[lincoln.3]

Does anyone know how the Uk representitives got on in todays qualifying round in Sheffield?

[robertostallioni]

hommes

femmes

[lincoln.3]

Cheers.
 

[climbingjoe1984]

Was I the only person who found the constant shouting of the announcer in the final for the crowd to make noise continuously a little irritating?

The climbing was superb and it is great we get these events in the uk.

[Nibile]

i watched it on streaming and it was great indeed!

[Jim]

Was I the only person who found the constant shouting of the announcer in the final for the crowd to make noise continuously a little irritating?

No, everybody I spoke to said a similar thing, only they used the words "fucking annoying" rather than "a little irritating"

[mr__j5]

That was indeed the case.

However, I am pretty sure that it was a better atmosphere for it. But really I think you want commentary somewhere between Ian's factual and Dustin's manic Canadian ranting.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Was I the only person who found the constant shouting of the announcer in the final for the crowd to make noise continuously a little irritating?

No, everybody I spoke to said a similar thing, only they used the words "fucking annoying" rather than "a little irritating"

[Nick B]

Either way, brilliant competition.

[dobbin]

Was Dustin on telly in the 80s with Ted Rogers? no, sorry - that was Dusty Bin.

[Jaspersharpe]

Was Dustin on telly in the 80s with Ted Rogers Les Dennis?

Yes!

[SA Chris]

Les Dennis, the French Fire Engine.

[namnok]

Either way, brilliant competition.

once again a well organised comp by graemeA

[Scouse D]

very good comp ruined for me by Dustin.
Saying things to a crowd like 'you're really letting me down now' does not wash well with British sensibilities. We didn't give a fuck that he felt let down just wished he'd shut up.

[sidewinder]

Comp was good.  Found the women's problems more enjoyable to watch, not just due to the gender of the competitors but because I felt they seemed to flow better/create more tension.  Wondered if the heat maybe adversely affected the climbing of some of the problems, particularly the mens one that no one topped out on where they had to hang some tiny rail for the second move.

Also agree that the commentator was awful, at the beginning I even considered leaving, I am guessing someone must of had a word with him as he seemed to become slightly less awful as it went on, why would people mindlessly cheer for 30 seconds/whatever as someone is static on a wall trying to adjust their hands on a sloper/jam?

[Johnny Brown]

That commentator was an twat. Loads of folk left the comp and passed by our stand saying they couldn't stand it any more.

[Reprobate_Rob]

Yeah, apart from the commentator I thought the comp was excellent yesterday. Shame the first moves on the Men's 2nd problem seemed so nails though - never got to see anybody climbing that zebra-striped split volume at the top.

They should've got the commentators from last year's BBC's in -  Audrey Seguy and that fella who came out with the lines 'more SYKED than a badger on crack' and 'the endurance of a seal'.

[GraemeA]

That commentator was an twat. Loads of folk left the comp and passed by our stand saying they couldn't stand it any more.

Dustin isn't a twat, he is merely a Canadian who didn't understand that a British audience doesn't need constantly egging on. But he does now. I guess the adrenaline got the better off him despite my warnings to him to not be OTT.

Having said that without Dustin doing his thing the atmosphere would have been a lot more muted. Remember the thread last year when you all said how we needed a more upbeat MC as it was too muted. Well I thought the atmosphere yesterday was the best at any of the BWC's that I have been to so far this year (I've been to 7 out of the 8 so far) and Dustin contributed significantly to that atmosphere.


And "that fella who came out with the lines 'more SYKED than a badger on crack' " is bloody useless and doesn't have a clue what he is on about 

[Gus]

Amazing, well organised and super inspiring comp.

As for the commentator, I find it's never a good sign when your own girlfriend offers you money to choke someone out!

[namnok]

That commentator was an twat. Loads of folk left the comp and passed by our stand saying they couldn't stand it any more.

Dustin isn't a twat, he is merely a Canadian who didn't understand that a British audience doesn't need constantly egging on. But he does now. I guess the adrenaline got the better off him despite my warnings to him to not be OTT.

[butters]

Anyone else remember that Harry Enfield character?

"Oi - loud and shouty Canadian MC - NO!!"

[Simon Brown]

Was I the only person who found the constant shouting of the announcer in the final for the crowd to make noise continuously a little irritating?

No, everybody I spoke to said a similar thing, only they used the words "fucking annoying" rather than "a little irritating"

 

Irritating and over loud to the point where some of our potential customers walked away from our marquee.  As usual CragX was directly opposite the circus tent. One question asked was if it was Beavis or Butthead who was commentating.

As for Graeme's "Well I thought the atmosphere yesterday was the best at any of the BWC's that I have been to so far this year (I've been to 7 out of the 8 so far) and Dustin contributed significantly to that atmosphere." that is one of the reasons I avoid competitions; the "atmosphere" coming from the circus tent on Sunday was utterly ghastly. Having watched one film of cage fighting(for research, it seemed like a codified and glamourised street brawl outside a cheap night club) the noise from  the competition commentator's delivery seemed very similar to their announcer. This is a major headline event; climbers are often potrayed by a mostly ignorant mass media as an irresponsible rabble, the Sunday night commentary did little to rebutt that prejudice.

To steal from one of my school reports "could, and should do better"

[abarro81]

Yes, we should all sit around with our hampers, picnics, strawberries and cream, and little British flags making remarks like "oh tremendously good work old chap". But not too loudly.
Disclaimer: I wasn't there, have never been to cliffhanger, and on the streaming you couldn't hear this Dustin guy that much.

P.S. I like being part of an irresponsible rabble.

[Gus]

You should have been there to witness the "irresponsible rabble" scenes at the Broady when the fun police came out and shut down the tunes and wanted everyone to do one home, well good!

The scenes in the park afterwards sounded amazing!! Irresponsible rabble on!!

[Simon Brown]

Yes, we should all sit around with our hampers, picnics, strawberries and cream, and little British flags making remarks like "oh tremendously good work old chap". But not too loudly.
Disclaimer: I wasn't there, have never been to cliffhanger, and on the streaming you couldn't hear this Dustin guy that much.

P.S. I like being part of an irresponsible rabble.

What a spiffing suggestion my dear chap! That colonial fellow's presentation was rather loud and vulgar. So glad you were mostly spared his ravings with this new wire service you young chaps use nowadays. Rather unsure about the flags though; such overenthusiastic nationalism is why my family arrived on these civilised and tolerant shores over the previous couple of centuries.

I delight for you that you like being part of an irreponsible rabble. In the interests of diversity, please accept some of us choose not to be part of one.

I do approve of your  suggestion about picnic hampers. Especially the strawberries. I'll forego the cream however, that would make me physically sick.

Be well abarro

[Steve R]

Well, thanks to Dustin I did actually shout out quite loud at the comp, something I never imagined myself doing beforehand.  Unfortunately my booing didn't really catch on.  All other aspects great entertainment though, hats off to the organisers.

[Simon Brown]

Well, thanks to Dustin I did actually shout out quite loud at the comp, something I never imagined myself doing beforehand.  Unfortunately my booing didn't really catch on.  All other aspects great entertainment though, hats off to the organisers.

Splendidly put sir 

[boulderingbacon]

well i couldnt give a shit about dustin and his ranting, all i know is that i stood there and cheered every competitor because they all gave it every thing. it was a shame no one English made the finals, that really would of made for a special atmosphere.

[GraemeA]

Would it have been that much of a shame if a Welsh, Scottish or Northern Irish climber had been in the final?

But good on yer for cheering everyone else on, I think thats one of the good things about climbing comps, there seems to be very little seperation of nationalities  both in terms of the climbers and the support from the audiences. Of course a British crowd will always cheer louder for a Brit, as a Dutch crowd cheer louder for a Dutch climber but both crowds always will cheer/applaud everyone. And the way that the climbers support each other is great - guess this is one of the effects of people climbing with each other at crags and gyms.

Best example of the none partisan nature of the athletes is Vail 2008 when Alex Johnson was screaming encouragement at Anna Stohr on the last boulder in the final even though Alex knew that Anna topping would deprive her of 1st place. "I know, I just want to see someone climb that boulder"

[climbingjoe1984]

I think its a real shame that the commentators arn't allowed to say any results over the PA as this removes context from the event. People are going to shout louder if they know that an ascent of a problem secures first place and 70 points clear at the top of the world rankings with 1 event to go (like Kilian Fischhuber this year). I know this is part of the rules of the completion, but a "silent disco" style event would get around this. This would allowed the crowd to get loads more information, which we are used to when watching sport on the TV. This would also allow Big Ron to say what he thinks, rather than risking putting his foot in it by not knowing the (lengthy and detailed) rules and regs.

What do other people think about this as an idea?



 

[slackline]

I think its a real shame that the commentators arn't allowed to say any results over the PA as this removes context from the event. People are going to shout louder if they know that an ascent of a problem secures first place and 70 points clear at the top of the world rankings with 1 event to go (like Kilian Fischhuber this year). I know this is part of the rules of the completion, but a "silent disco" style event would get around this. This would allowed the crowd to get loads more information, which we are used to when watching sport on the TV. This would also allow Big Ron to say what he thinks, rather than risking putting his foot in it by not knowing the (lengthy and detailed) rules and regs.

What do other people think about this as an idea?

I think it will then cost you more to get into the competition in the first place to pay for your "silent disco" results.

[dobbin]

I think its a real shame that the commentators arn't allowed to say any results over the PA as this removes context from the event. People are going to shout louder if they know that an ascent of a problem secures first place and 70 points clear at the top of the world rankings with 1 event to go (like Kilian Fischhuber this year). I know this is part of the rules of the completion, but a "silent disco" style event would get around this. This would allowed the crowd to get loads more information, which we are used to when watching sport on the TV. This would also allow Big Ron to say what he thinks, rather than risking putting his foot in it by not knowing the (lengthy and detailed) rules and regs.

What do other people think about this as an idea?

I think that would rob it of any remaining atmosphere.

[Johnny Brown]

but a "silent disco" style event

No idea what that is, headphones? How about a big screen only visible from the audience with points and scrolling comments/ context/ explanation. The screen last weekend was a bit small and hidden, and had no explanation of what was on it.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

And a #cliffhanger twitterfeed so people could abuse it post stuff like "Go Ned" or "Dobbin iz gey".

[grumpycrumpy]

You should have been there to witness the "irresponsible rabble" scenes at the Broady when the fun police came out and shut down the tunes and wanted everyone to do one home, well good!

The scenes in the park afterwards sounded amazing!! Irresponsible rabble on!!

I've always found it odd that when people are merely doing their job , in this case trying to clear a pub so that they're not in breach of their license , they're described as 'fun police ' ......

[GraemeA]

You should have been there to witness the "irresponsible rabble" scenes at the Broady when the fun police came out and shut down the tunes and wanted everyone to do one home, well good!

The scenes in the park afterwards sounded amazing!! Irresponsible rabble on!!

I've always found it odd that when people are merely doing their job , in this case trying to clear a pub so that they're not in breach of their license , they're described as 'fun police ' ......

Well Sam had arranged it that we could stay until midnight, the fun police cleared us all out at 11.30 in a very rude way. The climbers were not causing any problems and the staff were loudly telling everyone to fuck off home. They were definately out of order.

[GraemeA]

I think its a real shame that the commentators arn't allowed to say any results over the PA as this removes context from the event. People are going to shout louder if they know that an ascent of a problem secures first place and 70 points clear at the top of the world rankings with 1 event to go (like Kilian Fischhuber this year). I know this is part of the rules of the completion, but a "silent disco" style event would get around this. This would allowed the crowd to get loads more information, which we are used to when watching sport on the TV. This would also allow Big Ron to say what he thinks, rather than risking putting his foot in it by not knowing the (lengthy and detailed) rules and regs.

What do other people think about this as an idea?

Different Chief Judges have different opinions about talking about rankings etc. When I am Jury President I tell the MC that they can talk about rankings, the JP last weekend disagrees with this interpretation. This inconsistency needs clearing up and I am certain it will be fairly soon as I mentioned it to Marco (IFSC President) on Monday and he agrees that ranking info is essential. The climbers know what they need to do anyway.

[slackline]

The climbers know what they need to do anyway.

Top out all the problems, non?

[GraemeA]

You know what I mean, both Alex and Alexey knew that if they topped P4 on Sunday they would win with 3 tops

[Percy B]

[erm, sam]

BOOM. That's my daughter Ruby sat on the bench behind the red hoody bloke, eating candy floss at 0.55. Don't know what she thought about the climbing.....

[boulderingbacon]

one last thing i would like to mention is about how the round is scored. it seemed to me that fischuber wasnt the best climber that day but still won because he took less attempts on the problems he did get up. i thought it would be good if the other problems you try were graded on to how high you get(eg give each hold a corresponding number) then if thats equal go to the attempts rule.

[GraemeA]

one last thing i would like to mention is about how the round is scored. it seemed to me that fischuber wasnt the best climber that day but still won because he took less attempts on the problems he did get up. i thought it would be good if the other problems you try were graded on to how high you get(eg give each hold a corresponding number) then if thats equal go to the attempts rule.

So a similar scoring system to Lead. This has been looked at and dismissed for 2 main reasons.
1. If the boulders have significantly different numbers of holds/moves then you can't equate them eg the running jump had 3 handholds whereas boulder #2 (with the drop down at the start) had lots more holds so you could have scored the same for dropping down onto the volume as you would have for topping out on the dyno
2. You can't use Lead scoring when you have loads of volumes or complicated sequences that require multiple hand movements

[Jim]

really enjoyed cliffhanger as did my family. however the climbing comp wasn't really for me. far too loud and I struggled to see cos I was at the back.
good to catch up with a lot of friends I hadn't seen for a while