[Fiend]

https://youtu.be/yFfkOM8RgAU?t=379

"The height is mostly just my long neck"

Another body shape one... I watched this a while ago and was then chatting to a friend. Adam implies it's "just long neck" which seemingly has little climbing advantage....or does it?? I came up with one idea, recently yetix added another, anyone got any more possible climbing advantages to a long neck??

1. Effectively own personal periscope for telescoping around finding holds and sequences - clear advantage for onsighting.
2. Can move head around to gain extra momentum - possible advantage for dynamic moves.
3. Extra distance from heart = slightly cooler brain - could reduce over-stressing and clearer thinking.
4. Also extra distance from heart = heart has had to work slightly harder from birth - natural CV fitness training

 

[yetix]

https://youtu.be/yFfkOM8RgAU?t=379

1. Effectively own personal periscope for telescoping around finding holds and sequences - clear advantage for onsighting.

Go Go Gadget Neck

[HarryBD]

There's something in point 2 I think - the rest is bollocks.

In fact, I don’t know anyone with a physique similar to mine. Although Janja might be similar. She’s got a long neck and a small head.

from https://www.irozhlas.cz/sport/ostatni-sporty/czech-climber-adam-ondra-climbing-data-sensors_1809140930_jab

Would ordering these be cultural appropriation or a genuine training aid?https://www.etsy.com/uk/market/african_neck_rings

[SA Chris]

In fact, I don’t know anyone with a physique similar to mine. Although Janja might be similar. She’s got a long neck and a small head.

Similarities end here.

[Doylo]

Good for peeking over toilet cubicles.

[Will Hunt]

I've got an image now of Fiend going to some underground illegal plastic surgeon in Frankfurt.
The surgery is a blood-spattered concrete cell with rusty saws hanging from the wall.
"Make my neck 2 inches longer. It's the only way for me to climb V5".
"Ze money first".
Herr Doctor then places Fiend on the slab and, at Fiend's own request, puts the ultra-high tempo GoreGrind music on the stereo. It blares out, an incandescent rage of sound.
The Doctor shrieks with laughter as he pulls and pulls at Fiend's head. The patient opens his mouth to let out a blood-curdling scream, but no sound can be heard over the waves of guitar thrashing, until with a sound of rending tissue and flesh, the head parts from Fiend's shoulders.

The CCTV footage is then used as a music video by a band with a very offensive name. It's how he would have wanted to go, and the legacy he always dreamed of.

[tomtom]

was it in the NYT article about him - or someone else posting that he can use it very effectively to pendulum/headbutt his body to where he wants to go....

[jwi]

n=1

[Duma]

From the same vid I thought the info on other top climbers ape indexes was interesting

[tomtom]

I'll test this tonight. By going to the wall and climbing with a helmet with a 5kg weight ductaped to the top of it.

[Fiend]

That's the spirit. I knew someone could handle science around here. Strap a gopro to the top the helmet and wear VR goggles and see if the extra height vision improves your accuracy.

[lukeyboy]

was it in the NYT article about him - or someone else posting that he can use it very effectively to pendulum/headbutt his body to where he wants to go....

Yeah it was - https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/06/sports/olympics/olympics-climbing-adam-ondra.html

"Ondra long thought his neck was a detriment, a waste of length that did not make holds easier to reach but only added weight to his frame. Then a physiologist explained one benefit — his head is like the end of a pendulum.

“As I’m about to set off with my next move, I push back my head and it forces my feet tighter against the wall,” Ondra explained. “I do it subconsciously.”"

[tomtom]

That's the spirit. I knew someone could handle science around here. Strap a gopro to the top the helmet and wear VR goggles and see if the extra height vision improves your accuracy.

I went for a belt and braces strategy for data collection - I superglued accelerometers to every appendage.

The wall owner called me a stupid c*nt - and said that was the stupidest bouldering get up he’d seen since some weirdo came in wearing just a face mask, adult nappy, compression 1/4 length stockings and a death metal vest.

I climbed like a god.

[Fiend]

Lukey Boy - woah! Hadn't read that. I suspect it's not as big a factor as him being really fucking good, massively psyched and excited and totally focused with his progression, but hey if there's some advantage...

[SA Chris]

Lukey Boy - woah! Hadn't read that. I suspect it's not as big a factor as him being really fucking good, massively psyched and excited and totally focused with his progression, but hey if there's some advantage...

Funny how you omit tall and skinny when it comes to wads, and with what would probably be a +AI if not for said neck.

[Duma]

Ondra hasn't been skinny for 5 years or so (for an elite climber) and without the neck he wouldn't be particularly tall either. He's also flexible, the lack of which is the default excuse of the tall for some reason.

[SA Chris]

Aye, but he did a lot of his hard climbs when he was skinny kin, and he'd definitely not be regarded as a shortarse compared to a lot of the elite.