Great stuff again jwi.
TBH alpine limestone has always filled me with dread vs granite. I think if we were to consider it there are plenty of lower stress / easier access routes around Europe that we ought to try first!
Il giochi de prestigio is Italian for “a game of prestige”, i.e. stage magic. (In English as well has French prestige has lost its original sense of ‘conjuring tricks’, if I am not mistaken).
I have compiled a list of Twenty-five routes well worth doing in the Verdon, and some practical advice on gear/raps etc, might be of interest in this context?
Inclusion criteria are great climbs of ~8 pitches or longer with minimal death potential. I'm not keen on freezing in a storm or being hit by lumps of rock or ice and crevassed approaches void my BMC insurance (plug for sponsors). BHAGs could stretch as far as E6 trad. and 7b-ish sport. Routes should be mostly free, a little sneaky cheating is acceptable.
for each route a grade E1-E4 details how far it is between the points of protection
for each route a grade E1-E4 details how far it is between the points of protections and a grade F1 (12 mm stainless bolts) to F6 (no fixed gear) gives information of the quality of fixed gear.
Book sounds great.Quotefor each route a grade E1-E4 details how far it is between the points of protections and a grade F1 (12 mm stainless bolts) to F6 (no fixed gear) gives information of the quality of fixed gear.But no indication as to whether the gaps are easy or impossible to protect with your own gear?
Thanks jwi.When Graham Hoey was promoting his Gritstone guidebook the second half of his talk consisted of adventures on some of the routes in Musatto's vol. one. I'm afraid to say I found this more inspiring than his gritstone exploits!
Strone / Sron? Elsewhere in Scotland there are a couple of routes on the Main Bastion of the Shelterstone that run to 8 pitches or so and are 3* routes; Haystack E3, Steeple E2, The Needle E1, Stone Bastion E5. Not done them myself, but they look excellent. There are a few on Creag an Dubh Loch too, although most of the harder routes only run to 5 or 6 pitches.
I have (had while the weather was good) a hankering for something long in the mountains, still not been to Dubh Loch.Apparently it looked like a mini festival camp up there over the warm spell, about a dozen folk camped by the shore.
I did La Demande in 1980 on my second Verdon trip when this style really clicked for me. A really enjoyable experience. Had to rescue a well-known South West (England) activist benighted in the final chimneys on the same trip. He wouldn't be the last.
Bad Behavior has blocked 2417 access attempts in the last 7 days.