[Potash]

Climbed a lovely'ish 7a on a hugely overhanging wall up massive jugs.

It would be worth three stars if:

• It was not in dank hole in the ground
  
• I bothered to clean it properly
  
• Midges didn't adore the place
  

It does have solid rock with good moves. 

[grimer]

Is that what you would call a balanced assessment?

[Tb]

Took a look at this sport route last night, looks good fun and covers some very steep ground, hopefully I’ll get to try it soon.

I’ve looked at Jug Holes as a climbing venue for a number of years and eventually got round to cleaning a few lines here earlier this year. As the site is a SSSI I’d got hold of a copy of the DCA  ‘Jug Holes Interpretation Pack’ which was supported by English Nature. Whilst conservation issues and guidelines for caving group use are covered, climbing or bolting are not specifically mentioned, but we felt it best to test the water by doing only minimal cleaning and taking a trad approach for starters. Back in June I persuaded dpb along to climb the ‘easy extreme’ left to right traverse of the lip after I’d fallen off it.  It’s a lot stepper than it looks from the ground. Any comments from folk repeating this would be appreciated.  After receiving a call the other night that the 'cat was out of the bag' regarding Jug Holes I nipped over to climb the easier higher traverse line, again I’ve no idea of the grade HVS/E1 5b? but again a great position and a tad steep, cheers for the belay Marc 

Unicorn Crossing E46a?

In the main cave/mine entrance or 2nd Water Cavern which faces north.  Starting on blocks high up on the left of the entrance, traverse the lower line to finish via the sentry box in the middle of the roof. FA Dave Bond 10 July 2011





Cerberus HVS/E1 5b?

Start as for Unicorn Crossing but move up to follow the higher traverse line. FA Tim Banton 23 August 2011

[Bonjoy]

Are there two cave entrances here? Funnily enough I went to check the place out for potential only last week (before seeing this thread) on a vague tip-off from a climber at work. The cave entrance I saw didn't look quite like the one in the pic but did have some potential for steep route including a l-r trad rising traverse. Do you have any more pics showing the whole crag?

[Tb]

I'll see if I can sort out some other images later.  The first hole you come to has a l to r trad line, and the new sports routes cuts right through this from a small ledge on the left.  If you continue down the path you come to the other bigger south facing entrance.

[Bonjoy]

Cheers. Looked pretty good. Should be generally nicer there when the leaves are off the trees (assuming it stays dry).

[Tb]

Ok a few more pics to tempt someone in for a repeat, afraid they're not great but should give you an idea.


1st entrance, Sports route follows a line roughly behind the right fork of the tree.


2nd entrance, Trad routes start on left and finish in sentry box.


spot the cavers


Bottom break Unicorn, top Cerberus all a tad steep!

[Potash]

Could people please respect the right hand line as being a 'closed project' until I have an opportunity to try and climb it.

Thanks

[mark20]

Thanks Dave for the original cleaning, bolting and the tip off.
It's a shame it's a dank muddy hole as there is some fun and steep climbing and pathetic childish route names. Early season visitors will probably need to scrape a bit of mud out of the back of the holds, but it's currently all clean and dry. Can badly condense. Pad on rock probably not necessary, but a lantern probably is.
Boob Tube is a great route with lots of upside down swinging around on sculpted jugs and jams. Boob Job is unrepeated and a soft touch 8a.

The Matlock Flatanger

Blue - Breast is Best 6b+ * (FA Bolehillbilly)
Blue dotted - Paridae Parade 6c * (FA Bolehillbilly)
Green - Double D 7a+ ** (FA Dave aka Potash) Excellent
Green dotted - E-Cup 7b *
Green-white-orange - F Route 7b/+
Yellow-red- Boob Tube 7c *** Has had a few repeats
Yellow dotted - Boob Job 8a ** Soft touch
Orange - Underboob 7b (same bolts as Sideboob but taking a lower line using a toe hook)
Orange-white-greendotted - Underwire 7b+/c * (a link up but all the best moves across the lip)
Red - Sideboob 7a * Has been reasonably popular

[Fiend]

Yay, Crapanger!! Did Nessa chew some crayons and barf them over your picture to make a topo??


Here's a video of Double D with some relaxing bird song etc.

[Andy F]

That's some impressive terrain for a 7a+

[Potash]

Glad to see you cleaning up my abandoned project.