[205Chris]

Been away all week with work so it's a late post:

STG: Powerplant

Short version of events: I've still not climbed Powerplant

Long version:

Without wanting to turn this into a ramble I didn't get a lot done of climbing / training done. Hoped to get on Powerplant one evening in the week but various belaying options canceled on me. Finally got to the cornice on Friday / Saturday but climbed rubbish and couldn't even get through the crux.

Much as I hate to say this I think it's time for a break from Powerplant for several reasons:

i. Since returning from Spain in May I've only climbed a handful of routes as the rest of the time has been spent on Powerplant.

ii. I've really struggled to find belayers for various reasons. It's also frustrating to take a rest day or two to feel fresh then have a belay cancel at the last minute.

iii. After speaking to a friend last week I think siege tactics are good up to a point. If there's a definite crux on the route that you're continually failing on but the one go you make it through the crux the route should be in the bag then I reckon it's worth grinding it out. I can lap Powerplant in over lapping halves but climbing the thing in one go seems to be at my power endurance limit.

iv. Psychologically it's a big route for me and I'm not sure that reporting on power club every week that I've still not climbed it is great for me mentally. I used to keep most of my goals private and I thought making them public would inspire / motivate etc. but not sure this is the case as it might just be adding to the pressure.

Still, it's been a learning experience and despite feeling a bit down that it's not in the bag yet I'm reminded of this

Time for a change of scene for a few weeks then back to Powerplant. This is what I need:




Ramble over.

[shark]

Hi Chris

Sorry to hear about your belayer problems - I would be seething if that happened to me. For a project at your limit you need to be getting on it at least twice a week. The last time I saw you on it you were really close. It would be a shame to chuck the towel in. Better if you can take afternoons off for weekday sessions as you are less rushed than if turning up after work. If you are still psyched for it and need a regular and reliable partner I am happy to transfer my allegiance to the Cornice as I have been going to the tor a lot of late and could do with a change of scenery. Maybe take a week out to train then get back in the saddle. That is what worked for me on K3.

[nai]

I was wondering why you hadn't posted this week, big call to make when you've been so close.

You say you're at the top end of your PE limit, being a few months into your training the gains you are making there are now probably quite small in the short term?  Having been focused on PE/general endurance Your top-end power is probably a little down on your winter levels so that could be an area that you could improve very quickly, spend a week or two bouldering/power focused, as well as a recharge it may give you that bit more umph you need to get through.

[205Chris]

Hi Chris

Sorry to hear about your belayer problems - I would be seething if that happened to me. For a project at your limit you need to be getting on it at least twice a week. The last time I saw you on it you were really close. It would be a shame to chuck the towel in. Better if you can take afternoons off for weekday sessions as you are less rushed than if turning up after work. If you are still psyched for it and need a regular and reliable partner I am happy to transfer my allegiance to the Cornice as I have been going to the tor a lot of late and could do with a change of scenery. Maybe take a week out to train then get back in the saddle. That is what worked for me on K3.

I was wondering why you hadn't posted this week, big call to make when you've been so close.

You say you're at the top end of your PE limit, being a few months into your training the gains you are making there are now probably quite small in the short term?  Having been focused on PE/general endurance Your top-end power is probably a little down on your winter levels so that could be an area that you could improve very quickly, spend a week or two bouldering/power focused, as well as a recharge it may give you that bit more umph you need to get through.

Cheers guys. Don't get me wrong, I'm not giving up and I'm still psyched for the route I think I just need a break for a week or two. The next couple of weekends I'm fairly busy with limited opportunities to get out so I'm going to use this opportunity to train then get back to the cornice with a vengeance.

Simon - I appreciate the offer, I'll be in touch in a couple of weeks when my weekends free up again.