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Euro climbing trip... routes of choice please! (Read 3583 times)

Red

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Hi all

I am embarking on a climbing trip around Europe for some time  :bounce: and am compiling a list of quality routes for the trip. We are going to Germany/Austria/Spain/France/possibly further down to Croatia/Turkey etc.

If anyone has any favourite routes (or outstanding crags for that matter) for my list I would be really grateful if you could share. I am looking for routes from 7A to 7C which would suit the shorter in stature and a more feminine build (i.e. I am a girl).  No death slabs/trad/nasty run outs please :)

Cheers!


Red

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Thanks for that. We will be in Europe from September to December (routes/bouldering), USA from Dec to Feb (bouldering) and back to Europe until May (routes/bouldering).

and oh my god that route looks AMAZING

Charlton Chestwig

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the best route i've done in france is Blocage Violent @ Ceuse; if you are thinking of heading there.

Paul B

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Germany:
Frankenjura, Andy Harris' Top of the Pockets' CragX article is worth seeking (ignore Baum im Rucken) out unfortunately I returned the guidebooks to Dobbin so I can't help much further currently. Backerei Muller should be on everybodys list though.

Pfalz - a little different (sandstone sport[ish]), a few of the crags are REALLY good and the bolting is recognisable as sport. There's a bouldering guide to this area now too although I can't vouch for its quality.

Austria:
Zillertal - Ewige Jagrunde is pretty nice. All of the lower grade routes are of high quality then there are two high 7's, "When Dolphins Cry" and "The Manitou", the latter of which is soft as hell but the climbing is utterly amazing. Don't be tempted to go up the hill to Tulfer and Barinou, they're winter sun crags and sika'd to death.

Chinese Mauer - can't remember which region its in?

Schlierwasserfall in my opinion isn't worth a visit. The right hand side is polished to a level that makes pinches wall look untouched and oddly the LHS is exactly the opposite, untouched, unloved and dirty. If you do go Aqualung is good but very reminiscent of Ceuse but shorter and not as good. The walk in is ridiculously easy compared to Ceuse.

Otztal - Niederthai is a fantastic setting. The longer routes near "Titty Twister" are good and granite sport climbing seemed like a novelty.

France:
Ceuse - there's countless threads on this but most of the higher 7's at Cascade are worth a blast, Tenere being the best followed swiftly by Privelege. Almost everything on Berlin wall falls within the grade range too (Blockage, Berlin etc.). Further right there are the ever classics of Bibendum etc. etc. Visit the Pizzeria!

Buoux - fantastic crag. The routes around TCF are all worth a look. Also No Mans Land although sharp is a great line.

Verdon - My favourite place. The Pizzeria once again is fantastic. The routes I'd recommend here would likely be below your target but they're VERY good. Within the grade range Surveiller et Punir is the best route of that grade I've ever done.

Gorges du Tarn - I'm not sure what the deal is with bolts atm but L'Oasif has some juggy fun (Monstre Trou?) and the left hand end of the Grand Toit has some standout fun 7's. I found mono's my good lady found many a two finger pocket.

Spain:

Riglos - Fiesta looks incredible. Don't stray outside of the chalk!

Vilanove de Meia - again multi-pitch fun (close to Terradets for a bit of a change).

Tres Ponts - I don't have a guide (its a binder rammed in a hole at the crag). I think some people don't really get on with this place and the setting isn't stunning yet I found the climbing to be great.

Rodellar - Make sure you get here before it gets wet (grumble)! Lola went down well with my better half, Pince sans rire is great if a little amusingly bolted. I'm pretty certain most of the routes in the Ventanas are great but very burly.

Montsant - Pump fest, keep going until you eventually peel off. Worth visiting as a break from the Brit-infested Siurana.

Margalef - Finestra is the jewel here, a horseshoe (in shape) of great rock. The lefthand end is 7's heaven and two routes that stand out both involve the obvious not yet formed tufa features (the guide is just grey lines so I can't figure out which is which). If I can push you a + further then Aeroplastika becomes an obvious target. At the other end of the spectrum the warm-up 6b+ on flowstone is brilliant too.
Behind Finestra is Tenebres, its steeper with bigger holds and all of the routes on the steep arete (7c-8a) are worth ticking, I think Corva is the best here but again I'm a plus too far.
Other areas of note are "El Balco de l'ermita", "Cova Soleida (and surrounding outcrops)" and "Ca la Marte".

Stabbsy

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I'd second the Montsant recommendation, we didn't do a bad route there (mostly in the 7b/+ range). The wall with Hydrophobia and L-Mens looks amazing, but I don't think there's much under 7c. Think there's a shortish 7c+, but most things are 8a and up.

In France, I'd recommend St. Leger for a visit, plus Baume Rousse for Rahan, fils de Crao (I think) - 7b+. The newer sector at St. Leger (La Baleine) looks stunning but we didn't get chance to climb there.

Paul B

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add Tresor de Zebra @ Gorges du Tarn to my earlier recommendations.

As Nat has returned home with her little book of all things trip related I can be more helpful re: the jura:

Trautner ged wand - Go Go
Krottenseer Turm - Chasin' the train (Hitch-hiking is also great as is Ira Technokratie, no doubt Wallstreet ain't bad either)
Marienthaler Wand
Soranger Wand - Massaker (a mini action directe, good for a bit of fun but VERY short)
Rabenfels - There's a good bit of Gullich history here but its worth visiting this to top out on the pillar alone!
Weissenstein - Dampfhammer and the other 3* 7a's here.
Heldwand - Lara Croft, Heldbrau etc.
Barenschlucht wand - there's a great number of high quality low-mid 7's here.
Zwergenschloss - plenty of meat here at 7c and above.


mrjonathanr

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Liqueur de Coco, soft 7c+ and Farci pas La, 7c are both good ticks in the Verdon. Do Gwendal, 1 7b pitch bolted to be easily aided if need be and half a dozen 3* pitches 6b+ to 6c+. Goes bottom to top, fully bolted. Awesome.

Red

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I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, it will be a major help. We have worked out a pretty good route now... first stop Frankenjura, then down through France and Spain and maybe Italy. Too much cool stuff to do to make it further east! Thanks again

 

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