Hi all, I would like feedback on my approximate weekly plan for training.
Here is where I am at:
-I have been climbing > 15 years, originally focused on trad but lately have been only bouldering
-I am currently solid @V6/font7A with my best send @ V8/font7B.
-I would like to progress to being solid @ V7/font7A+ and have at least one send of V9/font7C by the end of the year.
-I have ample time to boulder outside and access to ample boulders of all grades as well as a beastmaker 1000.
-I do not climb on ropes often if at all.. actually haven't tied in since april.
-So far all I have been doing lately is bouldering 3-4 times per week outdoors for 3-4 hours at a time and working on problems mostly in the v5-v8 range, but I seem to have plateau'd.
-I would like to introduce the hangboad as well as sport specific bodyweight exercises to overcome my plateau
-I would like to introduce general bodyweight exercises and a bit of cardio and stretching for general health and injury prevention
-I would like to do all of this in a manner that allows me to progress and stay injury free and healthy in general, and also gives me plenty of time for the enjoyable pursuit of outdoor bouldering.
-I am still hoping to lose a bit of weight from my 90Kg, but instead of crash dieting I hope this just happens naturally with clean eating and exercise
Here is my plan
day 1
- boulder outside for max strength and power, working projects and single moves on problems harder than my limit. lots of rest. ~3-4 hours
- fingerboard session of single hangs ~30 minutes
- bodyweight exercises for upper back/biceps/abdominals - high resistance, low reps EG, one arm pullup progressions, front lever progressions, etc.. ~30-60 minutes
- stretch ~ 30 minutes
day 2
- boulder outside, utilizing technique drills and circuits of problems below my limit. EG, 15 x v3 ~2-3 hours
- bodyweight exercises for chest/triceps/low back - high resistance and low reps EG handstand pushups progressions, planche progressions, etc. also low resistance rotator cuff and wrist extensor exercise. ~30-60 minutes
- stretch ~ 30 minutes
day 3
- easy run ~30 minutes
- stretch ~30 minutes
day 4
-boulder outside as for day 1 ~3-4 hours
- fingerboard session of repeaters, ~30 minutes
- bodyweight exercise for upper back/biceps/abs, but higher reps, lower resistance - EG pullups, rows, hanging leg lifts, etc ~30-60 minutes
- stretch ~30 minutes
day 5
- boulder outside as for day 2 ~2-3 hours
- bodyweight exercise for chest/triceps/low back with higher reps, lower resistance - EG pushups, dips, back extensions etc and also rotator cuff and wrist extensor exercises ~60 minutes
- stretch ~30 minutes
day 6
- long run ~60 minutes
- stretch ~ 30 minutes
day 7
- perhaps some light leg exercises - bodyweight squats, lunges, box jumps, etc ~30 minutes
- easy run 30 minutes
- stretch 30 minutes
Questions:
Is this a safe volume of training? Too much? Too little?
Assuming optimized diet and sleep, is it possible to recover from this volume of training? SHould I ease into it somehow?
Enough variety from day to day? I figure the 30 minute easy run days can count as rest days, as I don't find this too taxing...
Will two ~30 minute sessions on the fingerboard have much effect?
Are the outdoor bouldering sessions emphasizing technique and volume a good idea? (I got this from the book Self Coached Climber, which seems to indicate it's not a good idea to just work on your project day in/day out)
Flame on!