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Scurryfunging
22 June 2017, 11:50 pm

To Scurryfunge is an old English verb, meaning to rush around cleaning when company is on their way. The North Wales Bouldering Guide is imminent, and guess what? some of my playthings have made the cut. This got me thinking about the fun I've had, and whether I'd left any low hanging fruit. I was keen to revisit Moose's wall, an ex BOTM, and one of my first major makeover efforts back in 2011 (trying to bring it back to its 90's glory).

I visited this spring and gave it a prune and scrub, the abseil sapling is now a study young tree, and I soon cleaned up the plumb lines of The Biggun 6B! and Something, Something Darkside 7a!. The other lines to the right are rather extravegantly over grown, and I haven't excavated them yet (even back then I hadn't bothered digging out the crack to the left of the Biggun).



This days actual climbing was somewhat hampered by the previous nights pilates session. My upper body was operating tiptop, however I had rather a lot of difficulty connecting it to my lower half. Technical finger jams are rather unforgiving on popping feet....



Returning in June and Summer has sprung. Father's Day allowed a return visit, and I found the bracken to be flourishing. I experimented with a rolling road of bouldering pads, that did the trick.



I also borrowed a little yankee knowhow to protect against technical finger play..



Any finger jams that depend more on the middle two fingers tend to spread the load in part on the other wrigglers. Its only the outer two that have to suffer alone sometimes.

Armed with determination and tape, I got up The Biggun once more. Its a totally satisfying exercise, versed in a variety of jamming techniques and well worth seeking out. Hers a vid of how it went:

Following this success I had a go at linking the start of Something Something Darkside into The Biggun. The midges descended as I made it across the new ground, and beans deserted me as The Biggun loomed. More unfinished business.

With rain forecast, I chanced my arm last night with an adventure with Ben to finish things off. Despite high humidity and looming midge storms we bravely set off on my old Lower Clegir Circuit.

Starting with Z Boys Arete 6A+! (also in the new guide I understand)

A balancey trixsome affair, hampered by midges. However, both ascended and we hoped to escape down to Moose's wall, which may get the breeze off the lake.

The midges Abade..

Despite these little drill sergeants, the link was made. The Name "Something Big" felt Apt and it felt  6B+/C! ish. it was only a couple of moves more in the end, but a more intense start made the Biggun's crux more explicit. The Video is worth watching for Ben's Midge Dance as he spotted:

Ben had a go, but after I abseiled onto his head, the midges had us in retreat. I persuaded him that the Crack House (the next station of the circuit) would be in the breeze and midge free, so we set off once more.

I forgot about the Flourishing Bracken...

Foolishly I forgot to take any photo's of our antics once the bushwhacking ceased, however, here's my good self accidentally photographing myself  there this spring.



And here is a 7 year old photo of myself climbing Shed Party which back then I gave 6B+. One of the highlights of this visit was trying to repeat it, with hazy knowledge of what I'd actually done, and a conviction that the hands had to stay on the Arete (unlike in the photo). I managed this by the skin of my teeth, and it probably wasn't 6B+. It was good though, and as the crack house isn't in the new guide as far as I'm aware, I guess this is the new line of Shed Party.



Walking out via Ben's impressive swathe of destruction.

All in all I'm rather happy, and I hope you'll enjoy visiting these little tributaries of the New Bouldering guide. Remember; there's treasure everywhere.

Source: Hosey B

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Summer Luvin' part one
28 July 2017, 8:59 pm

Summer holidays are upon us, and between the build up to the holidays (where my tribe of chaos monkeys become overly tired and excited at the same time), and the actual kids holidays, I ain't been very active.

The following is a summary of the last month:

Micro adventure number one!

Must try harder, or rather, try to try harder. Hence I cycled up to the Marchlyn dam to see if  the little bit of extra training I've been doing has made the sit projects anymore possible. The answer is possibly yes... The little puppy in the vid is Seamus 6Cish:

Of all the sit projects this one gave a little ground this trip. As in I got more than 1 move off the ground on it. 2 mats, or a spotter would certainly make it easier to commit.

While I was up there I also took the time to repeat Livesey's Love Child 6B for the vid:

First time with a mat and yes, it did feel easier / less deadly this time...

Away Trip!

Yep I left Wales! This was an opportunity to meet up with a friend Andy "Ex-Ex Climber" Farnell who I hadn't climbed with for 25 years or so, as well as hooking up with Simon "Fatneck" Huthwaite and their friend Caleb "'King" Ainsworth. Fun was had bouldering at Blackstone edge in Lancs, yes that was fun, bouldering , and Lancs all in one sentance. Twice for the pedants.

"'King" Caleb throwing shapes on Trig Arete

Posers

Not doing the 7A.

I has a great time shooting the breeze and hustling the rather warm 6A+'s. I even got accused of schooling them when I hadn't been on Peak grit for 4 years or so....

However, I omitted to mention all the Welsh grit out the back of my house

Marchlyn Bach's petite boulder field.

One of the few nice-ish blocs. It was here I spent Micro Adventure Number Two!

I've known about this bloc for a couple of years, but never dragged a pad there. I didn't this time either, as I was only out for a walk and scooter. However, I'd packed my boots just in case, and decided to venture onward old school. The following vids are second ascents, as my first attempts and ascents were somewhat trepidatious and took forever.

The central line eng. 5c

The right hand seam, somewhat more eng. 5c

Micro Adventure Number Three!

Exercising the Monkeys of Chaos. Finally built up the courage to take them on some ladders in the quarries.

Dylan and Ethan in Indy's minecart

Logan Ethan and Dylan all attempting to smile for the camera.. Honest

Old Quarry rules, mainly broken

Dylan brought the roof down..

Playing the Oil Drum Glacier Gong Harp

Logan discovering the magic brown crystals



Being a safe dad and employing a rope...

The Cowboy was the reason for Ethan's Choice of outfit.

Fortunate given the alternatives..

So Plenty weeks more fun to come. I'm sure I'll report in before September...

Have fun Y'all

Source: Hosey B

[Fiend]

Fun was had bouldering at Blackstone edge in Lancs, yes that was fun, bouldering , and Lancs all in one sentance. Twice for the pedants.

That would be "sentence" then....

[comPiler]

Summer Luvin' Part Two
7 September 2017, 10:14 pm

Almost got to this before September...

As I Type, The gorgeous wifey has escaped to the climbing wall to prevent herself murdering our  tribe (or me).

The boys have had a spirited bedtime with much throwing of toys out of the proverbial pram..

All is now silent as the first week of the school term takes its toll.

However the second half of the hols was still ace!

Taking the boys to RAC boulders, Logan actually wanted to climb this with no prompting from his old man, he did some sensible climbs too. Ethan however was more into making  camps with bouldering mats.

I even got to tie a rope on. Around my birthday, Wolf dragged me out and  we went slate climbing. Its been a while, and  we settled on doing a classic neither of us had tried yet; Central Sadness. Strangely, I had no mojo to lead, its been far too long since I've lead trad, certainly since anything remotely challenging anyway, and I had no desire to get scared. Wolf cruised it, although I did get to introduce him to ballnuts and how to secure slings with tensioned skyhooks...

Next Adventure was camping at Rhoscolyn!I can't recommend the campsite at Outdoor Alternative highly enough. All the mod cons, and once there, all the family adventure you could need just a walk away. (There's even B-Active on site if you want some new outdoor experiences, or forgot your gear...)

Mini crags to conquor

Marshmallows by the campfire

Seren admiring the Sea

Proper Bo, as Fatneck Might Say..

Most of our time was spent doing things in a wetsuit, so I hadn't taken piccies. Lots of Coasteering, getting dad nerves as my 8 yr old jumps off cliffs I wussed out of...Also a lot of rockpooling. Theres a large pool that drains slowly as the tide falls, and for the second year a row I found it complete with a swirling shoal of hundreds of tiny blue fish. Proper special.

After recovering from this active week, I picked up My copy of the new bouldering guide. I'm certainly very chuffed at the volume of my boulders to have made the cut. I promptly photoed some pages and sped off to Pacman Boulders, which I had yet to visit. he directions made sense, although as usual I doubted and reinterpreted them on my approach attempt and ended up scrabbling a bit (I'll behave next time). I was pleasently suprised to get a few 6C's second go, and generally enjoyed myself.

All bodes well for this winter.

We even walked the boys a way up Elidir.. (looking at our tiny house)

Major event. We Bought Chickens!Although not this mini one (yet..)

Will's Chickens is on Anglesey, and has hundreds of varieties. Will has 7 kids himself, so was happy to let our lot loose to hug a chicken.

Our 5 Girls exploring our garden.

So there you go, Summer holidays survived, all I need now is the rain to stop so I can start my Autumn Campaign!

Watch  this space.

Source: Hosey B

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Territorial Husbandry
16 September 2017, 8:36 pm

Thought it best I get another blog out, as I try to get back into the swing of things now schools back in. However it appears September is not playing ball. Rather than an indian summer, we seem to be getting a soggy one.

However, if you turn back at the first sign of defeat, you'll never get anywhere... And there is always something to do in North Wales.

"If You Settle for Nothing Now..."

So off I Headed into The Mizzle.



The Plan was to tidy up my Marchlyn projects so that I can Start actually ascending some. They got a brief mention in NWB, and this has spurred me into action to get the two lines I've emotionally invested in done. Okay, it should be noted that I do bang on about projects, included these fairly publicly on this blog (and at work, the pub, bus queues etc.), But seeing it in printed on the page has got me jittery..

So back to slogging through the mizzle..

It stopped, which allowed me to admire the view, and play candy crush, which took my mind off the slogging. Usefully, my slight vulnerability to addictive behavior, seems only to apply to  boring things like rocks, comics and kids games, rather than heroin.

I even got a rainbow...

Once at appropriate Altitude, I was pleased to discover a new alternative approach to my bloc (always learning), and settled down to two hours of moving things from one place to another.

The Result!

The Patio is now higher more level, and well on its way to being wider too. I've also opened out the left side of  the boulder, which has presented exciting new opportunities. My main focus is now the sit start on Seamus (the vertical seam in the foreground). It will start off the flake in the steepness below. Its merely quit hard, whereas the true sit into the Tumbleweed stand is still feeling beyond feasibility. However, whilst lugging rocks on this trip I concocted a mishmash sequence based loosely on my original fantastical plan, with just enough bits of my cop out beta to market it to my cynical creaky self.

It may even work, but I need a pilgrimage to Feidr Fw to get a training montage on. Historically this is where I beat myself fit, as I've yet to keep myself off the ouchy stuff indoors enough to sustain a serious unbroken montage.

Meanwhile...  There's nothing to see here...

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Enjoy the Silence
27 September 2017, 11:56 am

Life can get too busy. I've come to treasure the small moments of calm, even better when they coincide with a lack of rain..

The morning mist gave way to warm autumn sun, a nod from the wife and I was released back up to Marchlyn. has become synonymous with this place for me. It was even a working title for The Big Project. However, I'm beginning to be worn down by that. If I get very strong, I can envisage myself making most of the individual moves, but linking them together seems another step up altogether. I also may have to admit my arms are too short, there is a big span I can make with my face pressed against the rock, but it would involve a massive throw to gain this.

Ouch.

Instead on dwelling on fading dreams, this visit was to try and nail the properly feasible projects. My opening up of the left side of the boulder, had exposed a whole new line, and made controlling the swing on the low start to Seamus less crucial. Upon arrival, I found the early morning fog, the blazing sun, and lack of breeze, had reduced the boulders friction somewhat. It was the worst conditions I had encountered up here to be honest, the usual spiky velcro friction reduced to the consistency of a drowned mouse. Chalk and lots of brushing removed some of the summers green, but the conditions made my warm ups proper battles. I'm looking forward to return here once the winter bites a bit more.

Still. I continued to enjoy the silence, a protracted and pant filling battle saw me topping out on the original Seamus in preparation for an attempt on the low start. However, it was all a bit touch and go, and when the mat was in position for the low start, the top was unprotected. That and I couldn't get off the deck.

Not wanting to leave empty handed I turned my attention to the unclimbed sitter to the left. This depended on two poor holds reached from a sitter. the first being a directional curved crimp held in a gaston, the second a hand position dependent pinch (fingers needing to be in a blind rail). unfortunately, the feet meant the slap into the pinch was a bit all or nothing.

was about 6B+/C

I really need some company up here next time, just someone not too chatty..

Source: Hosey B

[Hoseyb]

Thought as Nibile was updating, I should too. Been quiet though..

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2017/11/its-been-wet.html?m=0


http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2017/12/brewing-next-years-psyche-2017.html?m=0

[Hoseyb]

All quiet,  but trying to keep trucking..
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2018/02/its-been-cold.html?m=0

On the plus side I've a new rear wheel and brake for my scooter,  one less way to crater...

[Hoseyb]

 Next installments http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2018/02/baby-steps.html?m=0

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2018/03/quickish-hit.html?m=0

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2018/04/try-hards-and-pebble-helms.html?m=0

[Hoseyb]

Sorry it's been ignored.  Here's the next installments :
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2018/06/waiting-for-vizzini.html?m=0
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2018/07/before-word-there-was-tubes.html?m=0
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2018/08/dear-prudence.html?m=0
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2018/09/hot-to-bog-trot.html?m=0
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2018/10/find-rock-climb-rock.html?m=0
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2018/11/return-to-rockaway-beach.html?m=0
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2018/12/finishing-off-year.html?m=0
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/02/sloughing-off-winter-inertia.html?m=0

I'll try to be less tardy
 

[Hoseyb]

March 's post is here:
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/03/hail-to-shale.html?m=0

Most fun climbing I've had in ages, and a distinct lack of near death experiences

[Hoseyb]

Here's April:
http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/04/questing-time.html?m=0

[dunnyg]

The shaley ridge looks like good fun!

[Hoseyb]

A total scream, and with a bit of common sense,  pretty safe and non tidal.  Highly recommended.  Those without ice axes and warthogs could make do with a hammer and some threaded rod/ wingnut combo to tie off.

[Hoseyb]

May was really good at the start and then it rained.
http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/05/deep-recon-on-a487.html?m=0

[Hoseyb]

June was very pleasing
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/07/approaching-official-operating-speed.html?m=0

[Hoseyb]

Cornish interlude.  Some cool stuff to come but need the pics..
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/08/cornish-interlude.html?m=0

[Hoseyb]

The aforementioned cool stuff,  a Tosheroon update.
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/08/grinding-to-finish-line.html?m=0

[Hoseyb]

Back to normal foolishness
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/09/quixote-and-art-of-foolery.html?m=0

[Hoseyb]

First Marchlyn trip of the season,  and the promise of bigger numbers in the winter to come.
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/09/kicking-off-my-marchlyn-season.html?m=1

[Hoseyb]

Dad duties
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/10/were-going-on-bloc-hunt.html?m=1

[Hoseyb]

Inspired by stuff on here.
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/10/renaissance-of-hard-move.html?m=0

[Hoseyb]

Possibilities of new boulder fields opening up ( or not)
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/11/big-grin-day.html?m=0

[Hoseyb]

Things are hotting up in the wilderness
http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/12/the-flirting-is-in-footwork.html?m=0

[Hoseyb]

Merry Christmas and all that
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/12/building-psyche-for-next-decade.html?m=1