gives information of the quality of fixed gear.

But no indication as to whether the gaps are easy or impossible to protect with your own gear?

jwi

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Book sounds great.

Quote
for each route a grade E1-E4 details how far it is between the points of protections and a grade F1 (12 mm stainless bolts) to F6 (no fixed gear) gives information of the quality of fixed gear.

But no indication as to whether the gaps are easy or impossible to protect with your own gear?

If so, it is described in the text, usually in a vague terms like "a few friends might be useful to lessen the runouts on the easier pitches" giving the impression that the author definitely did not bring any gear. To be fair, many of the routes would require gear wizardry on a level rarely found on the continent to significantly improve the security.

Routes requiring gear, indicated with TA (for "terrain d'adventure") or TAP (for "terrain d'adventure protégé" for mostly bolted routes), are also given a grade E1-E4 depending on how spaced the protection is. Only on routes indicated by TAP a specific rack is given.

jwi

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Thanks jwi.

When Graham Hoey was promoting his Gritstone guidebook the second half of his talk consisted of adventures on some of the routes in Musatto's vol. one. I'm afraid to say I found this more inspiring than his gritstone exploits!

It looks like there are some excellent adventures to be found by following the recommendations in the second volume as well!

Fultonius

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Strone / Sron? :)

Elsewhere in Scotland there are a couple of routes on the Main Bastion of the Shelterstone that run to 8 pitches or so and are 3* routes; Haystack E3, Steeple E2, The Needle E1, Stone Bastion E5. Not done them myself, but they look excellent. There are a few on Creag an Dubh Loch too, although most of the harder routes only run to 5 or 6 pitches.

Also The Spire at E4 (basically a 2 pitch variation of either The Steeple or Haystack) and the newer route called The Heel Stone.
Did The Spire yesterday, which was a wake up to the senses - clearly my Cairngorm granite-foo is weak, got up it but was pretty out of ideas in a few sections. Nearly peeled off the "4b" second pitch (5b/c), and the big nuts decided they had had enough mid crux and decided to unclip themselves from my harness and run for freedom. Back to the car at 11pm - proper day out!   :great: :great:

Left shoulder feeling a bit poorly, but nothing major I think. Deffo a nudge too short in stature to really feel like the "mini bigwalls" of the thread, but a perfect proving ground and mini adventure in it's own right.

SA Chris

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I have (had while the weather was good) a hankering for something long in the mountains, still not been to Dubh Loch.

Apparently it looked like a mini festival camp up there over the warm spell, about a dozen folk camped by the shore.

Fultonius

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I have (had while the weather was good) a hankering for something long in the mountains, still not been to Dubh Loch.

Apparently it looked like a mini festival camp up there over the warm spell, about a dozen folk camped by the shore.

Aye, even Friday there were 10 or so tents. Went to Beinn a Bhuird for Freebird with Andy on Saturday - nice to get that one done - great fun!

 

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