[simon40]

After much much trying to do the initail move up from the slopey ledge, i despair and now looking for tips, cheats and ideas...i am presuming its two hands on the large sloper, feet under and and an all mighty lunge upwards to the good finger edges with right hand-i can do the rest........

[Andy B]

That's how it was done originally, but since then people have found a high left (I think) heel toe in the break, level with your hands. It's tricky to get in right (get your hips tipped), but once locked it makes the reach up (with your left hand) much easier. With this sequrnce you go to the small detached looking crescent crimp with your left, then up to the better hold with your right, before going left to the dogs mouth crimp etc.

[Dolly]

Has one of the crimps come off this ?
I was there on Saturday and looked like there was an area of broken rock about a foot left of the good hold on the right.
Was that the crimp to go for or have others gone all the way to the good hold ?
I must admit I haven't tried just lunging like a lanky twat to get the good hold - maybe I'll try that next time.

[jowgli]

Hi Dolly, I noticed the broken patch of rock you mentioned whilst up there a few days ago and I think that was the edge. There is still a bit of a hold there though I think. I haven't done the problem btw, being quite tall i find it really hard to lunge from the ledge and make the distance with the right hand before i'm sitting back on the pad, i might try this heel toe method 

[J_duds]

I saw that hold on the ground next to the problem about 3 wks back.

A possibly very bunched method: I went from sloper to a small crimp with LH about 20-30cm above sloper ledge, right foot heel on sloper ledge and stretched up to the RH good crimp, then followed the crimps to the top.

Cheers
John

[Eddies]

I started with both hands on ledge and found a few good edges for feet and powered up to the good edge with R/H, then put R/F on right end of ledge, flagged Left leg under and pulled up past the broken flake to the small sharp crimp above, from ther its a simple case of reaching R/H to the shallow 2-finger pocket and pop for the top with L/H

[Dolly]

Cheers for the replies.
Will give it another go then.
Anyone done Red or Dead ?
Its a looong way to the pocket with a left heel on the ledge

[J_duds]

i think my feet were underneath the ledge for the first hand move leftwards on RoD.

[Eddies]

Its not as far as it looks, just pull hard on that left heel.... thats enough beta, anymore we'll have to climb them for you 

[dave k]

I started with both hands on ledge and found a few good edges for feet and powered up to the good edge with R/H

Thats because you are a lank meister!

I am pretty bouncy and not even that short, but am still a good 2 inches short of the good edge with the right hand.

Given its been a few years since this was discussed, is there now a short(er) persons sequence for this. I will give that left heal toe a go next time. The intermediate crimp with the LH is thin though.