[Andy W]

ok so not really sieged a project for years, I'm fit enough I think! I warm up a bit, a few pull ups and easy boulder problems. I then find that I can only manage three attempts at project (about 28 moves), the third usually being useless. yesterday I tried the first half and then the second half both ok then my first go was best, second and third not so. The crux both in difficulty and redpoint is in the last six moves.

Should I simply it work it from the end back so to speak? any ideas?

[shark]

It varies how much warming each person needs to do but yours would be too little for me even if I'd climbed the day before. Also I tend to dog the project as part of the warm-up when putting clips in rather than going for links. Always tricky to know what tactics are best when the crux is at the top. Which route?

[Johnny Brown]

[Doylo]

It you want to get really serious about it do big links from lower and lower. You need to get used to doing the top when you're tired and it will be helpful to know how it feels when you're tired and not to mention building up your fitness. You could quit redpointing until you've got it from say the 3rd bolt.  I'm remember reading that Jerry used to get a lot of his hard projects really quickly on redpoint because he spent so much time working them and building up the fitness he'd need for the route by doing links. I guess that approach cuts out the stressful part of projecting (redpointing!) That vid gives me blood

[Andy B]

That's my favourite climbing video ever, and there's hardly any climbing in it.

[Andy W]

my first admission is that its a traverse! second is I now know I need to put some work in, laps on sections from the end. My mistake was in being fairly close, fairly quickly thinking I could do it from the begining. Cheers guys and yea that vid is inspiring, especially the bit about enjoying it, easy to forget that bit really!

[Doylo]

ah well you posted it in chuffing but the same things apply really

[Andy W]

ah well you posted it in chuffing but the same things apply really

from what I can remember about chuffing it certainly feels like it!