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Kali Yuga - Two tier - first hold broken (Read 3558 times)

RobinB

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Kali Yuga - Two tier - first hold broken
June 20, 2011, 03:41:21 pm
I managed to pull most of the first hold of Kali Yuga off yesterday. This is the undercut pocket that you use with your left hand to reach up to the reverse undercut with your right hand. It's left a small mono to do the move, but not really much there. I managed to find the main bit of the hold that came off

I plan to sikka the hold back on sometime in the next couple of weeks (have checked with Ru and he is happy for me to do this) so if you're keen to do the route - apologies - but the hold should be restored soon

Steamboat Stello

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This is the undercut pocket that you use with your left hand to reach up to the reverse undercut with your right hand.

Ahh so thats how you do this move. I was going left hand to the right-most sidepull, reaching up with right to very small two finger crimp then trying to slap left hand to higher sidepull from here. Felt hard but possible.

Good effort sticking it back together again.

pedr

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Bloody hell Robin! Is this due to you being so strong because of your newly renewed enthusiasm that you're ripping the holds off the crag or are you still carrying a little extra 'poundage'? :punk:

jonjon

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It was the combined weight of him and his belayer

saltbeef

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is it back on?

Johnny Brown

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The hold or Robin's extra poundage?

shark

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The hold or Robin's extra poundage?

He's going for it pedalling home at the moment

RobinB

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Unfortunately the hold is still off and the extra poundage is still on

I may make it out there to fix it this weekend. If anyone is mad keen to do the route and wants to glue the hold on themselves, pm me as I have the hold and have bought some glue which you would be welcome to use

Andy Harris

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Hi Rob, I resited the temptation to bite when you 1st posted but I guess all I can say in the inimitable words of Carter the Unstoppable Sex Machine, "YOU FAT BAS****". Try and do a good, clean job when you glue it on. This was probably the best quality bit of rock in the valley and it would be a shame to do a  Sharples/Hart on it (ie. slather it in offensively bright gloop). Ru did do a very good job on Seraphim and Jonboy is a veritable antique restorer so maybe they might.

cheers

RobinB

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Ha ha - very amusing Andy

Hold is now glued back on - hopefully it should stay on. I will try and lose some weight before I pull on it again

 

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