[schloosh]

I'm finishing off the online guide to Buckstones for the http://www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk website.

Before I complete all the photo topos I was wondering if anyone has any info on new problems or linkups other than those on UKC http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9058 and Yorkshire Grit http://peakbouldering.info/crags/127

thanks

[GCW]

I presume you have the 2002 Hudd guide?
Other than that I think there's just Nik's link ups that I put on UKC, and the mythical 7c+ thing that the Bearded one flashed.

[Big Dave]

There are a lot more problems than listed on UKC or PB.info. As GCW said, do you have the Huddersfield Guide? If so they're all in there.

The PIAP roof is the main area for the harder problems. But there are a few others on the boulders down the hillside, plus some above the road.

Let me know if you need any details.

[Grubes]

Not sure if he has the guide but the guy I took up who took the photos did and has marked up all the problems in there.

[schloosh]

I have the guide yes.
Sorry, should have been clearer in my original post, i meant are there any other problems other than those in the Hudds Guide, UKC and yorks grit.

I have 140 problems in total, 64 above the road and 76 below the road.

I might need some people to check through the roof problems before i send the page fully live to just make sure I have all the topo diagrams correct.

[schloosh]

Buckstones guide is now up on the Kirklees Climbing site:
http://www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk/buckstones_edge

Split into 2 main areas, above and below the road:

http://www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk/buckstones_above_topo
&
http://www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk/buckstones_below_topo

PDF download to follow shortly, hopefully later this week.

If anyone who is familiar with the venue could take a look and let me know any glaring errors, the problems around 30-40 are the ones that might have incorrect mark ups but I think most of them are correct.

[GCW]

The Whack isn't on the same bloc as Pig In A Pokey btw.

[schloosh]

Merde,  where is it?

[nik at work]

AFAIK The Whack is the same line as Legz Akimbo on your topo, it doesn't use the blocks to the right or left though, dunno if this makes it different to Legz Akimbo

[schloosh]

I've corrected the problems on the PIAP block, looks like Legz Akimbo might be the same problem as the Whack then going by the descriptions.

[GCW]

I've started adding a few of the problems to the UKC database.  May take a while!

[Big Dave]

Great effort on the topo, the Kirklees website is coming along well.

Any plans for future updates? West nab, Standedge and Pule hill would be good as along with Buckstones not too far from me!

[schloosh]

Thanks Big Dave,

All of those crags and more are on the list to be covered.
The aim is to cover all the other existing Kirklees crags, (Honley Old Wood, Honley Quarry, Lindley Moor Quarry, Longwood Edge, Nab End Quarry, Pule Hill, Shooter's Nab, Standedge, West Nab, Worlow Quarry) and the  start on some of the newer undeveloped crags

What is really needed is for people to get out to the crags, take the photos, mark up some basic topo's with lines and locations and pass these to me so I can get it published on the website.

[GCW]

Right, I've updated the UKC database in line with the list you sent me.  If there's any glaring fuck ups let me know.

[schloosh]

Nice work.

[schloosh]

Do you think it's safe to assume that the Whack and Legz Akimbo are actually the same problem then?

[GCW]

I think so, unless there's any particular evidence otherwise.  Although it will cock up the cross referencing if you change all your numbering!!

[csurfleet]

I know I've said it before elsewhere Schloosh, but great work on these guides - have a wad

[GCW]

Just noticed the topo line for Precious Things Dyno- that line won't go at 6c!  Is this a jump to the jug at the end then a campus?

[schloosh]

GCW - I actually removed the Whack from my topo as I was not sure where it was.
I noticed, while doing so, that I'd actually missed out an easy problem from that bloc which is Problem 40.

So my numbering was fine, however it's probably screwed up your UKC numbering a bit.

I propose merging the Whack and Legz Akimbo, I'll do this on the topo and grade at 7c+

RE: Precious Things Dyno, the original Hudds guide states to "somehow reach the break" then dyno up, so I assume the jump start is the way to go.
I meant to start the line at the break, so I'll amend the image.

[GCW]

OK.  Send me an updated problem names list and I'll try to keep things in line.

[schloosh]

Cool, emailed that to you.
Have updated the Dyno, added easy problem 40.
Merged the Whack and Legz Akimbo.

Thanks for your help.

[GCW]

Modified in line with your changes.

Nik at Work- due to the modifications, you have no longer onsighted the Whack, merely a font 4.  Sorry bout that.

[nik at work]

Hey-ho, you gotta roll with the punches and all that...

[schloosh]

I finally got round to finishing off the PDF download for Buckstones and it's on the site now:

http://www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk/pdf_downloads

Folds up nicely ala Lakesbloc's guides, as will the other guides once I've moved them to the new format.

I also put the PDF for the Piper Stones (Shooters Nab Boulders) up, hardly the biggest or most enticing venue but good for a quick hit to tick them all if you are in the area or passing.

[fatneck]

Great topo. Thanks...

Question:

Planning on taking Mrs Fatneck out on Sat and thinking about going here. The topo looks like there's be loads for her to do but leaves me wondering about scale of boulders and landings? Also, is it particularly exposed?

Thanks for any info...

[Grubes]

Generally pretty good landings but it is a moorland venue and is exposed. Not sure if you have checked out pule hill but it is about as exposed just over side of the valley. Generally the boulders are not that big here is a video to give some scale (this is one of the highest).


If its windy the boulders will be dry but they may be grim. Also take decent footware as some of the hill side can be boggy

For a hudds area boulder I would recommend holmfirth at this time of year, nice veiws, good landings. it gets the sun from just after lunch ish also a bit lower so a little bit warmer.
Hope that helps.

[GCW]

That spotting still makes me laugh 

[schloosh]

Cheers.

Like Grubes says it's a moorland venue so quite exposed and gets a lot of wind, this means it's quick drying but can be pretty baltic on a cold windy day.
The problems are generally quite low with flat grassy landings.

Holmfirth is not too far away and is usually more sheltered but still quick drying.

Forecast is not too bad at the moment, check the twitter feed on the KC homepage (http://www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk/home) on Saturday morning as I normally post what the weather is like.

I could/should try sort out some sense of scale in the topo pictures I suppose......

(that's not spotting, that's staying out of the way!) 

[fatneck]

Cheers guys, still undecided at the mo as it looks like it's going to be pretty bloody freezing! Need to put a list together of wife/child friendly venues methinks...

Your "spotting" made the wife laugh Gareth :-)

[Big Dave]

I've been up there a few times when it's cold and windy, wasn't much fun. As said very exposed, not really any sheltered parts, but landings generally good.

[GCW]

Your "spotting" made the wife laugh Gareth :-)

Initially, we were more concerned that Nik would land on his head from that slap, so once he grabbed the JUG I stepped away to avoid the dab.  It's not my fault he decided to let go    You'll note the significant change in spotting position for the successful ascent!

[Grubes]

My house mate was on okay dokey tonight when the crimpy hold and a large flake of rock it was attached to came off (photos below) he is really keen to do the problem but has no chance in its current state. He is wondering if it could be glued back on.
Obviously this is not a common practice for grit and he has never done it before. He has taken the flake home. It is a reasonably clean break with plenty of surface that could be glued.
I think the problem could possibly still be do-able with out but much harder than 7B.
He will leave it off if people say they don't think it should go back on.

Obviously this will effect all of the link ups too.

[Jayefuu]

Cheers Luke. Didn't realise you'd posted. I started a separate thread.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22577.0.html

Your post gives better details so will watch both.

[lagerstarfish]

  as usual

that second photo looks great if you turn it upside down - looks like some sort of cool landscape with the sun setting/rising

[GCW]

Seal it and leave it, as far as I'm concerned.

BeardyBeast?

[nik at work]

I don't think it will glue well, it's sandy rock up there so you'd just be glueing one layer of loose sand to another layer of loose sand, unlikely to end successfully or atractively. I'd leave it (seal it?) and have it reclimbed as is, I'm sure it will still go just be a bit harder, and gives a whole new range of link-ups to be climbed, and we all know how I love that shit.

If I get chance I'll try and pop up and have a look at some point.

[Jayefuu]

I don't think it will glue well, it's sandy rock up there so you'd just be glueing one layer of loose sand to another layer of loose sand, unlikely to end successfully or atractively.

Cheers Nik. Yeh, I'm not keen to land on my back with it on my chin again any time soon.

Looking forward to see what you can do with the sandy crimp that's now there. Looks far out of my (grade) reach. Will keep hold of the hold in case you change your mind after looking at it.

  for being a fatty :D

[Grubes]

on a different note
has anyone done papa lazarou. It gets 7A in the online guide I did this first go being disappointed not to flash it.
If I can get a problem third go its not 7A I think a down grade to 6B or 6A+ is required.
Anyone agree?

[Jayefuu]

on a different note
has anyone done papa lazarou. It gets 7A in the online guide I did this first go being disappointed not to flash it.
If I can get a problem third go its not 7A I think a down grade to 6B or 6A+ is required.
Anyone agree?

#57 on the KC topo. 6a seems fair, it's much easier than the 6b up the centre of the wall and easier than On the Job with Pauline. It's certainly never 7a.

[Bonjoy]

I can't see the pictures at work and this isn't a comment on whether you should/shouldn't glue the hold back on. But on the practicality of gluing soft/sandy rock back to similar material it can be done with some hope of success, you just need to stabilise both sides of the join with low viscosity superglue first.