Torridon- Malcolms Arrete (Read 6560 times)

iwasmexican · June 24, 2011, 06:29:39 pm

so was trying malcolms arrete the other day and after a few tries got the first few moves wired but the move to the top just would not seem to budge, was trying going to the obvious sticking out hold on the lip with feet on the lower sloper thing and a break more in the middle of the wall...
not sure if we were doing something wrong or not but it felt a lot more than 7a+..... $:-\$

JohnM · June 24, 2011, 09:01:23 pm

Don't know if this vid is any help?

http://vimeo.com/groups/54664/videos/15574437

iwasmexican · June 25, 2011, 01:18:10 am

Quote from: JohnM on June 24, 2011, 09:01:23 pm

Don't know if this vid is any help?

http://vimeo.com/groups/54664/videos/15574437

i suppose so, but that way the top part just felt so damn hard...

SA Chris · June 26, 2011, 02:01:32 pm

There used to be a pebble out right you could use to rock up with,but I think it's been gone for a few years now, so strong seems the only option.

Another vid, not much more use

iwasmexican · June 29, 2011, 12:38:05 am

Quote from: SA Chris on June 26, 2011, 02:01:32 pm

strong seems the only option.

maybe so then, its seems somewhat excessively hard for 7a+ though...

richieb · June 29, 2011, 07:50:35 am

Conditions make a huge difference on this move. Sounds like you were trying it the same way as most people do it, aim for the very apex of the arete and in the right conditions the lip feels good and grippy.
Even better if you are tall enough to keep your feet on...good luck!

iwasmexican · June 30, 2011, 11:45:32 am

ah just the man to ask, does this way not work since the hold broke then?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/richiebetts/3098757430/#secret844d4d3a5fin/set-72157606440034322

nai · June 30, 2011, 02:44:55 pm

I've managed to convince my wife to visit Skye on our family holiday in August so I can drop in to do this.

7a+ is a grade I expect to manage in a visit but I'm wondering if it's worth the journey if it's so hard and conditions are such a big factor.

Is it really hard for 7a+, harder for the short, safe with one pad and a distracted spotter chasing after children?

SA Chris · June 30, 2011, 02:53:10 pm

Not done it, so can't comment on difficulty, but it's not the only problem at Torridon. There are dozens of probs of easier and harder grades and most are of excellent quality. Easily enough to keep you occupied for a day.

You will need a cool windy day in August though; cool for conditions and windy enough that you and the family don't get midged to death.

nai · June 30, 2011, 03:08:16 pm

I know I'll need to be lucky with the weather and appreciate there's other stuff but this is the problem that really inspires me to make the journey.

Stuff on Mull looks good and the family would be as happy there as Skye, so if it's very low percentage chance of doing Malcolm's I'd abort and try again another time.

SA Chris · June 30, 2011, 03:21:05 pm

Some pretty good bouldering on Skye?

Where will you be based on Skye anyway; it's a fair haul on slowish roads to Torridon; I reckon from Glenbrittle it would be about an 1:45 - 2 hours.

nai · June 30, 2011, 03:40:34 pm

The plan would be to drop in on the way through rather than make a trip out from the isle, loose plan is to drive up from Falkirk (family visit) to Torridon, probably with a stopover elsewhere, over to Skye then island hop via Uist and Mull back down toward in-laws in Ardrossan.

SA Chris · June 30, 2011, 03:53:19 pm

Ah OK. Be a nice trip. Some lovely beaches on N & S Uist too, and relatively few midges.

sxrxg · June 30, 2011, 03:58:28 pm

I was up in torridon and tried this, seemed hard for 7a+. I did however only get to try it in crap conditions as the weather was really poor for all 4 days we were there. Also i would say it is not really a one pad problem being quite high by the top throw and covering quite a lot of horizontal ground. I missed three pads trying to hold the ledge before the top throw! Had a soft landing though in the bog that surrounds the boulder! - take a tarp for your mats and wellies for the approach.

Even if you don't manage this problem the rock and scenery is amazing, it is well worth the drive up. Another option for climbing on the lovely red torridon sandstone are the Loch Kishorn boulders, these are about 30/40 minutes closer when coming from Skye and while not as good or as large as the blocks in torridon itself are in a lovely setting and have some fine problems (may need a quick brush first - mind you so do most scottish boulders apart from those at dumbarton!).

andy_e · June 30, 2011, 05:16:53 pm

Quote from: sxrxg on June 30, 2011, 03:58:28 pm

(may need a quick brush first - mind you so do most scottish boulders apart from those at dumbarton!).

What about those cold, windy and exposed boulders that never have any moss growing on them because no moss dare to?

iwasmexican · June 30, 2011, 05:57:05 pm

Quote from: andi_e on June 30, 2011, 05:16:53 pm

What about those cold, windy and exposed boulders that never have any moss growing on them because no moss dare to?

like the ruthven boulder with its heather hat...?

SA Chris · June 30, 2011, 07:49:38 pm

The coldest boulder in the world ever. Some great probs though, if your skin is good enough.

richieb · June 30, 2011, 09:52:40 pm

Quote from: iwasmexican on June 30, 2011, 11:45:32 am

ah just the man to ask, does this way not work since the hold broke then?

Yeah that way doesn't work anymore I'm afraid. Both the move to the slopey shelf and the move from the shelf to the top are harder. The hold is on my desk at work these days...

granticus · July 01, 2011, 12:15:39 am

Quote

7a+ is a grade I expect to manage in a visit but I'm wondering if it's worth the journey if it's so hard and conditions are such a big factor.

Is it really hard for 7a+, harder for the short, safe with one pad and a distracted spotter chasing after children?

A comment from a casual observer, not usually inclined to comment on threads about problems I know absolutely nothing about..... (here comes the but).... but if the problem inspires you then set to it and get on it, sure you might fail because it's harder than the mooted grade but shirley that doesn't matter a jot. It looks like an inspiring line to try (the wall to the right looks amazing too), so why get bogged down with what grade it is, whether you'll succeed or what reputation it has? Just go and enjoy trying the moves, who knows you might reach the top..

Talking of reaching the top, does anyone else think there is a suspicious edit on one of those videos? Looks like someone might have reached the top but I didn't see them topping out???!

nai · July 01, 2011, 07:59:34 am

So it was hard for the grade, lost a pebble, is harder, but the grade remains unchanged? Hmmm, reminds me of something else but I can't think what $:-\$

Cheers for all the replies. You're all right that we should just head up and enjoy the area and other climbing if it does prove too hard, we'll plan to go that way and see where the weather takes us.