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Giveaway Project of the Month - November
25 November 2010, 2:47 pm

Bit of a funny one this month, as although I knew at some point I wanted to undergo something at this location, I'm not sure what..

Behold the Chasm of the Snowdon Lady Copper Mine!

This impressive hole is found above Ben's Bunkhouse near Nant Peris and has previously been explored by Mr Crook (and Prussiked out of again). I'm sure you have noted its lush colouration and aesthetic rock bridges, mainly a touch too damp for standard climbing, but an exemplary situation for an adventure!

I have theorised that a weighted line may secure protection from the architecture, providing for an unconventional ascent. Also, if this winter follows through on all its promises, a truly memorable winter "condition" line may be experienced.

Enjoy.



Source: Hosey B

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Brewing next years Psyche
16 December 2010, 12:16 pm

Despite Being properly excited over my new rather large family, the latter half of this year has been rubbish for my climbing motivation. This is not because of lack of time (see micro adventures) Rather, I've been plagued by injuries (wrist and sciatica) making me feel like an old man.

To combat this, I've decided to set myself a goal, announce it, and get training (more later)

This is Codename: ..

Suffice to say, Its going to be a rather hard offwidth to conquer. All the usual suspects know I've set it in my sights and, are graciously allowing me a good go (cheers G, Stevie and Tom).

So all I have to do is get strong, get it clean and grind to victory... Think Gin Palace on trad.

As to actually getting strong, I'm in the dilema of time management and having to isolate my busted bits.

There's also the fact that training hurts, at least for offwidths it does...

Currently thinking of serial micro sessions of beasting mini-supersets to failure; something like 3 push ups into 3 pull ups-in-pike and continue until puke.

Might take some refining..

If I settle for nothing now..

Source: Hosey B

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Merry Christmas
27 December 2010, 11:06 am

Hope one and all had a good xmas vibes. For me it was a chance to recharge and hang out with my family/ spoil the mini me's.

However...

Traning has yet to start. Clearing the 400m track at work has been dispiriting enough and tends to generally beast me rather than the specific torture required.

and then like sisyphus Ihave to watch it start to snow again..

Normal honing will resume in the new year...

Source: Hosey B

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Giveaway Project of the Month - December
27 December 2010, 11:13 am

As Usual, I giveaway a winter Project just as it all thaws..

Ho Hum.

Wall in the Hole quarry of the Glyn Rhonwy Quarries has some lovely damp and shadowy walls, a small llyn, and a water fall that feeds it. Get the hillside soggy enough prior to the next freeze, and ice entertainment will be yours. This pic was taken in its drier, wintery garb. enjoy

Source: Hosey B

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Pain passes
4 January 2011, 8:09 pm

Right.Refined the training regime:4 press ups then 2 pull-ups with legs raised (in pike)repeat until:

a) bang head against the floorb) fold up like a broken deck chairc) puked) any combination of above

Managed 5 sets today.

Going to be a long road...

Source: Hosey B

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Block around the clock
8 January 2011, 4:41 pm

Today was a good day.I finally reached ten sets in one go, This is to be my standard block.I don't quite know how I know this is my standard block, but it feels right. The last week has been painful, and mainly about reminding my body what exercise is, and what is expected of it. My only rest days are those when I don't come to work, as I use the fingerboards here. But Hols are due so I'd better think of something..Anyhoo I can now initiate phase 2!Tomorrow I will repeat the block against the clock, and then I need over the coming days to reduce that time by a third.Then I'll attempt two blocks a day.Once that works I'll try climbing something thrutchy...



Source: Hosey B

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Out of the Blocks and into the Hurdles
11 January 2011, 7:52 pm

Did my timed block today (did too much extra on Saturday, come Sunday, My tummy hurt..)

10 x (4 push ups + 2 pull ups in pike) = 2 minutes 54 seconds

Divide by 3 and times by 2 = 1 minute 56 seconds

This is my block goal

That is one set per 11 and a bit seconds

Might need to cross train...

Source: Hosey B

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Grandpa's Spade
19 January 2011, 1:37 pm

Today a fortuitious alignment of free time and baby sitting allowed me to perform a task whose performance had eluded me for a while. I headed forthwith to filmset and decended the scramble in...

This was a bit wierd, as I'd done this loads of times (that view is from the bottom btw), but today I was imagining the added weight of fatherhood, combined with the light frost would make it a great psychological challenge. However, I still appear to be the same man I once was. This was a great revelation to me, as most people bang on how your perception of risk and danger is altered by parenthood. The risk is the same folks, you just avoid splatting a little harder.  This was my Goal

I first brought Grandpa's spade down into filmset quarry in 2007 with the intention of reopening the tunnel between gideon and filmset, which involved shifting a few square meters of slate scree which had slipped over the filmset exit. I succeded on new years day 2008, and due to a fair amount of affection for the place, left the spade in place for further adventure. For one, there was still a bit of scree coming down the shute, and also there were these amazing boulders..

Obviously I never got to platform them out, and 3 years or so after arriving down the hole, I went to retrieve my keepsake of a rather special man (To which he would probably say "Silly Boy...")End of a chapter? maybe not, those boulders still look great and There's easy abseil / lowering access down Near Dark. Probably needs some corrogated iron tho'...  Here I go again!  Entering the tunnel 1/1/2008

The hole stil visible with a bit of digging and imagination 19/1/2011



Source: Hosey B

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Giveaway Project of the Month - January2011
19 January 2011, 2:29 pm

Bit of a special one this Month, Start of the Year and all that. Its a whole undeveloped area:

The Crystal Chasm

This is situated high in the eaves of Australia Quarry and is best accessed from the top levels of Braich, a couple above Far out level, at a rail track dump. Distilling thefinest attributes of the Lleyn, this compact mainly solid vast wall of quartzy stuff is about 40m long by 30m high, and would give many exciting adventures. As well as this the level incudes some very steep dolerite bouldering

This one extends far deeper also

Think moel y gest or Fairhead. a bit of groundwork and a pad stack.

Go get it



Source: Hosey B

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Fulfilling a long held ambition
25 January 2011, 10:37 am

Yesterday I took a trip to the Skull entrance to Twll mawr

Inside the skull

Artifacts from the Skull's last visitors

Source: Hosey B

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Beating the block
16 February 2011, 8:42 pm

40 press ups20 pull ups in pike1 minute 49 seconds

This all came a bit quick really. I guess I'm just hardening up to what my body remembers as liquid armbar fitness. Not sure how to carry this set of training on as I could try to double block, or 2 2min sets in under half an hour, but what do I actually need?

Example.I when climbing outside with ropes and everything. My first chance since the beginning of November last year, and we were on E2's down at Trwyn Maen Melyn (home of the justifiably lauded Bardsley Ripple)own on the Lleyn.The Gear is good, The crag is steep, and the holds are massive...However I still got pumped, scared silly and shot off in search of a rest position without pausing to safeguard any mishap.This was my first time in ten months climbing an E2, but head games aside- I need Stamina!

Therefore the plan is to keep blocking once a week to keep ticking over (maybe attempt a second block after ten  minutes or so) but turn my attention to stamina..

The Aching continues..

Source: Hosey B

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Giveaway project of the Month - February and March
9 March 2011, 12:54 pm

February got a bit mad, with training being replaced by hard graft at work. To reward your patience, here are a couple of Piccies I was keeping to myself. Craig y Llam is the home of 2 routes, a lot of unclimbed rock, and one previous Giveaway. the downside is that the unclimbed rock is probably best approched by boatand has a summer bird ban. It has therefore been ignored in rock rich North Wales. The upside is that its solid, futuristic and extensive.

The obvious chimney line drew me here - A tip off from Martin Crook

This wall is smooth, steep, and has a platform at low tide.  There are loads more features and lines, mainly one pitch of rock to one of scrambling, but high adventure none the less. enjoy



Source: Hosey B

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Exploring Happytude
29 March 2011, 7:11 pm

This weekend I had two contrasting sessions on the smaller stones. The weather was mint and my glorious better half sent me off to play (both times phoning to tell me I could extend my sessions) Sunday I shot off up the pass, to crawl back down until a parking spot appeared at the Grochan.I just missed the crew I was meeting up with and had to set my own agenda.Not being much of a cromlech boy and lacking the Energy (too many nights of baby noise) to troupe up to the wavelength relaxitude, I turned my attention to Ynys etws and the established "classic" Roof's of Boyson and Crook.Did Boyson with effort, and couldn't Suss the Crook.A bit deflated I realised I could no longer Be Bothered and headed down to Fishskin wall as it was officially too hard for me but didn't feel it (Unlike Crook's which should have gone but wouldn't budge). Felt too hard again, but only just, and went exploring again instead, Trainering up a delightful V0 Highball slab that should be a classic but will merely remain a pulse-racing memory (I forgot to do up my shoes... Nuff said)

Contrast this with Monday.A short cycle lead me to the Erratic (Logan had passed on the glory of first dibs, instead preferring  Something Special instead). I have been attempting its circumnavigation, something which has seemed desperate in the past.This being the first visit in more than a year I spent time re familiarising myself with its quirks, quartz being very quirky, and started re linking sections. The desperate sections started to feel simply hard, and I left having reduced it to two blocks (the climbing not the erratic).

So Sunday I was in catch up mode, turning an initial disappointment into something worthwhile. I was pitting myself against an established bar and coming short, and the best bit was being scared witless in the wilderness entering the unknown. Monday, I had no preconceived goals, just setting out for a Rubik's session, and every step was a success.

The lesson of the tale, seems to be; when your ego is fragile, new routing is always best!

Watch this space...

Source: Hosey B

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Giveaway Project of the Month - April
4 April 2011, 4:10 pm

Going against the spirit of April, Here is  a  something real for the wads out there:Follow the wall past Carreg Bengam Bach (wellies advisable)

Take a team and a pad stack

Source: Hosey B

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Somewhat Erratic
15 April 2011, 8:33 pm

I have achieved the circumnavigation of the quartz pebble of Braich y Foel. (SH569593)

Taking 5ish sessions, a lot of head scratching, swearing and resulting in the loss of a small chunk of my knee; "Somewhat Erratic" is best graded on the Haston scale as HVM. this is mainlt because I'm not sure if its V3 or V6. Probably somewhere in between. Sit start in the cave visible in the piccy (blurred, part of a twighlight boulder sesh) pull out left and keep goin round until above the cave, then saunter to the summit. The traverse follows a fairly obvious line, with hands remaining around head height (thats when standing on the ground clearly).

There are a couple of sitter straight ups; here modelled by Rory, currently projects.On the approach path is this esoteric gem, again modelled by Rory (used flash this time)

Whirligig is sort of V3/4 and Vsmall (3 sessions to eliminate dabs). However the bloc is so undercut, most types should be able to swing their pegs around without dabbing. Right to left, pull on by the flake, then lip traverse until you can pull out with the bore strike.

You may have noticed a dirth of posts about training, this is due to time and boredom. Training is impossible with out motivation. So I guess the next step is to clean the beast in me and see exactly how far I fall short, maybe that'll give me a kick up the arse.



Source: Hosey B

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Moose's Wall is Open for Business
29 April 2011, 1:34 pm

I've had a couple of evenings free over the last month, 40 minutes here, 90 minutes there, not enough to go mad or anything. I've used it to decipher G's instructions and get about cleaning the Fabled lost wall of Moose; First discovered by Mike Thomas, Matt Anthoine and other hero's.Last night was the last of these gardening missions and what a pleasant one it was too..

The wall is high, sphincter tighteningly so, but does have a cowards wall on the right. Very nice it is too, as long as you're au fait with old skool crozzly crimps and enjoy thin thin climbing, its mega absorbing.I must admit this wall was the last thing I turned too as I'm not that good at this sort of thing. I turned to the cracks which required nut keys, lapis brushes, secateurs and a penknife to return to their former 80's glory. The shorter (less high) crack was seiged first, and was quite friendly until the slightly font top out.

The Biggun was unjustifiable for a punter on his own with only one mat. Unfortunately it also has the pulling power of an ultraviolet exterminator, and I found myself wedging my toes far too high up whilst far too high up.Fortunately for a family man such as myself it all went swimmingly and I beached over the top.

So there it is, go to it. I've left a pirate's rope in place for swinging about and brushing holds, and three of the problems are chalked up. I haven't found out from Moose whether anything has names. The Biggun is no harder than V5, The Right Craic is no harder than V3, and the Coward's Wall is maybe V5 from a stand up, with a sitter feasible. Moose's main wall probably needs more brushing (and a bigger capacity for bravery) and there is a seam leading into the biggun from the right. More maybe unearthed but these are the good stuff.Enjoy

Source: Hosey B

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Erratic Quickie
7 May 2011, 6:17 pm

Popped up to the quartz block after work for a bit of shower dodging. Managed the SDS on the right arete. Ghostpoet is about V5 and starts L hand sidepull R hand mono.

I spent the rest of my time getting very excited about the rampline project, and even got off the ground before a rainbow stopped play.

watch this space.

Source: Hosey B

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Another Erratic Quickie
8 May 2011, 4:55 pm

the Dry spell between 3 and 4 today was utilies and the Rampline was Sent!

"The Science of the Sword" is somewhere between V5-7 and starts sds on the left on two paralell slanty slopey crimps (10 past 8 O'clock) and follows the swirl through the bulge to the top.

Also bagged the direct sds line up the middle. "Lessons from a Rainstorm" is pretty dynamic and possibly V4

Grading is a bit confusing at the mo'

Source: Hosey B

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Giveaway Project of the Month - May
14 May 2011, 8:08 pm



This is Calum on Rhinoplasty on Suncharm ledge, Its his boulder problem,  but my suggested name. This is because A) it climbs the 'nose' of the arete, and B) he called his last problem sunshine swing..

We couldn't touch the true arete, that is the right hand side, as both the left hand side version (the aforementioned swing) and the cheval, depend on a big jug on the left hand side (in Calum's left hand in the pic). This is out of reach on the right hand side.

Tackling the pure arete and slab on the right is going to be hard, awesome and very thin, like Reed Richards on maximum stretch.

Go to it, there's no seepage and it dries lightening fast, just don't expect it to be easier than V6....

Oh, yes we may have got some of the other grades wrong there,  as on last visit I generally couldn't get off the ground (!)

Source: Hosey B

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Cylch Session
16 May 2011, 1:10 pm

Got Out for the first time During Logans pre-school class. This miracle of community services means that Monday to Thursday between the hours of 12 and 1430 Logan is entertained and the Twins are asleep. Sam and I can "Do our thing". This meant that Sam did her exercise DVD and I went to Moose's Wall. The top out was promisingly dry, but the lower wall was distinctly Oozy.

Not wanting to waste time, I high tailed it to Clegir as it was in the breeze, and more importantly had phone reception and was near the car in case of Nappy Duties for Logan.

I hung out at the Bunker, which I haven't been to since here.

Since all that Clegir has got quite popular with pebble seekers and these lines have kind of got neglected. Shame really as Huggy Bear and The Wedge gave me a really good session. Even a couple of wet squalls didn't affect it as they were steep enough and sheltered. The Breeze even maintained dryness on the top out slabs and I bagged some thing New. Hug Avoidance starts as for Huggy Bear but after the first throw utilises a toe hook to gain crimps on the slab and rock out right.

So For Harassed Dad's with a spare hour The Bunkers a hit with three worthwhile puzzles to ponder and pull on.

Happy Days

Source: Hosey B

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Reality Check
20 May 2011, 11:41 am

Well its been a year since developing my little bits of Clegir. Thursday Provided an opportunity to have a boulder and after a quick Moose Session, I ambled up to The Crack House.

After my Bunker session I was keen to try the test peices of the venue; namely Shed party, the Rake, Toe Bar and Receding Hairline. I knew a lot had changed for me with the arrival of the twins, dodgy wrists and general lack of excercise, and although I'd trained a bit and regained some fitness, I was keen for a comparision. Also I'm currently questioning my ability to grade, even back then, and this meant I was fairly curious how they'd feel.

First up was Shed Party which I'd given V4. Initial impressions was I was certainly bolder before the twins, as the landing was definitely 2 mats and a spotter territory. Not a mortality thing I think, just not wanting to injure myself and therefore missing the few opportunities I do get to climb (and affect my ability to earn..)

Got it done and I think V4 is about right, compared to say Heelhook traverse at the cromlech.

Next up The Rake, again V3 was about right, Its only one move, but a big one.

Tried Receding Hairline next. I'd given it V4/5 and to be honest thats way off. In 4-5 goes I only managed to get 2-3 moves in, and its pretty sustained. Again one mat wasn't enough as it covers some ground laterally. The Issue was my finger strength as I couldn't hold the Hairline seam. If WireBrush crack is a good V5 and the Edge Problem is currently thought V6, Its certainly closer to Edge Problem hardeness.

Toe Bar was a non Starter as I couldn't Pull on. I gave it V4 which is a joke. the hardest move is the initial pull which is mainly driven by the ankles by a double heel-toe. I'd obviously developed this strength lots with my invert bouldering at Feidr Fw, and so with this esoteric skill set it felt easy and therefore V4. I eventually conceeded to a standing start which i got 2nd time.

The Plan is to work both RH and Toebar and its alternate finishes. This will hopefully give some enjoyment as well as buff me up again..

Source: Hosey B

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Another Crack..
25 May 2011, 11:01 am

Another trip to the crack house and Receding hair line went down, see here in all its chalked up glory:

(note the clash stunt pad half over the mat and slope, 2 normal mats abutted should be fine..)

A better foot sequence and the belief my fingers were stronger seemed to do the trick. Start off the undercut inside Barred to the Bone and the flatty seen on the arete and follow the seam to glory. You dont use the foot block or cam the crack, but it feels a pretty natural, non eliminaty problem. V5/6 maybe, no Idea..

On to Toe bar, and got offthe ground a couple of times, but its still hard from here. I started thinking, esoteric technique or not, this was still quite hard, then Crack!

Mid Allez, my foot made the same noise my wrist did when I trashed it on a sloper, basically it gave in and noisily let go of its own accord, the Wuss!

Bit sore today but seems to still do what I want it to, might leave Toe Bar tho' as I can't be bothered to enter a specific training bout.

Should be climbing with a rope at the weekend! happy joy joy

Source: Hosey B

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Getting Beasted
14 June 2011, 12:09 pm

Well its been an eventful few weeks, I've tied on and been climbing in the real world (Wolf the wad instigated a trip to Llandulas, I wasn't totally weak either...) and my ankle is a bit weak on high stepping foot crimps...

The big news is I was able to clean this years new route project at the weekend

Codename:the Beast in me

Well it was an after work jobby, and with one thing or another I didn't yomp to position until 8.30, This provided me with certain information:

-Walking uphill for protracted periods with heavy bags is quite tiring

-Kiddie tunes buzzing round your head may be debilitating but at least they help you keep pace.

This being a responsible Daddy adventure, the belay involved 4 rope protectors and I was abbing with a shunt line. Very dope on a rope.

The top 5m of the Beast is a little bit scary with a couple of metres of runout, and a smattering of rp's:

THe brownish ledge you can see is the rest before this and the site of the last good cams. You can just about work out the v groove snaking away below this into the dark..

Those familiar with the more exciting parts of the quarries will recognise the fluffy green powder on the walls pre brushing..

This tends to form in the slate crevases and dark dry corners, and indicates the groove stays pretty dry which is good news on the conditions / massive freeze fracture catastrophe front..

Looking down through the main roof:

All I need now is a few more of these:

Micro Cams! or sliders, or any active protection for a parallel slot averaging 7-10mm.

Once I've enough pro, off I'll go!

Watch this space..

(got home at 1am)

Source: Hosey B

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Giveaway Project of the Month - June
17 June 2011, 3:20 pm

This is now getting a bit tricky really..

I'm now getting to get out a bit which means I'm getting keen to do new stuff again. I've rationed myself to new boulders, and one route a year to prevent obsession getting in the way of family life (the Beast is already causing some serious daydreaming..)

All hunky dory, but I'm not quite getting out enough to refill the reservoir of unclimbed rocks in my head. This means I'm now getting down to stuff I've a real attachment to.

No Worries, once the Slate guide is out of my hair, I can start drawing people's attention to a couple of sweet blank spaces, and maybe I'll get out more...

This month there's a small but perfectly formed blank space, on a little ledge above Prometheus Unbound in Lost world:

The ledge is in the upper right corner, and is reached from the level you must now attain to drop down to the ladders to Kyber pass (since the railway got a little too exciting).

At its end is a lovely steep and economically featured wall with a glaciated top out, keeping it exciting to the end. Would suit bolts, and has a touch of seepage, but very pretty none the less.

Enjoy



Source: Hosey B

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An Initial Tickle
20 June 2011, 10:12 am

Had my first foray on the Beast last night. My good friend the esteemed Mr Walters QC (also known as Matt) was visiting after a couple of years in a bunker in Afghanistan drinking Gin. So he was quite up for a bit of a scramble and general mickey taking. He also took a picture or two, which may appear here.

My initial action was to try and weight a Camalot 5 which I had brought along to test. Good News, it pulled straight out so I don't need to waste energy lugging those things back up...

Next was an actual attempt, this provided loads of useful information.

-Rock'n Rollers are old skool cool, but a bugger to get out after you fall on them.

-Its safe if I've enough Diddy cams.

-If I want to get past the 3m mark I have to get a lot stronger...

Entering the jaws is ok, but to succeed I have to then face the other way. It is here, at the start, where there is at least one single real hold (a wide finger-and-thumb-tip pinch) that appears to be the only place to do it.

So this brings me to

-I don't need to revisit until I'm a lot stronger.

There. All pretty positive really, I'll test my core and upper strength soon to see if I can improve significantly there, and other than that Its just getting on some classics and classic offwidths and getting some battle strength up.

all good

Source: Hosey B