[comPiler]

The Beast Is Caged..
16 November 2012, 9:21 pm

On an exceptionally sunny day, I found myself set free by my better half, plied with big drills and lashings of static rope. Thus equipped I was off to the quarries. Arriving at Bus Stop I was greeted by Carlos himself, off for a spot of slacklining. Spurred on by this fortuitious meeting, we walked in together, him under a load of wide tape and rigging ropes, myself under about 25kg of spaff.Unfortunately, I'd forgotten my hammer..Fortunately, I was only 100 yards from the car when I realised this, and as I got back to vehicle, Ian Lloyd Jones appeared and presented me with one. The Slateheads were smiling down....As was the sun, water, sweating and panting breaks were required, but I eventually staggered to the weighing hut at the top of the yellow wall steps. It was here I promptly got lost and staggered up and down the scree like a numpty, trying to find the Razor's notch. This col is one I frequented and owned godamit, back in my freer days, a calling point on many of my wanderings. However, I turned up eventually and sought my solution to getting all the gear to the Twll Mawr Summit. After tossing Ian's hammer repeatedly into the void (tied to the static) I bit the bullet, paid out lots of slack and lashed myself to the rigging. Its a fairly simple solo to the summit, But negotiating it with a rope, which in turn needs to run free enough to allow me to get to the hauling point meant some thoughtful moments.Still I got to my sunbed eventually....

The picture shows all the gear I pack horsed up:36v drill + 2 batteries40 bolts100 of Static RopeLunch and waterassorted climbing and bolting spaff.

The view down the beast.As usual things didn't go to plan, the hollow bit took a hammering, but wouldn't fall off, but merely wobbled. I was concious that the bolting should prevent the rope running over the sharp fins on the upper section, or bringing the rope / protection in the firing line if it did shed. The solution was one bolt in the closed out upper section, keeping it bold but safe. The upper groove remained Cam #2 protected, keeping the rope away from danger, but you never get far above them, before getting to the bolt.

The Lower section is bolted well out the way, and is pretty overhanging anyway (the rope is hanging plumb vertical) and the belayer is in a tunnel.

Everybody safe.

That done, I proceeded to the main event. Rebolting Journey to the centre of the earth. a F6a+/E1 that gets three stars and ends 30m up an 80m wall (hence 100m of static).



As you can see the daylight was beginning to go at this point. With the old rusty bolts being imperial and slightly under drilled, I soon abandoned thoughts of removal, and pushed on. 7 bolts in 30m looks pretty spacey, but at least they're good ones now. At the bottom I started to prepare to rebolt Full metal jack off. Basically I dumped all the kit below it and tied it to the bottom of the rope.

Up I  Shunted until a pendulum into the belay was possible without slicing the line. It was proper dark now. I abandoned optimism, replaced the belay, and fixed a handline to the lost world ladders. Once I'd stashed the gear on the ladders, I set about shunting back up, stripping the rebelays and getting back to my head torch.

Proper Dark, Proper tired. I stacked the rope back in the bag and packed everything I could see. Rebolting Full metal and the porphory chair will have to wait until I get another bolting window (or someone else is inspired). They can be done with a less bulky kit list however, as both belays are accessible off the Mordor ring path. I'll probably put in a belay for the middle earth ladder too, so the nervous can rope out to escape the pit.

So the Beast is now ready for me, Caged but not fully tamed (the hollow jaws..) a sport grade or a sporting tradish? My heart tells me it'll be HVM  (f7ish)

Watch this Space



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

A Giveaway Index
27 November 2012, 4:19 pm

Now this blog has been running for a while, I'm beginning to lose track of which projects are out there in the public domain of what. To help me avoid replication, and you find the project of your dreams, I've compiled this list:

2009

July

Super Prow of Cwm Ffynnon

highball

August

Craig y Llam

trad crack

September

Mount Doom

sport project, turned out too loose (see May & June 2010)

October

Porthmissen bridge

cornish adventure trad

November

mynydd drws y coed

virgin crag

December

quarry icefall

2010

January & February

Haldrine Cove

cornish trad

March

dyffryn mymbyr

boulder

April

Glyn Rhonwy

virgin slate pit

May & June

mount doom

repeated offering of sport projects, left hand one is best offering

July

Benllech

offwidth bouldering

August

Clegir bouldering

September

Llanberis Pass

trad crack

October

Twll Mawr arete

became part of an Ian Lloyd Jones Sport route

November

Snowdon Lady Copper Mine

adventure in trad or Ice

December

Glynn Rhonwy

Ice Fall

2011

January

Crystal Chasm

virgin quarry level, boulder and adventure

February & March

Craig y llam

offwidth trad

April

Nantmor

Virgin boulders

May

Suncharm ledge

Dolerite bouldering

June

Lost world

sport project

July

Mancer quarry

adventure trad offwidth

August

Twll Mawr

Adventure trad

September

Clegir

Virgin boulder cluster

October

Vilca bamba

Through trip

November

Upper dinorwig arete

adventure trad/ sport project

December

Fachwen Arete

sport project

2012

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November



Source: Hosey B

[Gritlad]

RE Aprils nantmore boulder, just a word of warning I went and checked them out in summer, stumbling through rocks and waist high ferns and bog to find them abit poor.... Not meant to be knocking hosey here, his blog and taste in rock is great without doubt. But the boulders are made of a quartzy rock type and are quite flakey and loose with no real line on them. Kind of gogarth Down scaled without the great lines.
Would of course love to be proved wrong though!

[Hoseyb]

Hi Gritlad

Sorry you didn't find the quality you were searching for. My memory included risking water levels over the wellies, but I seem to recall the cluster in question being more like the bengham bach rock, and pretty tall. A lot of also rans in nantmor tho' and its a bit of a maze so not every quest gets a prize...

ps
They are, by nature, giveaways....

[Gritlad]

Yeah there are some nice blocks in the area for sure. Assuming you know about the boulder field on the other side of the plantation?

[comPiler]

Old Life, New Life
12 December 2012, 7:19 am

I read recently that a friend and fellow adventurer, Rob Greenwood was hanging up his axes, at least temporarily, for adventures on safer shores. This led me to contemplate the transition my life has taken since marriage, and the arrival of Logan, Ethan and Dylan. I recently after my Thursday experience have also forsworn the wilder shores, and I'm getting my head around what exactly that means. I've certainly changed as a person, Its not just the responsibility of fatherhood, maybe I've less to prove to myself, and others, Maybe I've learnt enough from death choss now..

I was Trawling the archives and found this essay I knocked out in the early days. I post it here in trepidation, but as awkward as it reads, it does give an interesting, if cloudy and warped, snapshot into my mindset back then.

"Death Dance"

"Keep it loose, and if you can't keep it loose, keep it stupid..." parting words upon leaving the safe cyber shores of rocktalk and moving all my possessions to the powerfully real surrounds of Llanberis.. Having managed to get into my new abode, despite having to fish the keys from the letterbox of an absent mate (long story) I soon felt totally out of my depth. Here was I, a low to mid grade adventure climber, attempting to join in with one of the most important climbing communities in the country. With my few firm friends in Llanber' on holiday or keeping a low profile, I went through the motions, fixing up the house and wondering why I'm here.Lounging lethargically round the house, watching the drizzle slide down the windows, I thought about going home.Bollocks to that. I checked the weather forecast and this afternoon was going to be the only dry weather in ages. I packed a drink and boots and chalk bag and set off for the lake. My goal was upper Dinorwic, with only one Crook route up there, there must be some scope, and the walk will stop me feeling lazy. The Oil drum glacier was interesting, and I could easily imagine getting buried up there. Only Katie and Rob saw me go, I didn't tell them my plans, too easy to be dissuaded. No help there then.Upper Australia, Dinorwic, whatever you call it is huge. And scary, don't forget scary. Can I forget?Red slate that's all blocky and slopey, the purple havens and grey evilness that gives way to sheets like punk wood and shivering bands of mud and shale. Quartz filled dolerite that crumbles like salt and life saving sheets of brown sand paper. Memories of the place come unbidden like the passage of tunnels on an intercity train journey.It would be too simplistic to say I was cocky. I knew that if I set out trying to prove something then I would die. However, I was feeling a spare part, unsure whether I had a right to be there in the first place. I needed an enema for the soul.Suited and booted I immediately regretted not bringing a helmet, the occasional gust of wind bringing down tiny flakes like autumn leaves. Maybe if I had brought a helmet I wouldn't have come, too thought provoking a hell-met is. I attacked the most beautiful line, and retreated in fear. I found a solid arête and got fifteen feet up before pulling a huge block off that tried to propel me to the deck. I turned instead to an easy gully. My first encounter with the bands of vertical shale that insinuate themselves through the cliff, brought only anger. Especially as there was a possible, if sustained, crack above me that I would have relished if I had some gear, a rope and a partner. Too much uncertainty, but I couldn't turn back so early. Once I'd crossed it, I couldn't turn back. Grovelling, digging and knitting the solid patches together I was spat out onto the terrace. I could walk off here. Leaving what? a shitty shaley loose pitch going nowhere of merit? Arrogance forced me to seek a second pitch, one that flowed from the first.A ledge system spotted from the ground gave hope, and I emerged shaken onto a platform containing a simple VS layback that had held so much promise from below. It ran with water and was capped by a loose wig of death blocks. Arse. A brief consultation with my maker left me a little calmer and I saw a series of ledges leading round the left arête of this niche. they were coated with brown crystals that rivalled grit in friction. Yummy. Unfortunately, as I strode forth, it became apparent that all I touched started to move. "Seek the easy path" became my mantra and I oscillated between oases of brown sandpaper, my fear rising like vomit. The doors had closed, the heavens were like brass; silent. Twenty minutes, half an hour must have elapsed in this tortured groove, pinned between a rotting miner's hut and my mortality. I gave up. I headed back knowing how dangerous retreat was on terrain such as this. You see when you go up, your hands pioneer the path, sensitively selecting the good nuts from the bad. My feet are pretty crap at this. Somehow, my path down differed from my path up, probably due to my paranoia over loose footholds. My fingers sank behind a solid flake. The doors opened again and choirs of angels sung a tentative chorus. One jug and some solid footholds do not equal an end to trouble. I commit and am immediately taken back to long repressed memories of past epics. A fragile rock over into the unknown, with death patrolling the depths below like a restless shark. Time shuffled its feet and so did I.Romanticising aside, I made it to the next terrace. Took off my boots and prepared to bugger off. I was stopped by the notion that I was still alive, and before me lay a beautiful and most importantly safe looking corner. Short and perfectly formed, it succumbed to a struggle and I was back in the race. The worst was over. Steadily following the easiest path in the straightest line, two more interesting and non death-like pitches were dispatched. It was the end of festivities. A short scramble up moss and scree led to the final terrace, a walk to safety, and an ogle at Crook's Big Thursday. Smashing.

Maybe there's a life for me here after all. Better find a climb partner effing quick though. Life's too precious.

Why I am here again? Alone in the shattered heart of Dinorwic. I'm booted and suiting at the bottom of a chaotic fissure gaping like a festering wound. This is actually serious. a grade I haven't attempted on a real and proven route. Its not my imagination, its someone else's. I hope they aren't ill humoured. A helmet this time, There's no fooling myself of this crucibles potential. Peace sits uneasily on my heart while my head cycles through what little beta I scraped. A solo to prevent a seconds death. First pitch hard to reverse. Don't do in an earthquake. Check. Why am I here? The threshing floor awaits, I'm off to meet myself.

Section one twists up like a Crag Lough corner. A niche is entered via a soft fist jam. looseness abounds but in a unthreatening curious way. I'm moving through but not part of it all. Until a big lump come off in my hand that is. Shit. Still I was in balance and, therefore not dead. I lob it into the abyss, cursing as I'm forced to digest the reality of the depths. All the effing way to the bottom. Eff. Must remember not to fall off, that's all. Mantling out to the arete I find the move Ray talked about; reversible but not in a pretty way. Never mind, I'll walk off the easy way. Now Ray said the first pitch was the hard one. The gorge rises out of the rubble like a stage set from star trek meets Bram Stoker. Its a lot wider than I thought, and carpeted with shit and surfboards. I pause to take in the scenery, you must pop up for the view of the rest of Australia, its quite a pleasant perspective. I stick to the walls of the gorge, at least once I confirm the status of the flooring. The dolerite makes it feel unlike any of the other experiences I've had out here. as does the thick coat of mud everything has. More like Cheddar than North Wales. The gorge ends. A chimney huh? More like a huge boulder choke that caps the gorge with choss and sludge. No bloody roof in the description! Here I face the crucible. Here I see myself clearly. here I hope the obviously loose rock will gain gravity and immobility, bolt themselves down. I clean the sludge off the few holds, a rock comes away and hits me in the bollocks. pulling on shite I insinuate myself onto the horizontal. Weirdness, all is stupidity. Fun though, and it feeds my head.

The smell from smashing slate is like standing too close to fireworks. a smell of danger, a warning of the place you have brought yourself into. It screams "Get out! Mine!" There are treasures in the darkness that it protects. but they are slid between the borders of life and death. I doubt I will ever see them, not for long anyway. When a Jewish priest entered the holy of holies, the other of otherness, the sacred heart of the temple, the other priests tied a rope to his leg, so that if he was overcome by the power of God and died, they could drag him out without endangering themselves. I'm getting worried, I'm beginning to get excited by slate's vaporisation. Its real, a sentry to a more real place.

I'm not afraid of death, but I don't want to die, please believe that. I've made peace with my maker and there is much to be done. But I believe in an otherness; a yearning for a different life. I feel a need to place my self in a crucible of my own making, parameters of my choosing rather than the fashions of the day. I yearn for a place for chivalry within climbing. Indeed it may be its last refuge in this fearful, controlled and contrived "safe" society. The heroes are stretched thin as paper and extrapolated far from their templates and their root form. A knight is known by their deeds. this is not their works, their calculated actions, but the spontaneous actions driven by who they are and who they are made to be. Climbing for yourself, striving towards a point where this is a soul drive, just for you, and maybe your climbing partner, but no one else. That should be our goal. The arena of testing is dispassionate and the earth does not feel our passing. It is on the surface that life passes; like condensation on a mirror. There are, however, guides to the threshing floor. I listen for the quiet voice that made me, and the smell of combat.

Having said the crucible of Dinorwic is a cold and impartial to our passing, it seems strange to now turn to the moods of the quarries. During a buzzing, crackling summer, with ropes coiled like snakes in the grass, all may be good in the world. Meanwhile, out in the badlands under leeched grey skies, with shattered battlements tipping their hand, Death might be your belayer. A single location may charge through the full spectrum of emotion like a bull in a psyche ward. It is in truth a lot like the dark side's dwelling place on Dagobar, found in “The Empire Strikes Back”. Here is an arena where spirits may dwell, and all that is with you is just what you have taken in your self, or have attracted to yourself. Terry Pratchett’s Discworld has the dungeon dimensions which strive to pierce through reality into the world, in places where the boundary between the two realm’s are stretched thin. Maybe the quarries are a nexus in a similar vein. No matter.

Adorning the sterile substrate of slate like a rainbow on a soap bubble, life clings and shadows roam; projected, trespassing, or otherwise. These stirrings impinge on us in differing ways. While below the surface dirt and rock and worms and water dwell, the surface is a slick of grass and heather and gorse and goats. This in turn is punctured by monoliths of man's failings, hopes and natures solutions. These connect with us through our wiring and baggage. They trigger the positive and the negative, the constructive and the destructive within us. Whether we are conscious of this or not is depends on our tuning. When in a group we are insulated by the projections from our comrades. Like a lake in the rain; patterns are dispersed to an even murmur. When numbers are reduced the ripples are more discernible. And alone there is just you and the residents; bouncing off the quarry walls, oinking crows, wailing goats and the bowels of the hill humming a melody that's manmade. There is something reassuring about the generator hum. It tells you that you are not alone, Sometimes a whisper sometimes a roar. Where is doesn't tread, these seem to be the dark places. Wind fights generator. Man against anti-man. For wind, and the rain for that matter, can tip you off the threshing floor into the machinery. The dark places in the quarries are found where the anti-man elements gain a stronghold. Twilight seems reinforce this, long regarded as a time where worlds meet, maybe its merely the leaving of the light, taking away a point of security. Try to take the light with you, that's what I reckon.

What is anti man? Things that are destructive and negative. A mild breeze stimulates the upturned cheek as you contemplate your next rockover, A sudden gust takes you off and down the hole. I feel that all aspects of life must be split to one camp or the other to a certain degree, if something is truly neutral then it is of no use and therefore a hindrance. Characteristics and quirks can be expressed for good or evil also. Nothing is irredeemable, it is how it is applied; anger or passion, fussing or caring, moody or contemplative.All that is up there is what you take with you, fed by what is for us, and what is against. This is my experience of the quarries.

There you go. I'm not sure I'm that person any more, but I can just about trace the journey.



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

More from the Archives
12 December 2012, 8:48 pm

Back around the time I wrote Death dance, I was also hanging around a lot with John Redhead, He's one of my most colourful friends and always the trickster, seeking  and prodding peoples buttons. At this time  he was just finishing his poem/sound sculpture Soft Explosive, Hard Embrace. and was putting together some film to promote it with. John has a history of putting on lavish cinematic epics, and then loosing them, for them never again to see the light of day. His north stack clowning on the Cad only remains as a few photographs for instance (see the Chris Dale section in the new slate guide). Apparently his new book is very good.

John has allowed me to put up my section from the promo film. In this bit I solo Opening Gambit in Twll Mawr, enthuse a bit a la Death Dance, and appear young and slightly touched in the head.

The banana flake parted company a few months later.

I wish I still had those trousers.



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Giveaway Project of the Month -January
5 January 2013, 10:57 pm

The Friday before Christmas saw me with a small window of opportunity, a few hours to tramp in the quarries with my camera, and enjoy revisiting some old haunts. The fact that the cloud base was barely above Vivian did little to staunch my enthusiasm, and I soon found myself well wrapped up and negotiating the new gates up lon garret. I swear one day those wall will bury someone's car...

Its changed very little since my previous ramblings along the levels, a few more bolts and a bit more wall on the floor, the tunnel through to Gorbals seemed a bit easier to negotiate, and the Oil drum glacier started off being fairly benevolent.. Until it tried to eat me. Roll with the boulder, support it and slow it, discourage others from following. The old routine and only a grazed shin. I swear it never used to happen, but I dimly remember always losing some blood every quarry adventure () Still the glacier was hauntingly beautiful in the mist.

A wade across the tepui landscape of the salt pans was followed by one of Australia's fancy tricks; a 30 second cloud clearance. The fog basically buggers off out the bowl causing you to fumble for your camera, only to flood back in again.. See. Anyway, I got some photo's of this months giveaway, somewhat mist shrouded, but enough to peek interest. a viable line for a sport route, straight up a steep wall, with maybe some recourse to the arête (your call).



The ladder down to Vilcapampa is now leaning about 3-4ft further to the side from when I ascended it, and no longer on anything even vaguely anchoring. So I would definitely avoid it now, Instead use the crevasse wall approach (another well known wall of potential).

Enjoy

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Giveaway Project of the Month - Feburary
1 March 2013, 9:29 pm

well.. Sort of, (a Day Late)

Scrag End. The Lost levels of Rainbow, snipped off below Golgotha. Best accessed by entering Twll Mawr and foraging around the base of Running Scared for the boulder squeeze into the rear entrance of Scrag End, This Was Joe Browns original passage into Twll Mawr on his foraging, before bits dropped off.

All These levels are unclimbed (or unclaimed) and this particular wall seems to lack seepage, gets the sun, has an open aspect and a view. What it doesn't yet have is bolts.

Enjoy

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

giveaway update
12 March 2013, 3:04 pm

Just looked out the window, and it seems the current cold conditions has meant that this Ice Fall has formed.

Not sure how thick it is but Its probably worth a punt

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Fight the Apathy
15 March 2013, 11:55 am

No Finger Board? Rented House?Old rope and roof joists mean total upper body and core punishment can be yours!

A plus is it can be hidden away from the kids.



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

The Joys of Getting Beaten up
31 March 2013, 9:27 pm

Yesterday was My first day out climbing since, I think, November. This has been due to bad things such as injury, weather and illness in the family, and the good things that having a family of three wild boys brings.

By 1130 I was stepping out the car, strapping on the gaitors and a pad stack and stomping up to Dyffryn Mymbyr. The goal was this, which in my mind has become Big Bad Bari. The snow was very patchy and generally avoided, but those bits I had to tussle with were of unpredictable depth and firmness. All good adventure. I stopped at the Mighty 'Tashe to warm up. This was lovely and warm in the sun and apart from a drippy philtrum was bone dry.

However, its extreme slopeyness meant it wasn't that great for a warm up. maybe back when I was a feidr fw devotee I could have lapped a few things. But I'm soft. Like Feta. Shame too as the snow had made a great platform under the crux section of the traverse.

I repacked everything and slogged up the snow encrusted heather to the main event. Good news; it was dry and snow free, and all it took was a little light brushing to return it to condition.

With my Borrowed pad, I had enough encouragement to give it a proper try. The first tussle commenced, or rather would have commenced if I could have seated the initial stack properly. Soft hands along with a soft body, not enough fighting, too much playing. A tighter fist and an enquiring eye, lock thumb against extensors and rotate. Feet are up and once more.

Thrust legs deep, crunch the flabby core into action, hands grapple and crush untempered holds, but the memory of ability kicks my abbs back into gear and hands back into action. Lungs and Lactic, however, drop me to the pads.

Promising, I pant for a while and flex wooden digits, water and cake imbibed I bury my limbs into the duvet jacket. .

Round two. Stack and kick, keep the stack and pike thrust deep. Dangle and reset, clamp, thrust, shuffle, release, flick. I've got the pinch on the Chock.

Nice moment, pause, hooray..(small h)

Time reconvenes. My gut is taking a punching, lead legs swing and stab, a constricted upper cut gains a pinky bar. crap. Flailing fists gain flared pinky first cup jams. Rubbish, stab, crunch, swipe..

Splat.

Well that was interesting, the pinky bar was just an inch below a proper pinky jam, The game changer was just out of reach that attempt. I wait, raw hands throbbing under the duvet. Extend, retract, repeat. Flush out the lactic and lymph, slow the breathing.

Round three. Couldn't lift my legs in.

Knock out.

Bruised and Battered, I grinned my way back down the slope, wading the drifts and skidding over the weepy bogs, my head now throbbing with all familiar exertion, (no puking this trip). Deep breaths over the pass and off to bed, an hour sleep.

Next time I hope to catch Bari. a bit more sleep beforehand, a lack of lurgy, and maybe some more effective fitness and I'll flipping 'ave 'im.

I've realised looking back on past endeavours how much of an effective training ground Feidr Fw was, I was nursing pulley injuries at the time and was seeking jamming as a distraction, so nearly all    the climbing I was doing was out here rather than indoors. I spent a lot of time up on the hillside, So much that a friend rang my missus worried that I'd disappeared  as every time he drove to work at the Brennin, my car was in the same place. A lot of effort, but my futile return trips to try problems I did at the time has shown it certainly toughened me up, like its Vedauwoo namesake, I think I'll be making more regular trips there now, to see if it will redo its magic.

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Big Bad Bari Lives & Giveaway Project of The Month - April
27 April 2013, 7:39 pm



Here he is. One session cleaning, one flabby session working and Today...

I managed to get up it. It seems that 4 consecutive days route setting at the Beacon, and a minor nod to improving my flexibility, is enough to make the difference. I warmed up on the top out, then linked from the chockstone into this. Then it was time to ride the Rig...

Big Bad Bari Font 6C+ishStart from a hand fist stack at the obvious constriction at the back of the crack, invert and shuffle to the chockstone, swing round on undercut jams and yard up to the top.

The Boulder itself is also Big, and home to Bari. This Months giveaway is the compression, slopey slappy thing that rears out from below Bari. It will be hard. It should also be very good. Get it touch for details.

Enjoy



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

More Mymbyr Info
30 April 2013, 6:46 pm

Well here is the missing piece of the puzzle, the rest of the locations for the Mymbyr bouldering I know of.This Link has your starters and basic approach, The Mighty 'Tashe is to the left of the stream and visible below the highball slab (this looked about F6a+ last visit but I've yet to fully commit). To the left of this is the boulders in the photo's above:A) The sentinel boulder, start of the upper boulder field and just in front of Man Like Me.B) Is Big Bad Bari at the top of the boulder fieldC) The Quack Crack boulder, 30m further on from the Mighty 'Tashe.

Let me know what you think.

Enjoy



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Quack Crack Bloc
3 May 2013, 6:43 pm



Here is the Quack Crack bloc:The central crack is Quack Crack F6B+, which goes from a sitter. The overhanging nature of this boulder, coupled with its annoying dearth of foot holds make most of the sitter's very hard indeed. I was up here again yesterday playing on a few problems and managed only one other sitter; Fat Duck Arête F6B on the left hand side starting off a pinch on the arête and a side pull for the right hand. Good boppy fun. I also did a stand start on the shield immediately left off opposing arête's. I played on both finishes (the righthand exit is best) and almost linked it from a sitter similar to fat duck arête, although a fist jam replaced the pinch. I was thinking, although fun, my jumpy moves into the standing start position was a bit eliminate, as you could just slope up the right arête. However, looking back at the pic's I think a toe hook could make going into the standing start position the more sensible method.

A couple of stander's on the left hand side; Ball's Groove F6A+ takes the obvious clean hanging groove, and starts with hands on the left arête. The Chalked crimps to the right of the groove are the start of a Fast Cars type thing - Love Battery F6C finishes out right on the nose. Linking into this from the start of Quack Crack would be the send of the Bloc.

I'm quite keen to return with a wad to tidy up some of these bits, let me know if you're up for it.

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Brewing up!
20 May 2013, 8:17 pm

More Psyche!

Today was a play day for me. Dropped Logan in school then high tailed it to Lost World to give the Beast a spring clean. The winter had done its work and loosened the wobbly bits..

All it took was a bit of work with my precision cleaning tool (Ice Axe)...



An off she peeled..

All that remained was a bit of descabbing, and giving the lower wing section a proper scrub.

Brush, Ecover cleaning spray, brush, towel, and repeat.

Now none of my piccies of the Beast seem to give a clear impression of the project, so here's a Vid:

The bench below the route is part of the flake above. Yes you can now find this beauty, but most of the thugs I know are gentleman, and The Beast is a blue collar bar brawl; complete with gouging and lots of stamping.

Once clean and dry, and I'd had a cup of tea, it was time for the first proper working session. The initial 6-8m to the eagle's nest is a right wing fest, with minimal for the left limbs to grapple with. I fondled the moves but my feebleness prevented actual movement. However, with all the footholds spied, I pressed on. Pockets and gymnastics lead to the high board, and a long long rest if I get here on lead. The newly solidified section above is hand jams and splits, to the last bolt. Funky feet and arête moves push on into the runout, which just becomes unreasonable as the jugs kick in. I made all the moves post eagles nest, and am well chuffed.

This project has every element I love in routes, and if I never do another new route after this, it will be enough.

Watch this Space.

(I need chicken wing exercises folks)



Source: Hosey B

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Giveaway Project of the Month May
22 May 2013, 12:30 pm

Keeping in the region of Lost World, Here's the crack of Heaven's Cutting:





Its probably about 12m high and would suit as an aid or trad project. Good hard slate but mainly in the RP1-3 range, and requires a good wind to dry. Its 2 Levels above the suspended railway on the same side. Approach either as for Lost World, or via the Coat Hut Level through Heaven's rickety shelf.

Enjoy



Source: Hosey B

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Building a Bigger Anvil
1 June 2013, 4:17 pm



For Liquid Armbar, I built this training device.

For The Beast in Me, I felt Something bigger is required....





Its going to be fun beating myself up!

Source: Hosey B

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Minnesota Loon
2 June 2013, 7:24 pm

An empty Beacon meant I was surplus to requirements today. Instead I went back to Quack Crack Bloc and nailed the sit start to the shield on the right.

Minnesota Loon is about 6C+ and starts with the right hand side pull of Fat Duck Arête, and rather than a pinch, the left utilises an uppercut fist Jam.

Managed to get a vid from just after the starting move (typical amateur production I'm afraid..).

It looks like there is going to be a team of us going up here Tuesday Morning, so come along if you're at a loose end.

More hands to catch Ben as he attempts the Highball slab the merrier...

Source: Hosey B

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Checking in
4 June 2013, 9:03 pm

Got out today with Ben and Charlotte. It was good fun giving them a tour of Mymbyr blocs, with Happy Feet and Quack Crack providing much hilarity.

I'm finding that many of the problems I clawed my way up back in the day somewhat harder than I remembered. The Heel Keel in particular feels a lot harder than 6C and I need a third visit to knock out a full repeat.

I currently, therefore, should not be trusted with any of my current grading and please just repeat things that look pretty and decide for yourself.

So we started trying the wall to the right of Fat Duck Arête. Ben And Charlotte were giving it much blood and passion, but I got competitive. This resulted in Duck Life. Start off the obvious slopey rail and blast to the top via more slopey ledges. Probably 6A+ but as stated above, what do I know.

Contemplated the line of the bloc, but couldn't even transfer body weight onto the crux position.

Did my first set of 50 wide press ups tonight. It seems particularly hard to crawl on all fours after this activity.

Keep training!

Source: Hosey B

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First Blood
6 June 2013, 10:01 pm

First attempt at training with the Offwidth Machine today.

Its been christened "the coffee table" by the workshop, due to them utilising it as such as they restart the build of the Beacons Routing Roof (last time I store it there).

I've set the crack to 26cm (coincidentally the distance from my elbow to the base of my palm, for those of you playing along) which seems to give a non-mechanical but not too painful chicken wing.

First attempts were a little amusing..

However, by the end of the session I'd managed to complete a series of sets of 10 curls. Working both arms, first with both feet on and then with just one foot on the same side as the armbar. I'm painfully aware that I need to ease myself into this, as I have a history of funny bone issues and need to build up some skin.

Happy Training!

Source: Hosey B

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Twilight Shunt
10 June 2013, 5:05 pm

Went Billy no mates on the Beast last night. Due to child wrangling duties I did't get out the house until 1930, so the light was lovely (if fleeting). The main purposes of the session were to assess a top roping rig, make a kit list for the ascent, dial the top section and have a proper grind on the crux section. As such it was a success. Midges provided ample abuse and drive, I now know the numbers on the upper sections crux and I learnt lots about the crux section; "The Vice".

1) I managed all moves bar 1.5 or so, abet with multiple rests.

2) My upper body strength is now amply sufficient.

3) I'm only let down by a) leg flexibility, and b) leg power.

Thus topping out at 2245, I decided the following changes to the training plan.

1) Rest. the session completely funsted me.

2) Upper body regime can be reduced to some flesh conditioning in the Coffee table, and "climbing".

3) Need to get serious with the lower limb flexibility.

4) Put the poorest Miniwave I can find on a slab, and do some one legged squats.

Happy Training!

Source: Hosey B

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Giveaway of the Month - June
19 June 2013, 9:56 pm

Here is a Piccy of the Upper boulder field of Dyffryn Mymbyr, below Big Bad Bari. The overhanging fridge is Man like me, and the scoop to its right is this months givaway.A bit 3D and a good bit of fun, I never got round to pulling on seriously as the pull of Bad Bari was to strong...

Enjoy

Source: Hosey B

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Getting out, and Giveaway Project of the Month - July
12 July 2013, 10:20 am

This week has been one of sun, blue skies and heat. I've been psyched for my first red point on the Beast, but dragging a belayer to lost world is rather difficult in this heat. I was all set up to pop up with Wolf on Tuesday eve, but his work commitments got in the way so I was at a loose end. Did I mope about? yes, but knowing that a couple of my friends were up at cloggy slaying demons, I decided to try and join them. To get some climbing in I chose to  pop up the Pass, and mountaineer myself up. This was inspired by a similar trip I'd made about 10 years ago, some Facebook pics of Gambit climb, and a recommendation of Jammed Boulder Gully (Thanks Ug!).Didn't remember to take pics until I was in Cwm Uchaf however.

Crib y Ddysgl

The Boulders above Diffws ddwr

The view down Western Gully.



Llyn Glas from above a nice V groove on Crib y Ddysgl

Of course I didn't top Garnedd Ugain until everybody had headed off home, but the return trip down Gyrn Las was really enjoyable too..

The Spiky Gyrn Las



Pretty flowers, I'm sure someone know what sort....

Now the giveaway is in Cym Uchaf, just up the re-entrant from llyn Glas. sort of in-between a highball and a route, I'd bring a TR rig for the first visit to cut down on the luggage. Anyhoo, this buttress looks nice and interesting..

The second shot was from Western Gully. There's a small amount of bouldering here abouts, but the main attraction is the surrounding beauty. Enjoy.



Source: Hosey B

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Red point 1 : Hosey nil
21 July 2013, 10:01 pm

Well I've finally got round to tying on chancing my arm. Plus points are that the first two clips are unproblematic i'm strong on the moves to the point where I need to highstep. The negatives... I'm still not flexible unough, and its pointless returning until I am. I got quite down about this but at least it releases me to ignore it until i'm ready. I should go and enjoy some climbing elsewhere. I did go on to second my patient belayer on journey to the centre of the earth. However, midges dictated I didn't hang around and did so in my trainers, which provided some comedy. Logan has also killed the laptop,so this post is off my phone please forgive the awkward syntax. Better get back to stretching...

Source: Hosey B