Can whichever hero has left their quickdraws in Mecca Extension please take them out. Don't want the rot to set in again. Thank you.
Last Sunday Kilnsey was pretty bad for in-situs too at the end of the day; there's serious creep on this issue ATM and I'm not just talking of routes that are hard to strip.
Thread necro!I'd written a post for the BMC website about the dangers of forming sharp edges on perma-draws a while back, it looks like it's worse than we realised. Mammut have done a load of testing, and the results are pretty shocking: https://www.mammut.ch/INT/en/know-how/ropes/notes
Quote from: danm on March 28, 2017, 10:18:37 pmThread necro!I'd written a post for the BMC website about the dangers of forming sharp edges on perma-draws a while back, it looks like it's worse than we realised. Mammut have done a load of testing, and the results are pretty shocking: https://www.mammut.ch/INT/en/know-how/ropes/notesThis needs spreading I climbed at a crag on New Zealand a month ago and the first fixed draw on a roof extension was so sharp I couldn't believe it, I took the krab out and lowered off. Could this be one of those situations where the draw is at an easy point (jugs) so no-one really stops there thereby creating one type of rope wear on the QuickDraw? I think this was the cause of a death a few years ago on an alpine route? The other, more popular, routes with fixed draws were chunky steel ones on chains and seemed fine. Would these go the same way eventually or is this study just looking into the alloys on 'everyday' QuickDraws? Stay safe out there
Take it off and chuck it in the bin.
Quote from: Wood FT on March 29, 2017, 01:39:06 amQuote from: danm on March 28, 2017, 10:18:37 pmThread necro!I'd written a post for the BMC website about the dangers of forming sharp edges on perma-draws a while back, it looks like it's worse than we realised. Mammut have done a load of testing, and the results are pretty shocking: https://www.mammut.ch/INT/en/know-how/ropes/notesThis needs spreading I climbed at a crag on New Zealand a month ago and the first fixed draw on a roof extension was so sharp I couldn't believe it, I took the krab out and lowered off. Could this be one of those situations where the draw is at an easy point (jugs) so no-one really stops there thereby creating one type of rope wear on the QuickDraw? I think this was the cause of a death a few years ago on an alpine route? The other, more popular, routes with fixed draws were chunky steel ones on chains and seemed fine. Would these go the same way eventually or is this study just looking into the alloys on 'everyday' QuickDraws? Stay safe out thereSteel is much harder wearing, so is a much better choice if the draw is left in-situ. DMM and others make special sets for climbing walls etc, where the krab is steel, but has an alloy gate for ease of use (steel gates are too heavy for easy clipping). One of these with a chain or wire sling and maillon into the bolt is the most suitable thing to use as a permadraw.
Quite surprised by this. Not the fact that a badly worn biner will shred ropes, but that folk blindly clip them in that state. When we did some tests at DMM on the Mecca perma-draws, the scenario was that the maillon had been first scored by the bolt, then rotated and cut the inside of the webbing. Much less obvious. I'm minded to say anyone having a rope damaged by a groove worn in the clipping crab deserves what they get, but I guess it's symptomatic of a general 'it's safe' sport climbing mindset.
Cheers, just a shame those types of fixed draws are fuck ugly
The mind boggles doesn't it. They aren't even steep routes! There was a load of these in a route I did at red rocks called monster skank. Brilliant route in a lovely little canyon, with massive ugly chains hanging all over it.
I don’t climb 8c but I don’t see why it’s any different to projecting 8a or 7a for that matter?