[Will Hunt]

So starting low in the slot, head up to the cluster of pockets (quite a big one there), then take the right hand dish of Vitalite, cross through to the peg scar with the left, then somehow a big move up to the break.

Does this sound right? It felt well harder than V3. I also suspect that using the jug in the left hand pocket cluster is wrong and I should be on the low dish in which case it will be much harder!

[Jim]

no jugs from what i remember, use the tri cluster of slopey dishes, then out to the little crimp break then the big break. never done it without the little crimp

[andy popp]

Start both hands in the slot, feet on and then up with right hand to lowest of the triple cluster, both feet up a little and cross left hand over into top right hand pocket of the cluster, get right foot up a bit more. The tricky bits is now unwinding your right arm and shoulder without pushing yourself off the wall. Once this is done its easy to get the little peg pocket with your right and left foot up for simple pull/rock to the break: nice problem. Without the pocket is a really lovely bit of flowing movement.

[Will Hunt]

Thanks for that. I will return prepared to have a dented ego, this sounds tricky for v3!

[fatneck]

Aye, tis tricky for V3 until you've got the Pex Flow going on!

I employ a slightly controversial method which avoids crossing under to the peg scar by going left hand to the lowest sloper of the cluster then bringing right hand up to the right handhold of the cluster then sorting feet out and going again to the peg scar before bringing the left hand into the right handhold then going right hand to the break, but I'm pretty sure this won't get you the proper tick 

Ben and O have great beta on the direct without the peg scar, something to do with a high left foot, but I doubt I'll ever do it, it's the living end! Owen reckons the direct is the same grade but then he can reach the top break with his feet on the lower break which I reckon takes a grade off all the eliminates on that wall...

Not that I'm bitter or anything...

[Will Hunt]

What a git