[comPiler]

My New Coach
23 June 2011, 6:43 pm

Watching TV with Logan the other day I came across this:

I thought "they look cool" and later on that evening had a go..It might be because Logan's postman pat football is a tad squidgy, but these turned out to be a bit tricky, and have now been incorporated into my daily routine.

Forget Mark Twight - I have Sporticus!

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Block Talk
28 June 2011, 7:31 pm

Finally go round to doing the block again, as I must admit lack of motivation has made me ignore it for a couple of months.Managed 2 mins 15 secs,  which is 26 secs off my best, and 19 secs off what I consider acceptable, so I'll attack them again once a week. Sportacus press ups are going well and assisted roof beam pinch pull ups are continuing...

Best of all I've been lent 2 more Rock'n rollers!

The Beast Abides...

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

The Beast Abides - Diary of annoyance
8 July 2011, 5:39 pm

Sunday - My Climbing partner bails, as in his enthusiasm he forgot he hadn't checked in with the missus since 3 weeks of glastonbury odd jobs. Last minute trip to the cromlech boulders for the company, and pulled on a weekends worth of smeggy chalk.

Monday - Bought the kids a new ball which is less sqidgy. One hand on one hand off is harder, but both hands on is easier. Beginning to be able to hop.

Tuesday - Got the block down to 1 min 45 secs. Still feel weak so must move on to something else..

Wednesday - inverted squats. The Wyde boys are due for a tour and my foot is still niggling. The Offwidth volume at work is put to good use as an venue for foot jam physio / torture.

Thursday - Logan woke at five, next door's building work during the day prevented much cat napping, and tea to keep me from killing the kids, and their teething meant a 1am finish.

Friday - Set some nice boulders at the wall, Saw Ian's been busy in Twll Mawr. Excited to try it but feeling a bit territorial. It doesn't take much to make a tired 36 yr old act like a todddler.Good on him, hope he gets the grooves to the right done too.. and maybe leaves me some trad..

Here's to dry days and the time to enjoy them

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Tales of the Golden Monkey
14 July 2011, 9:24 am

Last evening was at last a chance to mainline some adventure. Adventure, like fire needs 3 main ingredients: A suitable band of adventurers, Suitable weather, and a suitable target.

The weather was warm and dry, Fraser Ball; father to wads, and cracker of obscene jokes was on hand to hold the ropes and destroy my belays, and at last I was revisiting Here.

With Fraser along I could approach the right Eye direct this time (this line was a bit damp last visit) and once through the tunnel we could tackle this:

This was another one of my "probably HVS" projects (the last one was Taith Mawr) that I thought would be a suitable jolly for me and Fraser. It turned out (as usual) to be a bit exciting and tricky. Proper good value, all in all. The sort of thinky, scary, body achey climbing I enjoy. Unlike the Midges that the humid evening invited out to eat us, reppellant left in the bags.....

Ho Hum, Here's the full Description of sorts:

Tales of the Golden Monkey E2 4c, 5c. 20m, 30m.

Named after This, But My memory prefered the cadence of golden to gold.

1. 20m 4c. Start Golgotha side right of the mouth of the skull. Scramble then climb dirct in to the right eye socket.

Follow the tunnel to the Twll Mawr side.

2. 30m 5c. Exit left looking out to find the groove round the corner. Climb this on small to diddy gear with much head scratching and muttering to a ledge, where a continuation groove above (staggered right) spits you out onto the tourist path.

Mark Dicken, Fraser Ball (13/7/11)



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Repeatedly banging your head against a wall..
15 July 2011, 9:24 am

..Occaisionally knocks through at least a small hole!The First of My Giveaway Projects has been completed.. Sort of.

Yes Black Hole Sun climbs the left arete rather than the Groove, as part of a bigger route.

But after a flurry of texts regarding the influence of the Giveaway, I received the text:

"Hmm go on then. Ian says thanks for the inspiration"

Nuff Said

Get on the GiveawaysEvery one a winner... Sort of.

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

The Gestation of an Elephant..
17 July 2011, 12:32 pm

I have just had the chance to give a final read through to a full paper copy of the North Wales Slate Guide.

Once more dilligent and awake fellows have done the same.....

The Printers Beckons!

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Giveaway Project of the Month - July
20 July 2011, 7:37 pm

Flushed with the success of a project being taken to completion, This month see's some thing a bit different.

You see most of these giveaways are surplus bounty, that would require a divorce and a gratis boarding school for me to complete in their entirity.

This month its something I'm quite keen (and Able) to do

Some of my more dangerous stalkers may remember this

Now The last winter has done its work and the Offwidth in question is prime for a quick abb, lever, brush and garden..

...then it would be ready.

Now I'm focussing on the Beast, I'm quite happy for it to go to a loving home.

Back left of the bay on the far right, once clean (or go au natural for the XS tick) approach by the Liquid Armbar Abb. At the Belay continue abbing to the base of the gully on the left looking in. Belay here. From here it will be 10m of easy slab and crack, followed by 30m of vert to overhanging snaking 7inches to body swallower.

Maybe if you were in the area Filming?

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

(personally) Significant Repeats!
28 July 2011, 5:32 pm

Liquid Armbar got its 2nd and 3rd Ascent this week from Mssrs Randall and Whittaker who both led, and confirmed its grade and quality. This brings the number of my routes that (to my knowledge) have had more than 1 repeat up to 5!

First a giveaway being taken up and then this within the same month!

Heady times indeed

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

The Collective Exhale..
5 August 2011, 4:47 pm

Its Gone to the Printers!

Available mid September - Slate Season!!!

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

New Shoes, Old Memories
8 August 2011, 8:06 pm

Saturday I got out climbing with Wolf, the joys of August meaning- It was my birthday at some point, so I was allowed more climbing time- The aforementioned birthday meant I had some new rock shoes to christen- It was August, so only Tremadog was dry.

Weeks of not doing much outside, and my wide week making me feel so out of shape I decided to give myself a slap and we stormed off to Zukator buttress to try the Zukator-Grasper connection. I don't know if it was the new boots or just the fatherhood drive kicking in, but I hadn't led E3 at Tremadog before, in fact my only clean E2 was Vector. However, I thought I should stop ducking and diving and take it on the chin.

It was similar on my first grit E3, Smear test at the roaches. Success came when I stopped mucking about and accepted the fall. I seriously thought it was too hard, but my mate had a camera, so I committed to the possibility of airtime and just flipping did it. No fall. In the bag. Done.  

History had found me on the Zukator-Grasper connection before. Back in 2004, I was out with a couple I knew, the lad was pretty handy and he led the 1st Zukator pitch. I remember thinking this was quite hard and quite bold, I opted to lead the Grasper 2nd pitch and subsequently fell off. All in all I was Quite knackered, and My intimidation by Tremadog extremes was untarnished. On the way home the couple had an almighty barney and I was Left in the car With the Young lady... The Gentleman off to solo at the cromlech. I took her to the quarries for a route to distract her, and Promptly cratered and got airlifted off.

So Yes this route seemed a good place to get some grit and take on some character.It went okay actually, starting proper technical, but with gear. Then followed some burl, less gear, then a rest. Gear.The hard bits above made me think. As did the lack of gear. Back to the Smear Test. Accepting what you can't change, accepting the consequences of your own actions. Take the step and move.I didn't remember much of the actual climbing from before, and now its still a mash of hold positions and tight focus on gear slots. But I succeeded. My First Tremadog  E3 pitch. I didn't fall off seconding the Grasper pitch either.

Thought it wise to skip the quarries afterward tho'

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Birthday Session
18 August 2011, 8:36 am

 To celebrate getting older I revisited an old project thats been on the go pretty much since I moved to North Wales

Its highball, but its also quite hard which was the main reason its holding out so long. That and its a bit of a pain to get to, hence I haven't visited for about 6 years.

How did I compare to my younger self?

Previous high point: 3 hand moves

Birthday highpoint: 5 hand moves. Crucially past all the eng6 moves and only 4 eng5 to the easy ground above.

Young skin only took 3 goes to get to this point too..

However, that was probably my weakness and inaccuracy. This time I got over 10 proper goes out the old pads. The Key advantage to my older frame is a proper core which just made things feel Easier.

I should have topped it that day, but suprise at finding myself so high, the solitary pad, and a mindblank on what my feet should be doing thwarted me.

Once the finger pads return and I can Find a spotter willing to drag an extra crashpad Its going to go down!

Its alright this getting older business.  



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Giveaway Project of the Month - August
22 August 2011, 7:13 pm

Big Trad one this month, and a good appetite whetter for the arrival of Llanberis slate.Whilst route checking for the aforementioned guide, I happened to spend rather a lot of time and 160m of static on the back wall of Twll Mawr.This is a mighty crucible of adventure, pioneered by Joe Brown himself.Any hoo, here's a snap shot:

My abb rope cuts across the steps of the Razors edge, the grey slab of the true finish is to the far left, and Taith Mawr skips beneath the overhangs in the top right. You may have noticed the overhanging dolerite arete just left of centre..

Here sweeping up the centre of the pic...

The green arrows are bolt belays placed by myself as means of assisting escape or rescue (and preserving my neck while exploring on abb). They rather lend themselves to a 3 pitches and a scramble direct up the back wall. Pitch one would seem possible between Bushmaster and Razors Edge. Pitch two is a 4c formality. Pitch three would be amazing...and appears to have sufficent weakenesses to allow the climbing (if not my belays) to be trad and bolt free.

I have held onto this rather, but the truth is its out of my league. try not to soil it.

Enjoy

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

The Beast in me
6 September 2011, 8:07 pm

The beast in meIs caged by frail and fragile barsRestless by dayAnd by night rants and rages at the starsGod help the beast in me

The beast in meHas had to learn to live with painAnd how to shelter from the rainAnd in the twinkling of an eyeMight have to be restrainedGod help the beast in me

Sometimes it tries to kid meThat it's just a teddy bearAnd even somehow manage to vanish in the airAnd that is when I must bewareOf the beast in me that everybody knowsThey've seen him out dressed in my clothesPatently unclearIf it's New York or New YearGod help the beast in me

I am currently defeated without ever returning to the Beast project. Its got into my mind "too hard... too hard" and I'm at a loss to disagree. This could be because the kids have limited my sleep to 5 hours a night for the last 4-5 days. It could be my cold. It could be the fact that I only get to climb outside once or twice a month despite living by the best climbing in Gods own country.

What would Mark Twight say?

Better still, what would

I'll be back, and I will climb it.....but I won't let it own me



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Boom! Back in my happy place!
16 September 2011, 7:44 pm

Basically there's few things that can balance me out quite like completing a project.

Wolf came with me today on a rush mission before Wales started to dissolve..

This is Craig y Giat a crag I named and developed in 2003, on the map its Bwlch y Dinas but there are a variety of scrappy crags in this trough and this one is a bit alright (and has a gate)

Direct up the middle to the hanging crack is Desire is Repressed Fire which I originally led with a friend 2 in the pocket to the right at E2 6a, but makes a good V2 highball. Above the rock on the right is Sharks Patrol these Waters, again led at E3 6a but V3 in pad speak, as long as a spotter's perched on the rock. The crag is bound on the left by Chemistry Crack, given VS by us but always soloed without pads, and involving some nifty arm bar work.

The area to the right of Chemistry Crack, between the dark patch and the ledge is now

Its not the Years, Its the Mileage an 8m V6. I first pulled on in 2003, having glimpsed the glimmer of a line, a gosamer of possibility threading up the wall from an obvious side pull just in from the arete. The problem was, although it definately existed, grasping it was like capturing a golden snitch made of razor blades. After a clean, ground up efforts were applied, tips ripped, and hair pulled out. Basically back then my fingers were strong, but my core was flaccid, and my feet were therefore not being effective enough at taking the weight off my skin, hence the rippage.

Side view:

Fast forward to my birthday this year and I finally got past this:The Biro hold is rather like holding the pointy end of a biro and using your thumb to gaston off the ball. This obvious masochism is eased by the equvilent of tape jamming gloves:

The Tape Thimble



This didn't work in 2003 (or 2004, 2005...) but something has happened... I may have got better.

Roll on the Beast

Big thanks to Wolf and Cinder the woof, who trudged all the way up this near vertical sea of sedge grass and got to pull on only once before the heavens opened... I owe you a crack at something out the shed





Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Giveaway Project of the Month - Belated September
2 October 2011, 9:19 am

Had mega busy week setting for the beginning of this Winter's Bouldering Aggregate for the Beacon, So a bit behind despite wandering round with the pic on my stick for the last couple of weeks...

Ho Hum, Behold Craig Ddaear Drwg:The rocks in front are a minor distraction, but there's highballs a plenty with a host of arêtes to test yourself on. Some terracing required.

To Find; Drive up the Clegir road from Llanberis and park in the second square cut bay on the right after Filmset. Follow the public footpath for 10m to a left fork, follow this for similar distance over the hill and try not to fall down Craig Ddaear Drwg.

Enjoy

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Giveaway Project of the Month - October
15 October 2011, 12:18 pm

Yipee! Llanberis slate has now been in the shops (although the first batch may have sold out by now - awaiting the slow boat from China) So expect the next few Giveaway's to be slate centric (not much change there) With Page References!

This slightly naff picture is looking at the bottom of Braich, namely the East wall and Vilcabamba (pages 96-97)

The Fin of rock that boasts Where Green ants Dream and is skirted around to gain Buffer in a Crackhouse is seporate from the adjoining level. various spills of slate debris, probably even from working times have dropped in the gap, forming a roof of sorts.

This giveaway is a through trip; I attempted it on several occasions as a single man of limited ties, and each attempt was thwarted by a drastic need for fresh underwear.

All my attempts were from the Buffer side, as the "Floor" of the chamber is higher at this end, thus removing the need to ascend on matter of unknown actuality.

"Floor" is a poor descriptor; more of a mezzanine or catwalk. The protracted tinkling under your feet soon actuates active bridging and allows some further entrance. It was the point where this elevator shuffling requires descent that I chose to retreat for more fragrant delicates.

One for a keen explorer

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Things that have made my Day
15 October 2011, 4:55 pm

Taking two of my boys out for a ride through the slate quarries, and not only was it full of people clutching the new guide..

Tim and Nick were on Hamadryad. First time I've ever seen someone on the back wall of Twll mawr who wasn't tied to me on a rope...

Seems like they were having Fun, and the Bastard Bush of Twll Mawr was living up to its name. No real seapage on the back wall at the mo' so its all up for grabs.

Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

Slateheads
17 October 2011, 10:55 am

I'm right chuffed with the new guide. It seems like a lifetime ago that a pint in the Gallt y Glyn brought me into the Ground up fold. Not only is it a thing of beauty, it gives me an opertunity to be extremly nerdy. Yes I'm a geek and like nothing more than some qualitative analysis of random trivia; in this case the Star ratings on the new guide.

Star ratings are initially arbitrarity applied be the authors (Pete, Simon and I) in relation to some control specimen (in this case the Dervish ***). this subjective round of applause is then glanced at by a crack cadre of nitpickers (the proof reading/ soundboarding team) who may dissagree / notice them.

So how to present my findings? Tables! (wrong data for graphs)

Ok lists, I'm not blog literate enough.

Basically I was wanting to see who saw and delivered the good routes, whose quests were of quality rather than cack.

Up first the Top ten of Slateheads with routes of three stars (or more)

Rank ][ Slate Head ][ No. of *** Routes

1 J Dawes 10

2 D Towse / J Redhead 8

3 P Williams 7

4 G Smith 5

4 N Harms 5

6 S Haston 4

7 C Phillips 3

7 M Crook 3

7 P Pritchard 3

7 J Sylvester 3

As you can see I've put Towse and Redhead together, as in the quarries they were joined at the hip anyway....

The next list is a biggy; The top 20 starred slate heads based on total stars awarded.

After the quantity of stars I've added in brackets this figure divided by the total no. of routes in the quarries that they've sired - a sort of average star rating....

Rank ][ Slatehead ][ Total no. of Stars (average star rating)

1 J Dawes 42 (2)

2 I Lloyd Jones 41 (0.64)

3 N Harms 39 (1.63)

4 D Towse / J Redhead 36 (2.77)

5 S Haston 35 (1.17)

5 P Pritchard 35 (1.59)

7 P Williams 28 (2)

8 M Crook 26 (1.3)

9 G Smith 25 (1.47)

10 M Raine 22 (1.38)

11 C Dale 20 (1.18)

12 C Phillips 18 (0.43)

13 C Parkin 16 (1.07)

14 C Davies 14 (0.82)

14 J Ratcliffe 14 (1.75)

16 B Wayman 13 (1.08)

16 P Hawkins 13 (1.08)

18 R Drury 12 (1.2)

18 J Sylvester 12 (2)

18 M Dicken 12 (0.5)

Rankings in italics are tied. Please note that all data collection and proccessing was fueled either by insomnia or coffee, so may contain some errors.

Make of it what you will....

Source: Hosey B

[SA Chris]

Where there is a tie, shouldn't those with a higher average be placed higher

Great lists.

[Fiend]

How many of ILJ's are actually worth stars and how many are actually just popular cos they are easy convenience sport climbing?? The Total/Average correlation says a lot there.

Good geekiness tho. Dawes the master of 80s slate AND 80s grit :D

[Pantontino]

How many of ILJ's are actually worth stars and how many are actually just popular cos they are easy convenience sport climbing?? The Total/Average correlation says a lot there.

Good geekiness tho. Dawes the master of 80s slate AND 80s grit :D

I never judge popularity as an indication of quality - look at Wizz Bang in Bus Stop quarry - one of the most popular routes in the quarries, but in my opinion: utter rubbish.

If any of Ian's routes got stars (and many did) they deserved them.

Great list Hosey - JR and Towse almost hit the 100% 3 star level. An impressive legacy!

[Hoseyb]

Cheers Guys.Things that caught my attention  are chummer's high hit rate (being selective and strong maybe?) and Haston's relatively low rating (He seemed to have many personal adventures that might not appeal to others (like Cliff) and some would be classics that fell down.. )


I only owanted to get myself in a list of slateheads really 

[comPiler]

A Host of Stars..
21 October 2011, 11:36 am

As the last post of geekery seemed favourably received, I thought I'd allow my self some more.

(that and the rain, and the fact I haven't climbed outside yet this month)

Three Star Routes by their areas!

Bus stop

• Fool's Gold
• Forsinain Motspur
• Geordie Warcry
• Scarlet Runner

Australia

• Looning the Tube
• Big Thursday
• Wish You were Here
• G'day Arete
• The Serpent vein

Dali's

Holy Holy Holy

California

• California Arete
• Wedlock Holiday
• Spider Pants
• Central Sadness
• The Big Sur
• Waves of Inspiration
• Stairway to Silence

Serengeti

• Seamstress
• Seams the Same
• The Medium
• Heading the Shot

Never Never land

• Never Never Land
• Short Stories

Monkey Bar area

Patellaectomy

Twll Mawr

• Coeur de lion
• Blockhead
• The Quarryman (****)
• The Fire Escape
• The Wonderful world of Walt Disney

Lost World

• The Wall Within
• Dinorwig Unconquerable

Colossus Wall

• Shazalzabon
• Jack of Shadows
• Light and Darkness
• Big Wall Party
• Major Headstress
• Ride the Wild Surf
• Great Balls of Fire
• Colossus

Rainbow Slab

• Pull My Daisy
• Chewing the Cwd
• Released From Treatment
• Naked Before the Beast
• Rainbow of Recalcitrance
• Bungles Arete
• Poetry in Pink
• The Very Big and the Very Small
• Raped by Affection
• Cystitis by Proxy
• Splitstream
• Stiff Syd's Cap
• Prick up Ureas
• Cwms the Dogfish

Rainbow Walls

• Vermin on the Ridiculous
• Chitra
• The Untouchables
• The Mau Mau
• SilverShadow
• True Clip
• German School Girls
• Spong (is good for you)
• L'allumette
• Manatese
• The Dark Half
• Heatseeker

Vivian

• Dawes of Perception
• Bobby's Groove
• Soap on a Rope
• Dope on a Rope
• Bathtime
• Gin Palace
• Comes the Dervish
• Flashdance
• Flashdance/Belldance

Glyn Rhonwy

The Bone People

This list includes:

• Only 2 routes younger than 15 years old
• Only 14 routes of E3/f7a or below
• Only 1 route with real objective danger
• Only 10 routes I've done (4 more I've failed at)
• 31 routes I really should do (without a risk of death, or requiring a hero transplant)

Looks like I'd better get cracking..



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

An Alternative List
21 October 2011, 12:23 pm

After much digesting of the new Llanberis Slate guide, I'm on the cusp of some form of enlightenment:

• I have been far too busy looking for unclimbed rock when the climbed bits are quite good
• I may have a diferent view on what makes a good slate experience...

Traditional views on what makes a good slate route:

• Strong line
• Memorable moves
• Reliable protection
• Trustworthy rock
• Wanting to climb that route again

In my quests and foray's into the slate realm I've been drawn to a slightly skewed criteria:

• Memorable setting
• Magnetic line
• Guarenteed adventure
• An intimate psychological experience
• A Good Name

Therefore, here is my alternative slate list:

• Act Naturally (p77) Still my favorite VS.
• See you Bruce (p81) My first E3 lead (back when it only had 2 bolts).
• Big Thursday (p56) Inspected but not started yet (still toying with a solo like Buffer).
• The Serpent Vein (p97) A memorable belay duty.
• Dali Mirror (p102) Sandbag-tastic.
• California Arete (p119) best experienced in solitude.
• Fruit of the Gloom (p122) an equal balance of desire and revulsion.
• Taith Mawr (p172) (trumpet blowing alert) a proud moment.
• Bushmaster with the Scorpion finish (p172) all that is good about Joe Brown routes.
• Josy Puss (p181) the line! the line! (still lacking courage).
• Rainbow of Recalcitrance (p203) one day..
• Come inside (p225) again, a good solo experience.
• Liquid Armbar (p290) (trumpet blowing alert) distilled sweat in a jewel of an arena
• Bring me the head of Don Quixote (p299) (trumpet blowing alert) I didn't give it stars in the guide as it's specialist enjoyment, but a stout adventure in another surreal hole.
• Giddy Variations on a Theme (p304) less a line, more a desire.

Five left to do



Source: Hosey B

[comPiler]

The Curse for a New Router
25 October 2011, 3:23 pm



Is ContentmentThose of you waiting for an update on The Beast..It may not be forthcoming this winter, as Wales is doing its thing, and it abides in the shade sporting a heather and bilberry headdress. However, its not forgotten and it certainly would be a suitable coda for the present.

Bouldering, on the other hand,  is another receptacle of seafood entirely, and Elidir is not far from my thoughts..

Source: Hosey B