UKBouldering.com

Partheon Shot Flake (Read 28801 times)

Yoof

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 183
  • Karma: +14/-0
#25 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 20, 2011, 09:31:48 pm


 for an evening's soloing Partheon Shot, Equilibrium, Captain Invincible, Braille Trail

For a second I was like  :o
and the I read the next three words.

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5414
  • Karma: +246/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#26 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 20, 2011, 10:42:08 pm
I agree the legal implications of the flake ripping after gluing are massive and alone a reason for not doing it, never mind the stuff about gluing grit.

More than placing a bolt or a peg on a limestone cliff Kingy? If it were me who glued it back on knowing that it could be terminal for it to fail in a fall I'd become a very anxious sleeper.

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1683
  • Karma: +77/-2
#27 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 20, 2011, 10:51:56 pm
Modern bolts don't rip out if they are placed correctly in good rock and are not too old. With pegs, I think its accepted that if you clip it, you accept the risk of it failing and therefore there is not perceived to be any comeback on the placer of the peg even if its not a great placement, although I guess this issue has probably not come up too many times, if at all. I suppose the same logic would apply to a glued trad placement although the crucial difference would be that you couldn't necessarily tell from inspection whether it was natural or glued. With a peg, its obvious that its a certain type of protection that u make a judgement call to rely on.

I guess its not clear cut though, it was only a thought. I agree that I would rather not glue the thing back on personally.

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5414
  • Karma: +246/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#28 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 20, 2011, 10:59:43 pm
Fair comment. Not something I'd want to take responsibility for either.

fatdoc

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4093
  • Karma: +100/-8
  • old and fearful
    • http://www.pincheswall.co.uk
#29 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 20, 2011, 11:01:34 pm
 :agree: i meant agree with Andy.. thread so hot I lost my slot on the  :agree:

post a pic up... did it all come off??

way way back in the day I TRed PS over a few days... after the Johnny vid, before it was done.

I could do all the moves eventually,... I'm 5ft 7 and was jumping full on to latch the flake. No way I could lead it, the top rock over felt waaaay hard... me scared... me gave up. I thought the flake would snap with a fall and gear behind it. I knew I'd fall onto it.

This was decades ago, so no doubt people lock into the flake these days, or did. That leap onto the flake was IIRC one of the most awesome moves ever... ( and the vid of Seb  still utterly amazing)  if  now that's now the default move and there's no gear left it's gonna be even more of an iconic route seen from all the lower aspect of the valley!

Will Hunt

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8017
  • Karma: +634/-116
    • Unknown Stones
#30 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 01:52:32 am
Definitely leave it as it is. The reasons have already been said by others. I think its funny how PS was compared to Indian Face as a means to justify a repair. Well now they are even more alike in that a flake holding crucial gear has been ripped off and not replaced.
This whole affair can be a lesson to all in the inherently dangerous and often unpredictable nature of climbing. I seem to remember being puntered a while ago for suggesting that PS may not be a totally safe route...

GraemeA

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1877
  • Karma: +80/-6
  • FTM
    • The Works, it's the Bollocks
#31 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 09:33:49 am
Do a "Si Jones Stag Do" with it on whoever is getting wed next.

Eddies

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1245
  • Karma: +52/-6
#32 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 09:40:38 am
Present it to Seb and move on.
Seb already has it. He just needs a little help to decide what to do with it. I think the majority vote on here is not to glue it back on though. The mantlepiece is a much better place for this particular piece of history.

Its in good hands and I totaly agree, Sebs mantlepiece is a good resting place for the shipwreck of a flake... Amen
Im suprised it lasted this long

David S

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 255
  • Karma: +4/-0
#33 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 10:22:09 am
Personally I think it should be given to Dunney.

Krank

Online
  • ****
  • junky
  • VIVA LA CHAPEL
  • Posts: 951
  • Karma: +38/-3
  • Its meant to be hard
#34 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 10:26:37 am
 :agree:

chummer

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 582
  • Karma: +26/-2
#35 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 10:35:09 am
Do a "Si Jones Stag Do" with it on whoever is getting wed next.

but wouldn't that mean putting a bolt in it Graham?  :shrug:

GraemeA

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1877
  • Karma: +80/-6
  • FTM
    • The Works, it's the Bollocks
#36 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 10:41:25 am
That is correct

chummer

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 582
  • Karma: +26/-2
#37 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 10:57:32 am
 :o  .......    :punk:

dave

  • Guest
#38 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 11:02:56 am
Personally I think it should be given to Dunney.

Get it mounted on a plaque and put it up for charity auction. John and Seb can bid for it.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13474
  • Karma: +682/-68
  • Whut
#39 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 11:37:02 am
Or both glued on to the outside of RE which would surely make it more fun.

I quite like the idea of fixing the Parthian flake properly with threaded rods  :shrug:

simes

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 295
  • Karma: +18/-3
    • http://www.simes303.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/index.htm
#40 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 11:49:35 am
Personally I think it should be given to Dunney.
:agree:

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29285
  • Karma: +635/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#41 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 11:50:40 am
deffo go to Dunney.

I would get it to Antiques Roadshow to get the value appraised though.

simes

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 295
  • Karma: +18/-3
    • http://www.simes303.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/index.htm
#42 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 11:51:51 am
How did it come off anyway?

Stubbs

  • Guest
#43 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 11:55:57 am
Someone was using it to tension a slackline across the valley...

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#44 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 12:00:39 pm
Someone was using it to tension a slackline across the valley...

 :lol:

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#45 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 12:07:24 pm
stick it on at the works or we could create a lime/grit cocktail in parisellas

Wipey Why

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1403
  • Karma: +52/-0
#46 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 01:21:53 pm
Personally I think it should be given to Dunney.
:agree:
:agree:

I think gluing it back on is fraught with potential problems.

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5791
  • Karma: +624/-36
#47 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 01:25:32 pm
Someone was using it to tension a slackline across the valley...

Genius  :lol:

al123

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 161
  • Karma: +2/-3
#48 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 01:34:11 pm
Someone was using it to tension a slackline across the valley...
  :2thumbsup:
i heard it was the anchor for the proposed zip line across the valley?

Bolter

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 27
  • Karma: +9/-0
  • Vertical gardener
#49 Re: Partheon Shot Flake
June 21, 2011, 03:40:05 pm
I have now solved the probelm by crushing it with a lump hammer. Having just snorted a line and done a few laps on my cellar boards I can vouch for it's potency so have decided to sell it off  - a gram at a time - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18037.0.html


 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal