the shizzle > chuffing
Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free
duncan:
After the Comici in July I’m compiling my bucket list of similar routes to keep me syked during the next few months of bouldering walls and occasional day-trips to Swanage.
Inclusion criteria are great climbs of ~8 pitches or longer with minimal death potential. I'm not keen on freezing in a storm or being hit by lumps of rock or ice and crevassed approaches void my BMC insurance (plug for sponsors). BHAGs could stretch as far as E6 trad. and 7b-ish sport. Routes should be mostly free, a little sneaky cheating is acceptable.
I have in mind things like the Rabada-Navarro on Naranjo de Bulnes or The Scenic Cruise. Routes that might make it into a less Franco-centric version of the Parois du Legend books: Europe and the Rest of the World (16 in total so far, since you ask). Don Quixote is on the list (a bit of glacier on the descent but no need for axe, crampons or crevasse stuff) but Elixier d’Astaroth is not (weather and crevasses).
shark:
I doubt that there are many more knowledgable than you on these sort of routes but I'll throw in Pat Littlejohn's original E4 route on Kjerrag, Lotus Flower Tower, various in Verdon and Rainbow Bridge.
andy popp:
Can't recommend Naranjo highly enough, it fits the bill perfectly - not only Rabada-Navarro but also Murciana (7a/A0 or 7c+/8a). If not the Capucin then how about West Face of the Blatiere? Brown/Whillans is one of the best routes I've ever done: period. Of the harder stuff Fidel Fiasco was class. The front slab on the Peigne is also very good, though obvious and probably too popular.
metal arms:
Would something like Oceano Irrazionale on the Asteroidi, Mello fit the bill?
http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Oceano_Irrazionale_510.html
account_inactive:
--- Quote from: andy popp on September 01, 2011, 10:07:20 am ---Can't recommend Naranjo highly enough, it fits the bill perfectly - not only Rabada-Navarro but also Murciana (7a/A0 or 7c+/8a). If not the Capucin then how about West Face of the Blatiere? Brown/Whillans is one of the best routes I've ever done: period. Of the harder stuff Fidel Fiasco was class. The front slab on the Peigne is also very good, though obvious and probably too popular.
--- End quote ---
I 2nd all of these suggestions!
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