[cjsheps]

As some of you know, the BMC Youth Climbing Series final's on Saturday. For the extra edge, considering some kind of glycogen-loading scheme the day before. As far as I know, the premise is:

-Eat no carbs the day before (so basically salad)
-Carb heavy breakfast comp morning
-CRUSH!   

Does anybody here have any advice as regards pre-performance nutrition? This also applies to trying projects etc so would be interesting to know more about.
Cheers

[webbo]

Why. you are not running a marathon and it is'nt that good for that either.The last thing you should do is change your diet/training at the last minute.

[Reprobate_Rob]

Think what you're talking about is glycogen dumping, as used by Tim Emmett on the first ascent of Muy Caliente, and i doubt it's very useful as preeraration for an all-day comp.
The idea is to starve yourself for a day to deplete your glycogen stores along with the water attached to the glycogen, thus losing a few kg's (probably more like grams) in bodyweight. It's only really relevant when projecting, as it'll leave you with just enough energy for one or two burns on a redpoint.
DaveMac explains here - http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/06/glycogen-dumping-and-why-it-probably.html

Carb-loading would be better prep for an all-day comp, but not to the extent a marathon runner would use it.

Just have a big bowl of pasta the day before, a light breakfast and snack on easily digested, quick release carbs throughout the day (fruit/nuts/fancy energy bars etc.)

Like webbo says though, no point doing anything too drastic. You'll just end up either starving or bloated and climb shit.

[Fultonius]

I'm sure a read somewhere about comp climbers trying carb-loading for the fisrt time at a comp and then getting the runs and/or other issues!

[Nibile]

I don't want to be rude, but to me this kind of approach seems a little bit naive, if not amatorial.
we are dealing with young athletes' health, and maybe a more scientific approach would be necessary, that is maybe asking a professional sport nutrition expert, rather than a "why not try this?" question on here.
anyway, I think that it's not about carbo-dumping to lose some weight.
the carb deprivation should deplete the body reserve, so that the following carb intake is absorbed faster and more efficiently, triathletes do this a lot.
but again, these are young athletes, and in my opinion there's no need to go through this drastic kind of preparation at a young age.
I think that good comp tactique and proper eating and drinking throughout the comp could be fine, but I am no expert at all.
again, sorry if sounded rude, it was not my aim.

[robertostallioni]

I'm sure a read somewhere about comp climbers trying carb-loading for the fisrt time at a comp and then getting the runs and/or other issues!

Maybe not C-loading, but sodium bicarb can make you piss like a horse. Apparently.

Maybe you would get the runs if you "trying carb-loading for the fist time" 

[cjsheps]

Thanks a lot guys! It was worth a shot if it stops me climbing like a punter   
Let's hope I'm having an antigravity day then!

[JohnM]

Glycogen dumping will reduce your weight due to water loss but is no good for a comp where you need to climb all day whereas carb loading is probably excessive for climbing and will increase your weight if you manage to increase your glycogen storage.  Therefore the best option is probably to do neither and just maintain a balanced diet.  As someone mentioned earlier eat and sleep well the night before, have a breakfast of complex carbohydrates (e.g. oats etc) and snack regularly during the day on more simple carbohydrates to maintain a steady blood sugar level and take on fluid little and often as well.