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All the 8c's and above in UK (Read 17540 times)

Paul B

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#25 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 27, 2011, 09:34:25 pm
8b+?

Doylo

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#26 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 27, 2011, 09:34:54 pm
8b+

dave

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#27 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 27, 2011, 09:40:57 pm
piss then. ignore me.

AJM

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#28 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 27, 2011, 10:09:18 pm
I'd be surprised if that's true, considering it was bolted for Chris to try. I expect it has more to do with the rebolting efforts by locals around the time of the ascent.

I definitely remember that quote being in the old topo or old guide too. Sadly I lost the previous edition of the topo and my CC guide is in the car, but that text definitely appeared in one or the other of them.

I thought it was a pretty old project (there was at least one route that was described as having a mortgage for the bolts payable to F Haden or some such, I thought it was this one although obviously could be mistaken), but then thats just based on the text quoted above, which sort of suggested it had been there for a while.

Kingy

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#29 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 27, 2011, 10:27:58 pm
Batshadow 8c+, Malham

David S

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#30 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 09:00:34 am
Thanks Roberto

Three Nine

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#31 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 09:14:32 am
Yes, it alludes to the statement in the CC Avon and Cheddar guide that the project which became BGT was 'too hard for Bristol climbers'. Personally I think its a shit name, but there you go.

I'd be surprised if that's true, considering it was bolted for Chris to try. I expect it has more to do with the rebolting efforts by locals around the time of the ascent.

Not every beast has to be all self-effacing, even though it seems to be expected these days!

TommyG

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#32 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 09:20:51 am
Is the "Bastard" not regarded as 8c+ by those in the know?

A few friends have tried it recently with talk of font 8B climbing!

abarro81

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#33 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 10:22:09 am
I was also under the impression that BGT was the old 'too hard for Bristol climbers' project. If it's not then the name is even worse.

David S

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#34 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 01:00:42 pm
Okay so now we have a list. And you all love list's so here's a new challenge. Who's climbed what?

I've added what I know but if you can fill in any (and I'm know there's plenty) that I've missed.

Here's the list:
Scotland
Steal Wall, Glen Nevis
Ring of Steall (8c+) MacLeod

The Anvil
Hunger (9a) Smith
Blood Diamond (8c+) Smith
Metalcore (8c+) MacLeod, Smith
Body Swerve (8c) MacLeod, Smith

Dumbuck
Devastation Generation (8c) MacLeod, Smith, Redpath

Yorkshire
Malham
Overshadow (9a+) McClure, Ondra
Rainshadow (9a) McClure, Ondra
Total Eclipse (8c+) Dunne
Unjustified (8c) Mitchell, Cassidy, Whittaker, Marks, Jeewooth, Smith, Parry, Buys, Napier, Walker
Transformer (8c) Smith
Bat Shadow (8c+) McClure
Bat Route (8c) Leach, McClure, Mawson

Kilnsey
Northern Star (9a/+) McClure
Northern Lights (9a) McClure
Progress (8c+) Moffatt
Magnetic North (8c+) McClure
True North (8c) Mitchell, Parry, Vickers, Sutton, Savage, Buys

Giggleswick
Violent New Breed (9a+) Gaskins
Tonto (8c+) Dunning

Peak District
Raven Tor
Mutation (9a) McClure
Kaabah (8c+) McClure, Pasquill
Hubble (8c+) Moon, McClure
Make it Funky (8c) Zippy, McClure
Mega Whore (8c) McClure
Mecca Extension (8c) McClure, Clark
Evolution (8c) Moffatt, McClure
Mutation (9a) McClure
Hooligan (8c) Dunning, Adams
Stevolution (9a) McClure
Hajj (8c) McClure, Smitton,
Rooster Crossing (8c) McClure

Water cum Jolly
The Bastard (8c+?) Welford. McClure, Simpson

Chee Dale
Dreadnaught (8c) McClure
Somehow Super (8c) McClure

Wales
Lower Pen Trywn
Liquid Ambar (8c) Moffatt, Robins
Big Bang (9a) Carson
Sea of Tranquility (8c+) Moon, Robins
Infanticide (8c) Carson, Robins

Cheddar
Bristol's Got Talent (8c) Savage
Death Star (8c) Savage

South Coast
Anstey's Cove
Brian (8c+) Palmer

Total 42

Stu Littlefair

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#35 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 01:05:52 pm
Nic Sellars did (at least) Progress and Evolution (which is generally thought to be 8c+ now).

Al Cassidy has done True North.

And you can add have another look at me for Mecca Extension, Make it Funky and Unjustified...

Stu Littlefair

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#36 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 01:08:17 pm
Also, Make it Funky ascents that I know about include

Moon, Heap, Barker (before hold breakage)

Ru Davies after hold breakage.

And you've forgotten Paul Reeve's ascent of Unjustified, which is.

willackers

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#37 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 01:21:23 pm
Malc has done True North and Progress as well.

Jaspersharpe

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#38 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 01:41:37 pm
Welford did MiF too.

David S

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#39 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 01:52:15 pm
How could anyone forget Paul Reeve's Unjustified moment!

chris_j_s

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#40 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 01:52:57 pm
Okay, a few in addition to what others have added:

Ste Mac has done Transformer, Progress, True North and Unjustified
Ondra has done Northern Lights and North Star and Bat Route
Savage has done Progress
Gaskins has done Hubble
Simpson has possibly done Hubble and Liquid Ambar
Dunning has done Hubble
Pasquill has done Evolution

I also think Caff may have done Infanticide

chris_j_s

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#41 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 01:54:32 pm
I think Mutation is on the list twice by the way!

willackers

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#42 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 01:59:01 pm
Smitton has done Mecca Extension, Hooligan, Kaabah.

 and Malc has done Hubble as well.

slackline

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#43 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 02:18:08 pm
Simpson has possibly done Hubble and Liquid Ambar

 :worms:

David S

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#44 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 04:35:03 pm
So what's interesting are the routes that Ste Mac hasn't done. Apart from Scotland, Wales, Cheddar and South Coast  (13 in total), what's left in the Peak and Yorkshire are:
Total Eclipse (8c+)
Violent New Breed (9a+)
Tonto (8c+)
Hooligan (8c)
It's about time he pulled his finger out and stopped mucking about  ;)

David S

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#45 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 28, 2011, 04:48:08 pm
Also the most popular routes (so far) are:

at 8c Unjustified 13 ascents, True North with 9 and Make it Funky with 8.

At 8c+ we have Hubble with 6, Progress with 5 and Evolution with 4

At 9a we have Rainshadow (2), Northern Lights  (2)

and finally at 9a+ we have Overshadow and North Star with 2 each.

Jaspersharpe

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David S

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#47 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 29, 2011, 08:47:43 am
Thanks Jasper, missed those.
It's an ongoing list so I'm sure it will change more times before it's complete with the help of good folk like yourself.

duncan

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#48 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 29, 2011, 09:12:46 am
I do like a good list!  Can people add dates to these ascents? The climbing standards versus economic deprivation correlation needs plotting! 

For some reason I've decided that I'd like to phtograph all of the 8c's and above in the UK.

When the magazine article comes out, will you be crediting ukb, unlike a recent piece on UK strong boys and girls?

Jaspersharpe

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#49 Re: All the 8c's and above in UK
June 29, 2011, 09:19:06 am
I don't think UKB actually wanted to be associated with that outdated, inaccurate article that missed out the most significant UK female bouldering ascent of the year / ever.  :jab:  :P

 

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