[granticus]

Mrs Granticus has booked a holiday cottage for us near Skipton for mid August. 

Of course I am aware that this is slap bang in the middle of lots of gritstone bouldering. 
So here's my brief and hopefully some of you locals can give me the beta.

I will be fitting in sessions around doing stuff with wife (not a climber) n baby (not a climber..yet) , so probably looking at 2 to 3 hour sessions first thing or later in the day...

Reccomendations of must do 'classic' problems that I can do in a session - easy and upto Font 7b/+ ish.

It is summertime so where and when will I find the best conditions? (shady/breezy spots evening/morning etc..)

Is it worth getting the Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering guide?

[GCW]

I would look at YG.com first off, better than the guide for a one off visit IMHO. 

A few places around Skipton have a decent walk in so probably wouldn't suit.

Better suited venues aren't too far a drive eg Almscliff, Earl, Brimham etc

[Tom de Gay]

A picnic at Brimham would be ideal, especially if it involved an ascent of Whisky Galore.


The guide's worth having as it can be quite hard to find stuff at Brimham on first visit.

[SA Chris]

You will need to get the shade direction / breeze direction / midge factor right.

As GCW said, check yorkshire grit for info, and choose places with shorter approach if your time is toight.

Earl would be obvious for ticking most boxes. But Brimham and to a lesser extent Ilkley can be justified with a full day out for the family, esp if the family want to peruse the shops in Ilkley.

[tomtom]

Crookrise.... High up, bit of a walk in but superb under rated spot..

[GCW]

May be a bit tight going to Crookrise if he's only got 2 hours spare though!

[tomtom]

May be a bit tight going to Crookrise if he's only got 2 hours spare though!

Yeah I guess so.. The ilkley dolphinarium (tm) is close ish too.. Though it's Ilkley so not everyone's cup of chai..

[granticus]

Cheers folks... I'm not adverse to a walk in and can negotiate more time if necessary! How long are we talking for Crookrise?

I guess I can figure out for myself where will be best in given conditions at particular times of day.

What I'm really after are problems that folk think are special!  So far my tick list consists of...

Whisky Galore ...........  (Thankyou Tom!)

Any other suggestions???

[GCW]

Half an hour or so.

Barry Kingsize and Karjala should be on your list there.

[SA Chris]

Crookrise is a great spot for mixing up a bit of bouldering with some easy solos etc.

I've always had a soft spot for Crease Direct. There are some nice slabs with hard starts which are fun to do completely; direct starts to Arsenic and Old Lace are good fun.

Earl has so many classic problems; at mortals grade Trick Arete (and the easier stuff around it), John Dunne Slap etc. Hanging Groove has always left me a bit flummoxed, but looks cool.

[tommytwotone]

Cheers folks... I'm not adverse to a walk in and can negotiate more time if necessary! How long are we talking for Crookrise?

I guess I can figure out for myself where will be best in given conditions at particular times of day.

What I'm really after are problems that folk think are special!  So far my tick list consists of...

Whisky Galore ...........  (Thankyou Tom!)

Any other suggestions???

At Brimham...

Pommel
Lost World
Acme Wall
Happy Days
Anniversary Arete
The left hand scoop down and left of Lover's Leap area
Black Chipper Start
Fantasy League
Loads of stuff at the Niche

Should keep you going!

See YG for grades / beta / a very stylish fella photographed on Lost World 

[SA Chris]

And be preared to get lost disorientated and bewildered at Brimham. Stick to cubic block / pommel if you get lost. Tagging onto a local will pay dividends!

[GCW]

See YG for a very stylish fella photographed on Lost World 

This guy?  He certainly is stylish!

[tommytwotone]

Indeed - with that in mind if you're there at a weekend or fancy an evening session PM me...can't guarantee I won't get lost as well but am beginning to be able to find my way around OK.

[GCW]

Likewise- I am probably going to have some free days in August.

[granticus]

Cheers Folks..  Looks like some great stuff to go at there.  Am there from 20th to 27th a guided tour would be sweet will get in touch nearer the time.

[stvey1987]

So.....how was yorkshire Granticus ? Get much done ? Any particular areas / problems you enjoyed especially ?

[granticus]

So.....how was yorkshire Granticus ? Get much done ? Any particular areas / problems you enjoyed especially ?

Been meaning to do a post in the NNFN thread regarding my bouldering exploits in Yorkshire but decided not to whinge!  However since you asked....., this was a family holiday with wife and baby so bouldering had to fit around the requirements of them.  My first session was cut very short due to a poo incident with the babbit which meant I arrived at Earl Crag with very little time to spare in fading light and decided to get on the John Dunne Slap which I subsequently discovered is height dependent (I wondered why I couldn't stick that hold by cutting loose!).  Then for a bizarre reason I decided to walk over to the boulder across the moor from here and fell into one too many bogs before it was too dark to see.  Session number 2 an evening at Brimham was 20 minutes checking boulders out, then nip back to the carpark to make sure wife n baby are good to find them being eaten alive by midges, so sacked that session.  Went back early doors the following day after being woken up at 5.30am by Jonas, settled him down again and snuck out.  Had a great session but did get munched by midges...  Warmed up around Pommel, did Pommel, did a sit start one move wonder V7 next to it, did a great traverse on the back of the big cube bloc, did lots around the Niche (upto V7) which had a nice breeze hence no midges.  The moors were closed for grouse hunting so couldn't do Crookrise etc...!  Was allowed out to play on our 2nd to last evening there, so headed for the lakeside boulders at Widdop, got out of the car and got eaten by midges again.  Sacked it off imediately before climbing anything (bloody fantastic looking venue though!) and razzed around to Bridestones in fading light, decided I had to tick a classic!  Selected the classic Horror Arete as the warm up, a friendly local stuck another mat down for me and gave me a spot, dispatched it in quick time.  Scarey, high, cool moves, spicey last move = SUPERB PROBLEM   By this point it was dark, I donned my head torch and did a whole load of classics V0 to V3 in the dark, BRILLIANT session! 

In conclusion, with very limited time I got bog all done but did do a few classics and most importantly had fun!  Brimham looks brilliant but on closer inspection there is a lot of bushwacking to find the really good stuff.  Bridestones is superb, although there is a little problemo with soft rock in places.  Widdop lakeside boulders look brilliant but wait until midge season is over (i think this probably goes for a lot of the bouldering hereabouts).  Earl Crag is a little scrappy but seems to be some good stuff spread out along the edge.  Lots of places I didn't go to but would like to Caley, Almscliff, Slipstones, Crookrise etc. etc.  Am planning a weekend with the boys strictly bouldering, no wifes, no babies later in the year!

Oh and we had a great family holiday, loads to see and do for everyone.

[Will Hunt]

Sounds like you had a YYFY to me! Glad you had a nice time.

[granticus]

Am planning a weekend with the boys strictly bouldering, no wifes, no babies later in the year!

Round 2 

Brownie points have been collected and traded in.  A small group of SWers are heading for some Yorks bouldering in November (weekend of 25th).. Should the weather be ameanable Yorks will be the venue of choice.  We're working on a budget, so can anyone please reccomend an appropriate campsite in the vicinity of the Dales?

And where will be in nick at this time of year or is it the usual check the weather wind direction/strength and pick the appropriate spot accordingly?

Cheers G

[tomtom]

Thought about finding a bunk barn instead? - it might will be brassic/wet/dark in Nov... its low/dead season for bunkhouses so there should be opportunities...

Regarding conditions - its all weather dependant... some will be sheltered yet dry slowly, some the opposite, others can get green, some can be in great nic. Might be easiest to post up on the conditions thread just before the weekend in question... 

[tommytwotone]

...or just head straight to Almscliff just to be on the safe side!

[ShortRound]

in terms of conditions - here is what I learnt from living/climbing in yorkshire for a couple of years.

If its cold & windy - Widdop lakeside, Brimham Rocks, Caley
If its a bit warmer or has rained recently or risk of midges - Almscliff, Slipstones, Crookrise
If its cold and not windy - Earl Crag, or anywhere really provided its not midge season.

I've not been to Hunter's Stones but by all accounts there is a good circuit there. Also, if you're feeling strong and want a good beasting, I've heard Whitehouses is good for that sort of thing.

[ShortRound]

...or just head straight to Almscliff just to be on the safe side!

What he said, forget my nonsense.

[tomtom]

...or just head straight to Almscliff just to be on the safe side!

+1

 (you know I meant to say that really...)

[granticus]

Cheers folks.. 

Thought about finding a bunk barn instead? - it might will be brassic/wet/dark in Nov... its low/dead season for bunkhouses so there should be opportunities

  We will of course be bringing good weather from Devon along with us but bunk barn sounds like a good plan. 

 

[tomtom]

Yup.. or camp right next to a pub Sorry, I've no reccomendations for places to stay.. but I'd be surprised if anywhere was overbooked then... Bringing a MTB might make sense if the forecast looks log and you're into pedalling...

[granticus]

Bringing a MTB might make sense if the forecast looks log and you're into pedalling...

We are keeping plans flexible, so if Yorkshire's looking grim will head elsewhere or sack the trip in favour of surfing if the whole countries looking shabby. 

[rich d]

If you don't mind a decent length uphill walk in I'd recommend Lord's seat - again Yorkshiregrit.com is your friend - for me it's one of my favourite places to boulder has great grit and an exposed and quiet moorland feel. Truly a great place, and different in character.
If you're camping then why not camp at masham and then you get the best gritstone in the world (slipstones) and blacksheep brewery rolled into one.
Of course if the weather's not so good then it's the Cliff.
Personally I love Ilkley as I started climbing there - but if it wasn't for the emotional link and I wouldn't bother for bouldering- however the routes are a different matter.

[andy_e]

Two words for you: Brim Ham.

[SA Chris]

Brimham Rocks. It really does. But comandeer the services of a local it can be somewhat bewildering on the first visit. And the second, and third.....

Almscliff is always a good fallback plan, can always bag something there if you get skunked elsewhere.

Caley is my favourite, but it may well be dressing in winter greenery by that point. Worth a punt at asking about for conditions beta if it's been dry for a few days though.

[granticus]

Caley is my favourite, but it may well be dressing in winter greenery by that point. Worth a punt at asking about for conditions beta if it's been dry for a few days though.

Caley..  Seems to be midgey in the summer and green in the winter...  Surely autumn must be the best time to visit before it gets really green?

[tomtom]

Caley is my favourite, but it may well be dressing in winter greenery by that point. Worth a punt at asking about for conditions beta if it's been dry for a few days though.

Caley..  Seems to be midgey in the summer and green in the winter...  Surely autumn must be the best time to visit before it gets really green?

Theres a 4-6 week window after the winter grit calling event.... and a similar period before the lime is called in spring..
Caley can be superb, but its a bit more finicky conditions wise than its cousin over the other side of the valley...

[andy_e]

The Caley season is short and sweet, I hope we get a long one this year as there's some glaring omissions on my ticklist!

[SA Chris]

Caley is always worth a punt, if it's no good, Almscliff is there as a fallback, looming like a wart on the horizon.

[tomtom]

Caley is always worth a punt, if it's no good, Almscliff is there as a fallback, looming like a wart on the horizon.

You used the 'W' word to describe the Cliff...

[SA Chris]

Sorry.

Carbuncle on the horizon.

[tomtom]

Sorry.

Carbuncle on the horizon.

Far more palatable

Alas I fear it may already be too late, the skies have darkened as the apocalyptic swarm of locusts poured from Jess' roof cave and headed North towards Scotchland... (stopping for a quick bite at the Whaler on the way...)

[SA Chris]

Hopefully I will pass them going the opposite way!