[robertostallioni]

put a tiny fillet behind it at the bottom, say a nail-file or some such.

[boulderingbacon]

welcome to your future!

What do I do now? Current temperatures preclude sweating. I've tried lightly moistening with spit & water: no joy.  Not foolish enough to try chalk. Not keen on coarse sandpaper as I don't want to wear my new toy away / inadvertently change the angle. But what then? If I can't even begin to hang it how can I break it in?

why wouldnt you use chalk? i always find it grips better with a bit of chalk ground in. when brand new the damp fingers thing doesnt seem to work as well as when its been used for a few weeks with chalk. they are all different though, mine at home is far harder than the one down the wall but its just going to make me stronger if i can do hangs on mine.

[robertostallioni]

welcome to your future!

What do I do now? Current temperatures preclude sweating. I've tried lightly moistening with spit & water: no joy.  Not foolish enough to try chalk. Not keen on coarse sandpaper as I don't want to wear my new toy away / inadvertently change the angle. But what then? If I can't even begin to hang it how can I break it in?

why wouldnt you use chalk? i always find it grips better with a bit of chalk ground in. when brand new the damp fingers thing doesnt seem to work as well as when its been used for a few weeks with chalk. they are all different though, mine at home is far harder than the one down the wall but its just going to make me stronger if i can do hangs on mine.

Thats easy for you to say

[Muenchener]

why wouldnt you use chalk? i always find it grips better with a bit of chalk ground in. when brand new the damp fingers thing doesnt seem to work as well as when its been used for a few weeks with chalk. they are all different though, mine at home is far harder than the one down the wall but its just going to make me stronger if i can do hangs on mine.

Ah, thanks. That's the part I wasn't aware of: I've never used a new one before. On well-used ones I've both read here, and experienced, that licked/sweaty/moistened fingers work better than chalked fingers. But will try chalk for now before I try changing the angle.

(It's probably also not helping that my only available mounting arrangement, on a ceiling beam, is quite highball. Might get my bouldering mat out of the shed for the next session)

[gollum]

I am really confused!!!!! What is all this not using chalk thing all about??? Damp fingers sounds odd to me, but have been away a while.

[rodma]

welcome to your future!

I finally bought one, rigged a hanging arrangement for it, and started the beginners' repeater programme for a test drive. And quickly discovered a problem.

On well broken-in beastmakers at walls, I can hang the 35 sloper well in control. I haven't tried rigorously timed repeaters, but I can do multiple several-second hangs. On my new shiny one, I can't hang the sloper at all 

What do I do now?

So long as you find it sufficiently difficult to hold the slopers by nestling and/or pinching the bottom of the hold then you will get a good workout. it doesn't really matter what holds you use so long as you find it difficult and as others have said, it will break in eventually.

I can really easily play around on the 45s at walls, but find the 35s on mine slightly harder and have never ever held the 45s without nestling and pinching, but that will not stop me from training.

 

[SA Chris]

A light roughing with sandpaper makes a lot of difference. If you do it by hand you are only skimming off microns, not removing inches off the whole board. Unless you are beastly strong, then you wouldn't be needing it anyway.

[.Mark.]

Hi all, new to the board. On the subject of the beastmaker could people clarify encores for me. I understand the different lock positions ect but are the lock positions held like repeaters (7on 3off) or is the exercise done as an extended pull up, if so how long is each lock held to complete the exercise. any tips greatly received

[fiveknuckle21]

From what I gather its 6 or 7 pull ups intermittently locking and holding the lock, like a repeater, for 6 or 7 seconds: pull up to full lock, hold for 7 seconds, lower to the bottom then pull up to a 90 degree lock, hold for 7 seconds, then complete the pull up, lower down to the bottom, pull up to 20 degree lock... etc etc. I think.

[webbo]

Not as far as understood it. You take 3 secs rest between each lock,so you put your feet down.Other wise your just doing French pull ups.

[slackline]

Get it straight from the horses beasts mouth

[TobyD]

Whilst we're on the subject of beastmakers (I have a 1000) does anyone have a cunning scheme for fixing one reliably to a screw out pull up bar?
I was going to try mounting the beastmaker on a slightly oversized piece of ply, and obtaining some scaffolding clamps (or similar) from B&Q / Wickes / a builders' merchants; and clamping it to the bar, but fear that rotation may be an issue.

Any beta  (very) gratefully accepted, as I am bored of rock rings, and feel pretty weak

[Ged]

Like this toby...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=63288

Make sure the board it's mounted on is wider than the door way, then just loop cord over the pull up bar.  It hangs a bit low, but you just bend your knees.  I attach the cord at the bottom by just putting in a cut out notch, so it's easy to remove.

[.Mark.]

thanks for the replies about encores, still seems theres a bit of variety in how people are completing each repetition. Can see the merits of both ways will probably try and incorporate both methods (resting / 1 full repetition). Couldn't see on the beastmaker  website any mention of timings for the exercise

[slackline]

Couldn't see on the beastmaker  website any mention of timings for the exercise

Under the Repeaters section

Repeaters consist of hanging a grip type for 7 seconds then resting 3 seconds and then holding for another 7 seconds, this should be done for 6 to 7 reps so if you’re on a stopwatch and you start hanging at 3 seconds the finishing line is at 1 minute 10 seconds.