[chips]

I think it'd be useful to know roughly what grade various strength feats are.  This is because it's often easy to think, ah, just need to be stronger, when in many cases, this isn't the case, you just need better technique.  If you can do most strength feats up to 7c but are only climbing 7a, you can get an idea that your technique needs work.  And vice versa.  Also, your peer group may be disproportionately strong/good technique for their grades.

If I get a few answers, I'll maths it up and average it, keep it in font grades if you can.

Thanks very much

Therefore, venture some grades (there are a lot of them so if you don't know/can’t do some just skip them) for:

Pull ups (on a big, flat edge):
1
3
5
10
20

One armers (on a big edge, think the biggest flat edge on beastmaker):
1
3
5


Beastmaker (2 handed):

hang for a set of repeaters (6X 7sec on, 3 off):
big edge
small edge
big pockets (front 2)
big pockets (middle 2)
big pockets (back 2)
small pockets (front 2)
small pockets (middle 2)
small pockets (back 2)
slopey pockets
big mono
small mono
slopey mono

beastmaker, dead hang for 5 sec, 2 handed:

big edge
small edge
big pockets (front 2)
big pockets (middle 2)
big pockets (back 2)
small pockets (front 2)
small pockets (middle 2)
small pockets (back 2)
slopey pockets
big mono
small mono
slopey mono




Campus:

1-2-3
1-3-4
1-3-5
1-4-6
1-4-7
1-5-8
1-5-9


Beastmaker boys gave it a go already:

Hang the sloper 45s with no thumb or nestle for 30 seconds or more: font 8a PROJECT

One armer the 45s with thumb & nestle font 8a+ PROJECT

One armer the 45s with no thumb or nestle: font 8b+ PROJECT

One arm the slopey pockets on middle 2: font 8a+ PROJECT

One arm the slopey pockets on front 2: font 8b PROJECT

One arm the slopey pockets on back 2: font 8c PROJECT

One arm the 1 pad monos middle: font 8a PROJECT

One arm the 1 pad monos ring: font 8b PROJECT

One arm the 1 pad monos index: font 8b PROJECT

 

One arm the 1 pad monos pinky: font 8b+ PROJECT

One arm the little pockets middle 2 Font 7c+ PROJECT

One arm the little pockets front 2 Font 7c+ PROJECT

One arm the little pockets back 2 font 8a+ PROJECT

One arm the little rung 3 finger drag: font 7c

One arm the little rung back 3 finger ½ crimp: font 7c+ PROJECT

One arm the little rung back 3 finger ½ crimp: font 7c+ PROJECT

One arm Right eye 3 finger drag font 7b

One arm Right eye 3 finger front 3 half crimp font 7c

One arm Right eye 3 finger back3 half crimp font 7c

One arm incut rung 3 finger drag, font 7a+

One arm incut rung 3 finger full crimp font 7a+

One arm incut rung 3 finger half crimp font 7b

[BB]

Oh dear. 

Shall we let Dense respond to this one?

[a dense loner]

clearly if you can't 3 finger drag one-arm the big hold on the beastmaker, or any hold of roughly the same size, then you haven't climbed font 7a+. the rest is not worth talking about

[lagerstarfish]

maths......... average........ grades

lol

[tomtom]

Sounds like you should be using V grades.....

[moose]

I think what you need is the grade equation, calculated by Ben Moon using some spare variables that he found in Stephen Hawking's litter bin:

f(Grade) = g[Sum{(B)^3/2 x (C) x d}] / [(H)^1.5 x F x M]

where:
B = Brutality of each move
C = crimp power required
d = distance between holds
H = Height coefficient (itself a function of the lank coefficient and the bunch factor)
F = amenability of move to footworky shenannigens
M = the McClure gumption factor
g = ineffable mystery of gritstone coefficient (conditions and knack dependency)

I guarantee that correct use of this equation will yield font grade correct to 3 decimal places.  It allows you to grade problems from your armchair with ease and accuracy.  Far more convenient than that business of physically trying things out and making your own comparissons.... so primitive... so subjective.....

[tomtom]

Hmm... I'm interested by g, and how it relates to Ls (the limestone slickness factor aka ferking polish of doom) and Lh the limestone humidity index. We could also bring in the FAT factor which is losely related to BMI.. as well as the Co (Copley) likelihood of grade inflation index.

So I'll go for..

For gritstone
f(Grade) = (Co x g[Sum{(B)^3/2 x (C) x d}] / [(H)^1.5 x F x M]) / FAT

and for Lime
f(Grade) = (Ls ^ 1.33 x Lh ^ 3 x C^2) / (d/H)

Note, the use of a cubic function to incorporate sticky damp(tm) and a slight modification to allow d to be compensated by H.

[Fultonius]

Further modified for use at Dumbarton:

(Grade) = [DFC+NF]*[Sum{(B)^3/2 x (C) x d}] / [(H)^1.3333 x F x LKF^3/2]

where:
B = Brutality of each move
C = crimp power required
d = distance between holds
H = Height coefficient (itself a function of the lank coefficient and the bunch factor)
F = amenability of move to footworky shenannigens
DFC - Dumby Friction Coefficient  (The mysterious Dumby Friction Factor - very transient and can change the grade day by day. Range: 0.5 to 1.5)
 NF - Ned Factor (Also variable, depending on the number of broken bucky bottles, crushed glass on hidden holds, lairy drunk kids etc - can tend the grade towards infinity. Typically around 0.5, but can drop lower after a major cleanup operation -  The NF hit 100+ the day that two neds got stuck on the top of the highest boulder and the fire-brigade, police, coastguard helicopter and mountain rescue were all called in to help them down. In the end Sonnie Trotter lowered a harness down from halfway up Rhapsody to get them down. Climbing was futile, grades were impossible.)
LKF - Local Knowledge Factor (Similar to the "g" factor for gritstone. Has been known to ground the strongest of outsiders)

[moose]

NF - Ned Factor (Also variable, depending on the number of broken bucky bottles, crushed glass on hidden holds, lairy drunk kids etc -

NF looks similar to a modifier I use when climbing at Shipley or Woodhouse Scar.  It's a committment factor that allows for known risks in the landing zone that punish failure (broken bottles, pit-bull shit) and the trepidation surrounding a move due to the assumed likehood of glass / used condoms etc on the target hold.  Also allows for the possibility that, if an accident occurs, any passers-by asked for help will steal your car.

[Eddies]

www.8a.nu
www.ukclimbing.com

 

[Jaspersharpe]

NF - Ned Factor

In The Peak this is different and similar to VF (Varian Factor) where any grades mentioned by the protagonist in question should be completely ignored or added to by at least +1/1.5.

[dobbin]

you get Ned factor in the peak as well. Usually this results from Ned stood in the sun with his shirt off, the resulting reflection is enough to bore holes in granite (which of course the peak crags are made from :

(stolen from PWhiddy facebook)

[tomtom]

Tsk, everyone knows the Peak is made of cheese not granite.. bloody amateurs..

[Stabbsy]

There's also a Yorkshire Classics Adjustment, such that anything that was "done years ago" remains at Font 6a or below, irrespective of how hard it actually is. This applies in a similar way to the Copley coefficient (although in the opposite direction). It's impact is proportional to distance from LS1, so has more of an effect at Caley and Almscliff than at Brimham.