[tomtom]

I'm wondering what this problem is.. Its right in the middle of black wall (around the corner from the dreamland bay) at the lowest and normally boggy bit of the wall. Like the name said, there are two opposing side pulls, feet up high then a huuuuuge reach or dyno looks more likely. It's not on yorkshiregrit.com and I remember being shown it 3-4 years ago but forgotten/don't know the grade etc..
Any knowledge out there?

[GCW]

5:50 onwards.  Nik and I tried Black Wall Dyno and got nowhere!!

[tomtom]

That's the one! Cheers G... Uptown makes these things look so easy! I had a play last thing of the day and couldn't get off the ground :D

[GCW]

We were pulling on, but weren't getting the high feet.  Hurts my wrist IIRC so we gave up pretty quickly.

[tomtom]

We were pulling on, but weren't getting the high feet.  Hurts my wrist IIRC so we gave up pretty quickly.

Smears were greasy in the sun, my tips were red raw so I gave up.. One to think about for future though.. Looks like it favours the lank.. Any grade ideas bounded around?

[GCW]

7B if my memory serves.

[moose]

I had a few goes unsucessful goes last year - I remember 7a+ was bandied about by a local.  Incidentally, lank didn't help me - the smeary footholds were far too high and bunched.  The only person to manage it was Martin Wood, a wee fella, who as I recall used it as a direct start for a solo of Arries Ook

[Stubbs]

A great dyno, seems quite unlikely until you start jumping.

[moose]

I agree, I came close a few times - finger tips brushing the target hold.  Just seems so unlikely until you commit to getting the feet up on the highest smears - then it all feels a bit more feasible.  It's not a straightforward jump though - there's a subtle bulge below the target so you have to jump outwards... but not too far!  Blackhead to the right looks good too... but a bit scarier to work.

[andy_e]

Oh, I thought you were on about Blackhead!

[Stabbsy]

I've done the non-dyno version that goes up the vague groove and then reaches back right to the hold that Uptown jumps to in the video. Think it's in the routes guide as the direct start to 'Arries 'Ook. 7a+ seemed about right when I did it, but it took a while to work out a sequence that was feasible. The footwork was the hard bit to work out for me. Lank was quite helpful for the last move, but doesn't help much for the start!

[moose]

I think the slopey ramp - the direct start to Arries Ook - is V6/f7a in the guides.  It's very conditions / skin dependent though - sometimes feels absolutely impossible.  The dyno is independent from it though, rather than being a static version.  It finishes on the same hold (the foothold at the end of traverse on Arries 'Ook) but goes from different holds to its right.

[tomtom]

A good height independant problem though - that start really punishes us lanksters

Its one to mark out for Autumn.. slithering up those smears was not pleasant on friday...