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Rockfax peak bouldering guide (Read 18600 times)

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Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 18, 2011, 11:53:10 pm
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=471256

Jasper will love the v-grade bit. Is this not an I'll timed guide after such a great update of the vertebrate version?

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#1 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 12:07:10 am
Mental.

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#2 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 12:33:56 am
for god sake cant someone update the north wales guide book! one peak guide is enough!

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#3 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 07:34:15 am
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=471256

Jasper will love the v-grade bit. Is this not an I'll timed guide after such a great update of the vertebrate version?

Cynical cash-in attempt? At least its being written by Mr Peak Bouldering himself, so no worries there.

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#4 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 07:56:26 am
Annyone's free to write a guide to anywhere, non?

Good luck they'll need to pull something pretty special out of the bag to compete with Cofe, Ru & jonjon's most recent offering.

dave

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#5 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 08:21:27 am
Annyone's free to write a guide to anywhere, non?

yeah but...

Good luck they'll need to pull something pretty special out of the bag to compete with Cofe, Ru & jonjon's most recent offering.

exactly.

No doubt they've done their sums and know that if they can knock it out quickly and cheaply enough they'll make a few bob from the ukc/rockfax fanbois and fontgrade-refuseniks. At least most of the hard and time consuming research work has just been done for them..... (did I say that?).


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#6 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 08:56:34 am
Cynical cash-in attempt? At least its being written by Mr Peak Bouldering himself, so no worries there.

Whoa! Chris Craggs is writing it? get in!

At least a Berry guide will have more generous grades. How much is V24 in font money?

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#7 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 09:12:13 am
Cynical cash-in attempt? At least its being written by Mr Peak Bouldering himself, so no worries there.

Whoa! Chris Craggs is writing it? get in!

At least a Berry guide will have more generous grades. How much is V24 in font money?

6B+

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#8 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 09:12:38 am
Is this not an I'll timed guide after such a great update of the vertebrate version?
No its perfect
They don't need to do any work they can get the new peak guide that has been well research copy the grades and convert with ther patented Rockfax grade conversion chart.
Take some photos of the boulders.
Buy pictures off people who have them on there computer but not used in the other guide.
Find the worst possible and least inspiring picture of a guy bouldering and stick it on the front cover

Guide can be thrown together in a few weeks. sorted!
No thanks given to the guys who did the hard work and put out a detailed guide obviously

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#9 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 09:34:18 am
Cynical cash-in attempt? At least its being written by Mr Peak Bouldering himself, so no worries there.

Whoa! Chris Craggs is writing it? get in!

At least a Berry guide will have more generous grades. How much is V24 in font money?

6B+

i heard it was slightly easier than (Welford 7B)-

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#10 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 10:21:30 am
Quote
I welcome thoughts on grades (we'll be using V grades),

I really doubt you would actually.


Quote
and having a group of mixed abilities trying the problems copying the Vertebrate guide should be a good way of getting a consensus on the grades as they've done shitloads of work doing just that.

This is shit on every level.

Wonder what they're going to do about all the 7B+s?

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#11 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 10:25:52 am
V8+


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#12 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 10:28:50 am
I was hoping for more of a 7B+/7C/V8/9/7c+/8a type cave grade for every problem. Including Pinches Wall.

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#13 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 11:22:45 am
There's parallels with Rockfax's plans to do a North Wales select guide i.e. unecessary as a brilliant guide already exists.  I guess they know they can make money out of it

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#14 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 12:14:36 pm
It wouldn't take much to convert the Rockfax format into an app - with shared ticklists, ascent details, grade opinions etc

I wonder if this will happen?

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#15 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 12:37:34 pm
After extensive and painstaking research I've recently finished photocopying completed a guide to all the 7th and 8th grade problems in Fontainebleau, complete with topos, maps and directions to all the areas. Available in ring binder or "load of sheets in a plastic wallet folder" formats at £10 a throw.

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#16 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 01:07:04 pm
Is this not an I'll timed guide after such a great update of the vertebrate version?
No its perfect
They don't need to do any work they can get the new peak guide that has been well research copy the grades and convert with ther patented Rockfax grade conversion chart.
Take some photos of the boulders.
Buy pictures off people who have them on there computer but not used in the other guide.
Find the worst possible and least inspiring picture of a guy bouldering and stick it on the front cover

Guide can be thrown together in a few weeks. sorted!
No thanks given to the guys who did the hard work and put out a detailed guide obviously

Given that Rockfax had published a Peak bouldering guide before Vertebrate Graphics they could've made the same unfounded accusations themselves.
I doubt very much that it'll be 'thrown together' in a few weeks, I suspect it'll be over a year until it's on the shelves, and it will be selling to a very different market than the VG guide - casual boulderers that don't understand V grades eg: the london market.

dave

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#17 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 01:25:56 pm
Given that Rockfax had published a Peak bouldering guide before Vertebrate Graphics they could've made the same unfounded accusations themselves.

The rockfax guide came out when '97, '98? Then there was a massive explosion in the popularity of bouldering and a shit load of development, then the Vert guide came out in 2005, a whole 7 or 8 years later. Hardly the same situation as now.

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#18 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 01:38:26 pm
Aren't all guide book authors "Standing on the shoulders of giants" to some extent (although some giants are clearly bigger than others).

No one's criticising VG for their offering of selected  Peak routes, which might be considered encroaching on Rockfax' Eastern/Western Grit guides, which themselves can't beat the classic BMC offering "On Peak Rock" as a select guide to the area, or the brilliant definitive guides.

Consequences of a free market, blah, blah blah.

Little point in moaning about it, better to vote with your wallet (and encourage others to do so, so I guess this thread might help in with that)

dave

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#19 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 01:54:08 pm
Aren't all guide book authors "Standing on the shoulders of giants" to some extent (although some giants are clearly bigger than others).

There's a difference between standing on shoulders and treading heels.

I imagine if Vertibrate had waded in with a selective guidebook of classic grit routes called "Eastern Gritstone" just a few months after rockfax brought out "Eastern Grit" there might have been eyebrows raised though. (Well, there would have been if the rockfax guide had actually been any good.)

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#20 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 01:59:56 pm
treading on heels? how do you tread on someone's heels? toes I can understand, but this takes street jive talk to a new level

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#21 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 02:00:55 pm
I guess if VG feel hard done by they'll be able to get an injunction or sue for infringement of copyright/intellectual property.

Perhaps the best thing would be not to give any more column inches to something no one here seems keen on as there is apparently no such thing as bad advertising.

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#22 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 02:10:11 pm
Or we could just take the piss like we usually do.

dave

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#23 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 02:14:05 pm
treading on heels? how do you tread on someone's heels? toes I can understand, but this takes street jive talk to a new level

Word, imagine you're trying to walk very very closely behind someone (might help you visualise this better if its the Ben Moon).

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#24 Re: Rockfax peak bouldering guide
August 19, 2011, 02:16:13 pm
Quote
The rockfax guide came out when '97, '98?

Not long after the OTE guides by Al Williams and Jason Myers...

Quote
I guess if VG feel hard done by they'll be able to get an injunction or sue for infringement of copyright/intellectual property

No they won't.

I think its well established now that a) database law as relates to aggregation of climbing route descriptions has not been tested in court, and b) none of the current parties involved will ever be able to afford to do so.

So the current free-for-all is likely to continue. All guides will inevitably compile information from other sources. Whether an arbitrary line in the sand has been crossed whilst doing so will remain an intractable question. I think the policy to follow when contributing to or buying guides is to ensure they are not out of favour with locals.

 

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