Took a look at this sport route last night, looks good fun and covers some very steep ground, hopefully I’ll get to try it soon.
I’ve looked at Jug Holes as a climbing venue for a number of years and eventually got round to cleaning a few lines here earlier this year. As the site is a SSSI I’d got hold of a copy of the DCA ‘Jug Holes Interpretation Pack’ which was supported by English Nature. Whilst conservation issues and guidelines for caving group use are covered, climbing or bolting are not specifically mentioned, but we felt it best to test the water by doing only minimal cleaning and taking a trad approach for starters. Back in June I persuaded dpb along to climb the ‘easy extreme’ left to right traverse of the lip after I’d fallen off it. It’s a lot stepper than it looks from the ground. Any comments from folk repeating this would be appreciated. After receiving a call the other night that the 'cat was out of the bag' regarding Jug Holes I nipped over to climb the easier higher traverse line, again I’ve no idea of the grade HVS/E1 5b? but again a great position and a tad steep, cheers for the belay Marc
Unicorn Crossing E46a?
In the main cave/mine entrance or 2nd Water Cavern which faces north. Starting on blocks high up on the left of the entrance, traverse the lower line to finish via the sentry box in the middle of the roof. FA Dave Bond 10 July 2011
Cerberus HVS/E1 5b?
Start as for Unicorn Crossing but move up to follow the higher traverse line. FA Tim Banton 23 August 2011