[DaveRedpath]

Hi, has anyone got any beta for Thriller at Malham?

I've had a couple of sessions on it now and can't seem to work it out? Perhaps the dubious looking rock scar has something to do with it.

As far as I could see you either climb 1m left of the bolts (Bat route holds?) to vertically pinch then flip the undercuts, or, backhand the undercut on the right to reach for a crappy dink pinch.

Both methods seemed more like font 7b+/c - too hard for F7c+.

Please help ??? 

[Ru]

Bear in mind that it's 10 years ago that I did this but I think I can remember the gist of it:

From Consenting belay undercuts you reach up and clip the bolt in the roof, then reverse back one move to the undercuts again. From there you reach left with LH to a bobbly pinch, RH to massive triangular blocky pinch, LH further left to an undercut, RH reach back right to high, deep undercut in roof which you get on the left hand side, leaving space on the right to cross hands and match with LH, then a span to the nesty jug.

The whole thing only adds about 5 or so moves but they're quite big moves and the route loops out left and then back right from the belay of consentin rather than going directly past the bolt. I doubt anything has broken off as all the holds are very much part of the rock.

[DaveRedpath]

Cheers for that Ru 

"LH further left to an undercut" - The only hold that I found to match that desc is a small half tip undercut level with the RH blocky pinch, couldn't move off it though Only holds between latter pinch and the big undercuts are all fairly rubbish half tippers.

After over an hour hanging up there I'm convinced something is missing? 

Anyone done it this year?

[Ru]

Cheers for that Ru 

"LH further left to an undercut" - The only hold that I found to match that desc is a small half tip undercut level with the RH blocky pinch, couldn't move off it though Only holds between latter pinch and the big undercuts are all fairly rubbish half tippers.

After over an hour hanging up there I'm convinced something is missing? 

Anyone done it this year?

Maybe it's up a bit and left. I can't find a picture that shows it. Stu did Victor Hugo recently so he may remember better. I'd be surprised if the hold had come off, I remember it as being very well fused with the surrounding rock.

[Charlton Chestwig]

i've some quite vauge knowledge...

from the left end of the CA "squashed ball bag" you move up and left on side pulls; when these run out I threw for a shite pinch with my left hand (sometimes in a wet patch) then from this back right to the good selection of holds which includes the undercuts you are refering to.

non of these holds are particularly close to bat route

It is extremely difficult to "work" though since when you drop it you have to start from the family jewels again. Certainly no-more than V7.

if i every cover the ground again i might have more detailed info.

[Stu Littlefair]

I do it quite a lot these days to power up my burly undercut muscles. Nothing's come off it. It's quite fair at 7c+, so if you're finding anything harder than font 7a you're doing it wrong! I'd stick clip the belay and look around for the holds, as it's quite hard to see them on the dog.

From CA cross with RH to the big triangular pinch that Ru is on about. There's some tricky foot shuffling here and then you reach left to a decent (first joint) undercut. It's not much higher than the big pinch. From here it's up with RH to a small undercut/sidepull which is at the end of the 'arrow' of black rock. Left hand snatches into big undercut just left of this, then you use a very big undercut for your RH, and cross through with your LH into another big undercut slightly beneath and to the right of this. Drop onto this (using another big undercut on right for stability). Usually you then go up to the big hole with your right, but it's full of birds nest, so you need to clip off the undercuts, which is not too bad.

Victor Hugo (the continuation) is absolutely top class, but hard for 8b, IMO.

[DaveRedpath]

Right, from what your saying Stu I need to be about 1m to the left of the consenting belay?

The big RH triangular pinch is in black rock, that good LH sidepull is off to the left then I can stand up for that wee RH tufa undercut and slap back right along the undercuts?

Thanks everyone - I'm fear for my sanity when F7c+ feels hard. I'll have another go

[Ru]

There you go. I was almost, but not entirely, completely wrong.