[moose]

Once again throwing open my holiday plans to the tender mercies of the ukb massive.....

I'm making plans with a friend for a post-Christmas bolt-clipping trip to the continent.  The date is flexible but preferably out of kids' term times and mid-March at the latest (any later and I'll have died from sunlight deprivation ).  We've already been to all of the usual Spanish suspects (except for the ones on the far north but I think those are wad-only zones?) and fancy something new.  But given our limited days off (around 9-10) and work committments, we want to avoid faff and the possibility of multiple days spent travelling or being stranded at ferry terminals.  Which, from what I gather, rules out Kalymnos (maybe best saved for a long visit?). 

Possible venues we've heard good things about are Sardinia or the areas of the south of France covered by the Rockfax Haute Provence and Cote d'Azur guidebooks.  When on these holidays, despite any prior more worthy intentions, we usually end up just trying to onsight as many easy access, single pitch classics as possible (me in the low F7s, my partner in the low/mid F6s).  So preference is given to any places with lots of crags with 3star routes across those grade ranges.  Although, we do like to do the odd all-day multipitch beast (Puig Campagna type stuff).  Cost, within reason, isn't a major factor - we'll likely be booking self-catering accommodation and hiring a car.

So, I'd be very grateful for anyone's experiences of the above places - or any ideas for alternatives.  I've done a bit of research but guide-books etc tend to make everywhere look like a paradise replete with umpteen must-do routes at every grade - when the reality is sometimes a bit scratty, or only worth more than a half-day if you climb in the F8s and fancy a siege.  So, I would really appreciate some first hand, hard-won advice - where to avoid is as important as where to go!

[slackline]

Spent a week in Sardinia in November two years ago staying in Calagonone.  Really enjoyed it, lovely island, some nice crags.  The town was a bit dead at that time of year, and may well be too in the period your looking to go.

Easy access coastal crag (non-tidal) a short walk from the town (Bidriscoti I think from memory)...


Bar Gullich (6b) by slack---line, on Flickr

A large amphitheatre above the town, La Poltrona, mostly 6's, but some harder stuff on the right hand-side and a classic multi-pitch 7 left of middle...


La Poltrona by slack---line, on Flickr

Lots of crags that we didn't get to though.

Walked down to Cala Luna, but only did one climb (on the crag behind where this was shot from), there's climbing in the caves at the far end of the beach...


Cala Luna by slack---line, on Flickr

I notice your not that interested in the multi-pitch but there is also plenty of that should you wish to.

Off again for a week at the start of November. 

PeterH owns the Lemon House guest house out there and knows a fair bit about areas and new developments.

[fried]

Can't give you any advice on location, but this is a useful site for avoiding French school holidays.

http://www.education.gouv.fr/cid28961/mene0914826a.html

Different regions holidays are staggered, so they take up a fair bit of space.

[ShortRound]

Sardinia is a good choice but being an island can have bouts of crap weather, when we went we got three days climbing out of a pretty cold week but that was around March time. We only really looked at the coastal crags on the Eastern side but there is tonnes of stuff inland so you won't run out of routes. The honey pot areas are polished (cala fuili etc) but like I said loads of other stuff to go at.

[moose]

Cheers fellas - I had feared that Sardinia might be a bit limited or undeveloped but that slackers is off for a second time speaks volumes.  Not too bothered about it being quiet.  So long as there's a supermarket that sells bread, booze and sausages and a bar / restaurant for the occassional day when I can't be bothered to cook.   What's the local guidebook like - any good or is one of those destinations where the only decent information is found in topos that are kept nailed down in the local bar!  Weatherwise, it looks like the later in Spring the better - less like a Chorro, more of a Daurada/Costa Blanca if you see what I mean (looks like Chorro is the best place for Jan/Feb... shame I've been there two years in a row!).

That said, I'm still tempted by France. I am probably too much of a punter to get much done.  But, I can't help but feel doing just one route at the likes of Buoux and Ceuse (perhaps even Verdon if feeling adventurous) would give me a warmer glow inside than any number of routes in Sardina or various Spainish crags.  Anyone with experiences with those places from the punter point of view?  Worth considering or am I just a doomed romantic, too much in thrall to tales of Ron, Ben and Jerry to face reality!

[slackline]

Cheers fellas - I had feared that Sardinia might be a bit limited or undeveloped but that slackers is off for a second time speaks volumes.  Not too bothered about it being quiet.  So long as there's a supermarket that sells bread, booze and sausages and a bar / restaurant for the occassional day when I can't be bothered to cook.   What's the local guidebook like - any good or is one of those destinations where the only decent information is found in topos that are kept nailed down in the local bar!

Should point out that I only climb in upto mid-6's.  There are various guides, this one covers the whole island and is researched by the author (currently being updated and new version won't contain multi-pitch routes is my understanding from a post by PeterH sometime ago), the other more local ones (e.g. this) are simply ripping off these.  There are also fold-out map-style guides for different areas (e.g.) which are where newer crags/routes are recorded.

Supermarket and one restaurant and a couple of bars were open off-season last time.

That said, I'm still tempted by France. I am probably too much of a punter to get much done.  But, I can't help but feel doing just one route at the likes of Buoux and Ceuse (perhaps even Verdon if feeling adventurous) would give me a warmer glow inside than any number of routes in Sardina or various Spainish crags.  Anyone with experiences with those places from the punter point of view?  Worth considering or am I just a doomed romantic, too much in thrall to tales of Ron, Ben and Jerry to face reality!

I had a couple of days at Boux last year before going to Verdon for a week, really liked both crags, very good routes (even at me & my mates punter grades).  The western wing of Buoux has also been re-opened recently (clocked someone bolting when we were there, also a thread in Abroad somewhere with details from Ged who went earlier this year).  We were there in May I think, so can't comment on what it will be like but its possibly going to be a bit cold I'd have thought.  Verdon in may be very cold in Jan/Feb I'd have thought, quite possibly with snow too.

[Stabbsy]

I had a March trip to Haute Provence area last year - loads of good crags, but the best venue was St Leger which is a bit limited for grade 6 stuff except in a few sectors. Some of the other crags provide a bit more of a mix (Baume Rousse, Venasque, Combe Obscure, Malaucene) and there was a fair number of places I didn't visit. I'd guess the weather might be a bit unpredictable round there until March (even in March we had a fair few wet days, but still managed to climb).

I've also visited some of the Cote d'Azur area (terrible Rockfax guide - get the local one!) in February a few years back. Some good crags to choose from (Peillon, La Turbie, Castillon) with a reasonable grade spread, although a bit limited in the 6's in some sectors.

Other than that, some of the more popular Spanish areas are good. I really rate El Chorro as a early in the year venue, particularly with the crags at Desplomilandia. I've had trips there in December, February and March. Also done Costa Blanca a few times in February, although you sometimes need to pick and choose crags to avoid freezing! Costa Daurada/Prades can be a bit hit and miss at that time of year.

[IanP]

Went to Sardinia a few years ago at the start of May staying in Cala Gonone, had an excellent time, nice town with some good crags near by but didn't think it compared in quality climbing wise with the best Spanish crags.

I've had a few trips to Siurana in March and had good weather generally (had more mixed experiences with later in spring when it seems weather can be unsettled).  Siurana itself is brilliant for high 6s to high 7s but is less good for low / mid 6s.  Other Prades crags such as Arboli (including El Falco), La Mussara, La Riba and Margalef to the west have some excellent routes in the 6s.   Overall its definitely one of my favourites areas with great climbing and scenery - after a period of less popularity with brits it seems to be back in fashion.

 

[SA Chris]

But, I can't help but feel doing just one route at the likes of Buoux and Ceuse (perhaps even Verdon if feeling adventurous) would give me a warmer glow inside than any number of routes in Sardina or various Spainish crags. 

Early in the year Ceuse can get some bad weather as it is pretty high and exposed. The top of it is a ski field. If you were going to base yourself somewhere lower though, you could pick and choose from the crags in the area on any day based on weather and forecast.

[Muenchener]

I have only squeezed in a couple of days climbing in Sardinia during family holidays, but based on that the single pitch sport that I have done/seen looks good but not amazing. There is however lots of excellent looking multipitch.

Note that Sardinia is bigger than Wales and there are climbing areas all over. The main centre of climbing tourism is Cala Gonone on the central east coast, and that is the only region I have seen; others may be better.

The guidebook situation is as follows:

Cala Gonone: area guidebook, comprehensive and recent. Easily available locally.
Whole of Sardinia: Pietra di Luna. There are two editions of this:
(1) old-ish edition (ca 2002/3), currently available in shops in English. Not fully comrephensive/up to date, but more than enough for a non-local to go at; also includes selective coverage of some excellent looking multipitch areas, a couple of which are within an easy hour or so's drive of Cala Gonone (names later, I don't have the book at hand just now)
(2) new edition, so far afaik only out in Italian: comprehensive for single pitch sport but no multipitch coverage. So for the non-local, actually less useful than the previous one

[slackline]

Monte Oddeu is one sucj multi-pitch crag near Cala Gonone...


Monte Oddeu by slack---line, on Flickr

[Muenchener]

Monte Oddeu is one such multi-pitch crag near Cala Gonone...

Is that the one above the parking spot for Sa Goroppu canyon? If so, it's one of the ones I was thinking of. Looks great.

[slackline]

Could well be, its (road carries on further and Goroppu is towards the end of the valley).